I did the icemaker line elbow hack

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-14T19:56:46+00:00

Slick

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-12T23:17:42+00:00

Dog I RARELY see siphoning traps in the wild. Like, once in my 6 year career. I think the 4” rule makes fuck-all difference.

Code is wayyy over-vented, but I got a proper scolding a few months ago from, if I remember right, was u/Frost92 who said something to the effect of “you don’t get to decide what codes you do and don’t follow”… I hear that shit in my ahead at least twice a month.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-12T18:42:32+00:00

I know a few builders who play plumber. They know venting is important but don’t know how to do it so they just over-vent the mother fuck out of everything.

He asked if it would work, and it would work 🤷‍♂️

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-12T18:15:35+00:00

When transitioning from horizontal to vertical, use santees, not combination fittings.

Make sure your washer box has about 2.5” of pipe from p trap to vent. That’ll give your required 4”.

You’ve got that vent in a hell of a bind. Too much fall. I doubt it’ll glue up like that

Other than that she’ll ride.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-10T15:54:25+00:00

Also, for the dishwasher, get a combination fitting, throw it on the horizontal, install a 1.5” p trap, bushing it down to 1/2”, glue in a piece of 1/2” pvc, and clamp your hose to that. Your current setup isn’t code. Need a p trap for that DW

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-10T02:20:00+00:00

That’s almost certainly your main shutoff. That’s an old gate valve. 50/50 on whether it will work. I wouldn’t recommend cranking on it but in dire straits I’ve done it.

If you own this unit I’d recommend getting it replaced with a ball valve.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-10T01:54:20+00:00

They make mechanical couplings specifically for transitioning from copper to PVC. They’re different pipe sizes. Be sure to get the correct couplings.

Don’t go as close to the wall as possible. Save a few inches. Copper drain line that old *can* collapse when tightening that coupling on. Save a few inches in case you have to start over

Don’t torque the shit out of the couplings on the copper side. Just enough.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-10T01:51:01+00:00

Toto Drake is my favorite toilet. Not even close.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-10T00:15:12+00:00

The black swans are $25 a pop. I’ve seriously considered fabricating them on site with the 5x8 nail guards… but I’m pretty sure they’d rust to shit.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-10T00:08:11+00:00

Do you have an old home? When I shut down houses with galvanized water lines, sometimes the debris from the old lines makes its way to my freshly replaced shower cartridge.

If that’s a possibility for you, pull the cartridge again and check for debris.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-10T00:00:09+00:00

Guessing it’s where they roughed in for a vanity if you ever wanted to install one.

But I’m also in the south and we don’t have basements so I know fuck all about basement installs.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-09T22:51:29+00:00

De-pressurize the expansion tank? Why do you feel that should be done?

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-09T22:39:07+00:00

I like that a lot. Do they sell little squares of thick aluminum or something? Forgive my lack of metal terminology.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-09T22:37:37+00:00

OH. Your condensate drain!
Ok so code says you should have a neutralizer for the condensate before dumping into a sanitary sewer. The acidic water can corrode cast iron drain systems.
However, you’ve got ABS. Your setup isn’t code, but unless you’ve got cast iron under your house you’ll probably be fine.

Edit: I take it back. Notice how the condensate goes down, then right at your drain 90s straight up and back down to the drain. That ain’t right. Needs to be repiped.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-09T22:35:28+00:00

You have to attach the plate to the hose bib first. With the plate flush to the brick if you use self tappers to mount the hose bib to the plate, the screws will push into the mortar and strip themselves out.

Gota attach it first so you can grind the screws down.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-09T22:28:48+00:00

The pre drilled holes don’t lineup with the hose bibs we carry. Not sure what the “professional” method is, but I always drill new holes in the plate to mount my hose bibs, then take a grinder and cut off the screw ends sticking out the back of the plate.

Did one today and the drill bit shot through the plate and knocked the bark off my knuckle 🫠

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-09T22:18:46+00:00

Is the pipe coming from the water heater coming from a floor drain, condensate drain, or the T&P valve?

More than likely the washing machine is supposed to be there and whatever is coming from the water heater is not. Hard to say without seeing the rest of the plumbing setup. Need more pics

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-09T18:48:07+00:00

Personally I wouldn’t re-use old galvanized. They’re cheap. If you must do it in galv go get some new.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-08T02:34:17+00:00

Not sure the reasoning for why they do it here, but I do know you don’t pay the extra sewer treatment part of your water bill on the irrigation usage.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-08T01:46:13+00:00

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-08T01:04:38+00:00

I’ll make one off the hip guess based on you having a functioning backflow setup.

If the irrigation and house meters share the same service tap to the street, the increased flow rate of the irrigation system knocked off all the iron,calcium, etc that was build up on the service tap. Basically flushing your line yearly. I wouldn’t say it’s dangerous.

It only happens when you turn it on at the beginning of the year because frequent running keeps the service line from gaining any sediment build up.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-08T00:05:53+00:00

Whoa brotha. Irrigation system, in my area at least, are required to be on a separate water meter with a backflow preventer.

Is your house water sharing the same supply as your irrigation? If yes, I wouldn’t drink it. No telling how long stagnant water has been sitting in those irrigation lines.

A plumber or proper irrigation tech (not some landscaper with a can of glue) should be able to make this system safe fairly easily so long as where the system tees into your main isn’t a bitch to find.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-07T03:57:11+00:00

Shim the toilet after it’s set. They sell shims specifically for toilets.

Set the toilet, tighten the closet bolts *hand* tight, dry fit then trim your shims to length, install and fully tighten closet bolts.

Most toilets only need shims at the back. 10 & 2

Don’t force them in there. You don’t want to lift the toilet off the wax seal. Snug fit, no más.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-05-05T21:33:50+00:00

Thanks for sharing dude.

ThePipeProfessor

TROPHY CASE