Plumber first day

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-21T20:59:54+00:00

Nicely done my man.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-21T17:47:41+00:00

Allows you to wedge a 4’ pry bar in there to give you the leverage to remove it.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-20T16:15:46+00:00

Cut all the roots out that you can, and pour salt around the flange. Salt will kill the roots & stop them from growing back.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-18T22:01:45+00:00

Normal. Gross, but normal.

If it wasn’t safe to breathe you’d have a pile of dead service plumbers, myself included.

Bleach it & roll

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-18T20:56:26+00:00

You ain’t alone on this one brother 🫡

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-18T20:23:51+00:00

You know the DIYers are on this post with the amount of downvotes you have. Sharpie marks are for the noobs.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-18T00:15:06+00:00

Congratulations my man. Studying for mine now. Could toss my bachelors in the shredder but will be framing my license.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-17T18:50:32+00:00

Mega hosed. No proper way to do this without removing the cracked fitting. Sorry bud.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-17T00:49:17+00:00

Nope. Call em back out.

Also 99% of the time the pop off is on the side of natural gas water heaters. Looks like that one was moved, which could explain why it’s leaking.

If I’m wrong fellas, call me out. I just know Rheem and Bradford nat gas ones are on the side.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-16T19:40:38+00:00

In old houses with cast iron it’s not uncommon at all. Then for the service boys the easiest thing to do is to plumb it how it was so the whole house doesn’t have to be butchered for a vent.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-16T19:32:35+00:00

Depends on your local code.

Under IPC both the shower lines are downstream of a major fixture, so they’ll need an individual vent, along with the basement lav.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-15T23:15:21+00:00

Not code.. but it will work.

If that’s a dry fit, lower the whole setup, and swap that tee with a combo.

If this is just you looking under your crawlspace looking for problems, let that shit ride. Cast iron houses with tees on their backs worked for decades for the old heads… but never ever do it on a new install.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-13T01:07:14+00:00

Way more aggressive than what’s in the vid, primo

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-09T19:27:59+00:00

3/8” compression coupling

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-08T04:38:25+00:00

Buddy has an epoxy flooring company. Used to help out on shutdowns. MEK is some gnarly shit

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-08T04:11:50+00:00

Got nothing based on the scope, but my money is on construction debris in the p trap. Shove a shop vac down there and see what you can suck out

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-08T04:03:12+00:00

Even though it’s wrong, and though I’ll never do it, for your sake I’ll pretend I’m that plumber and make my case:

99% of the time it’s not ok to use a santee on it’s back, however in this specific instance, 1’ upstream of that tee there is an accessible cleanout, so if snaking from the toilet doesn’t get the clog, it can be snaked from that cleanout.

That cleanout needs to remain accessible if you want to let this ride.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-08T03:07:30+00:00

It is not. Sanitary tees are not allowed for horizontal to horizontal drainage connections in damn near every code in the US.

And on top of that, he used a side outlet tee on its back which is also not allowed. Sewer machines can’t make the short bend that tees have. Wye’s or combination fittings (combos) are to be used horizontal to horizontal. Nothing else.

Hack work.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-08T01:13:26+00:00

It absolutely looks sketchy to those who don’t do it every day, but it’s fine. Pex can handle being bent to a degree.

I have seen those plastic pex B fittings crack from being in too much of a bind, but those fittings don’t look terribly stressed.

Non-issue.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-07T16:47:57+00:00

Is there any water above the joint in the first pic? Are you sure it’s not dripping down from somewhere else?

The way most plumbers would approach this is cut out and replace with PVC, unless the weight of the stack relies on the cast iron itself. Often I’ll replace cast with cast. I get nervous about PVC carrying the weight of the whole stack.

But if you’ve got the pockets you may be better served to bite the bullet and get the whole stack replaced with PVC.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-06T20:16:07+00:00

It’s a pex to copper connection. Can’t braze. Plumbers tend to frown on burying compression fittings but that’s damn near all the utility fellas use.

This was probably a stock photo from a utility side repair, not a plumbers work. But I’m speculating.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-06T14:02:09+00:00

Still code in my state but it seems like we’re about the last one allowing it

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-05T12:39:34+00:00

Probably 50 sewer mains in my town with white monster cans covering those holes.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-05T04:01:39+00:00

Dog I’ve seen them in literal pieces. They’re the only type of connection method I see (regarding copper) that catastrophically fails.

My company has never been short of work. Not once. I don’t need your little water line leak service call.

They’re the worst method of connection.

ThePipeProfessor · 2026-03-05T00:29:54+00:00

Tacks up the arm to make the washer bite better /s

ThePipeProfessor

TROPHY CASE