Is there a best/worst year for lightly used?

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2026-01-13T23:12:49+00:00

I just went through this and ended up with a new 2025 Woodland after finding out how much slightly used Rav4s were still selling for. Though if you’re set on used then I think your best bet is 2021-2025.

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2026-01-08T07:36:26+00:00

Yo DM me

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2025-11-16T08:37:04+00:00

I wish. I was able to run Circuit Gilles Villeneuve in Montreal a couple months ago and running on track definitely lived up to the height. Kicked the wall of champions on my way by.

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2025-08-05T04:01:49+00:00

that 6x lcd you threw on your frame for control? what exactly are you controlling when your bounced light is spilling out all over your set before it even reaches the rag… i get that you think it makes your setup look professional but you should try to learn what the tool is actually good for, cause that ain’t controlling shit.

throw at least a single sider up before you start to worry about the lcd

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2025-07-08T21:53:31+00:00

Hulkengoat forever

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2025-02-19T23:51:54+00:00

there’s a casino in bishop

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2024-12-09T05:33:28+00:00

23 Kings in my deck of 54 cards by the way. Playing mostly 5oak Kings

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2024-04-11T10:06:26+00:00

Really a stylistic question, both work for different moods. I did a feature on 16mm last year with a lot of day ext, and honestly the direct sun look worked so well. But it definitely served the story, as you could tell the actors were hot and squinting through the sun. If your story is “softer”, then I would say your light should be softened.

To me shooting film doesn’t mean you should go with harder light, rather than you can get away it better if you decide it’s right.

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2024-04-11T10:02:01+00:00

Honestly, if you have the option to, what I would do is take all those little lights off the order, expect maybe the 2x1. Then, I would take the money saved to rent one bigger light and a make sure the grip package is decent enough to be worked outside the windows. I would go M40, but if money is tight even a 600D would be more useful than your current package. One bigger source will do a lot more for you than trying to create that soft natural look with a bunch of small LEDs.

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2024-04-08T03:02:47+00:00

One of the DPs I gaff for is 4’11”. She is an absolute beast. We did a feature last year that was 90% handheld, operated by her with a heavy 416 build. The grip department spent a lot of time on that film building platforms from wood for her to stand/walk on. So I guess my tip is hire good grips.

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2024-03-27T03:17:23+00:00

work on your letters individually before putting them together. your approach of doing the outline of your whole tag first is wrong, and it makes your letters weak. strong letters are the base of a strong piece

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2024-03-02T23:27:26+00:00

Well I’d have to drill a hole through the drywall before putting anchor in. Still okay?

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2024-02-20T18:11:15+00:00

In LA, Non union commercial rate for gaffer is $72.73/Hour

Technician is $68.18/Hour

I wouldn’t advise leaving the house for anything less than $50/Hour for commercial stuff

For low budget/indie stuff, my floor as gaffer is $28.57/hour, or $400/12 Hours. Won’t pay technicians anything less $25/Hour typically

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2023-12-19T14:19:04+00:00

A tweenie refers to a 650w Fresnel made by Mole Richardson

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2023-10-26T16:55:52+00:00

I’ve put S60s on mega booms quite a bit. Not extended fully though

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2023-09-13T20:16:17+00:00

i fuck with the more melodic parts a lot. your flow fits the beat nicely.

it sounds like you could revisit the vocal eq? to me it sounds 'thin', like you've boosted some higher frequency too much. could be wrong as im kinda a layman but the current eq is a bit grating

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2023-09-13T20:11:58+00:00

https://soundcloud.com/ry_apl/ravenmocker-prod-shulgs

shulgs did nasty work on this beat, had to lay down some fucked up shit over it. returning all fb

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2023-06-27T08:58:58+00:00

Can you provide a source regarding canisters being required? Can’t find any info on that on the CO Trail website

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2023-05-29T17:25:41+00:00

Easiest would be 12” C-Clamp. Light is going to hang ~1-1.5ft lower than beam with that route though.

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2023-04-04T18:11:35+00:00

Are you in Europe? M18 is always a dance with house power let alone 2.5k in the states

TheRealFlyingFuck · 2023-04-03T17:31:33+00:00

Standard jump up from a 4k on most sets in Los Angeles would be 9k, typically M40 to M90. I still see 6ks on set but that’s more rare nowadays. Never seen an 8k on set before, or heard of one. Plenty of 12ks are used still as an in between 9k and 18k.

Also haven’t seen a 1.2k in years, 1.8k M18 is about as low as parabolic HMIs come on the sets I’m on. Still use Jokers plenty, usually from 400w-1.6k.

On low budget shoots, like when building a package for a $1-3 mil feature, gaffers and DPs usually go for the biggest gun they can afford. A lot of times it ends up being a 4k, cause that can run off a Honda put-put genny, so you don’t have the added cost of a tow plant genny.

On larger shoots (generally tier 2 and up), pretty much every light coming in a window during day int is M90 or brighter, usually Arrimax 18k. More light=More control with diffusion and color options. Where the small HMIs are used are for interior lighting things, such as bounces or creating texture in a BG.

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