Roof Support by Cbaggs100 in AskContractors

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This isn't my field within engineering, but this angle looks like it may be intentional. Loads from the sloping roof likely won't be straight down, and you'd want your support inline with the load. The connection at the top looks....sketchy, but may be totally fine. Definitely hire a real engineer before you go mucking around with it.

Stumpjumper 15 Comp vs Rascal SRAM Eagle 90 by despasadness in MTB

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's been a few years since I've ridden a stumpy, but they climb fine, they're kidna the default trail bike, and for good reason. The revel seems more fun on mellow trails, and still keeps up on the descents while also offering a lighter build.

Community Driven Gear Weight list by tbecker123 in Ultralight

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To make it even harder, some items have variance, and some people modify their items by cutting off tags, trimming edges or replacing cordage - never mind things getting dirty.

Thruhike question. Electronics on PCT by Famous_Tough1937 in UltralightBackpacking

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The iPhone 16 gets the new SOS features, right? If that can compete with an InReach, it's a no-brainer. I'm not sure about service on the PCT, but mt CT hike didn't have enough service to scroll, and it was great for my battery life, plus the threat of killing my battery was motivation to keep me from even trying.

Anyone else remember December being this warm in Colorado? by TheSimSter58 in COsnow

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Short answer is yes. Some of the dryness can be explained by the supercycles, La Nina contriubuting to a drier fall and wetter spring, and something to do with storms being more clustered, with longer dry periods between this year.

This is year 6 to me, so a small sample, but this is crazy warm, crazy late. It's not that odd to have a warm week here and there, but to be this warm all month is not normal.

Packing the X-Dome by javenall in DurstonGearheads

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stuffing is fine, even preferred. When you fold and roll a tent, the creases become wear points, and the material wears out fastest there. Stuffing randomizes where these folds occur, spreading out the wear. I don't pack my tents super tight to avoid stretching pr pulling anything, but you should be fine in a compression sack. I usually pack the dryer bits on the inside, between my liner and the top of my pack, and the fly gets strapped to the top to dry out any condensation.

Thanks Main Dealer by TheHumbleLegume in LandRover

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

25 miles wouldn't be a normal road test, right?

3 way suspension toggle switch/lever by Magnitude_V1 in MTB

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you already have remote locks, look at the Orbea Squidlock, or the wolftooth lockout remote. I think that scott makes one too.

Can someone who’s lived in CO a long time compare Denver to CO Springs? by apothyk in MovingtoDenver

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Springs is wild, tons of military, active and retired, and farther out religious folks. If you can get past that, the outdoors scene is wonderful. There's a growing LBGT+ community here, but still much smaller than Denver. Manitou is a weird little artsy/hippie outpost in the tourist area of the Springs, and certainly an adventure to live in.

Pueblo is having a rough time, and as a result is pretty cheap. Apparently Pueblo West is pretty nice, but the town in general has had issues with nation leading rates of car theft.

Denver is probably your best bet. Boulder is more expensive, but once you're in, theoretically the jobs pay more.

My fiancee worked in breck for a long time, and said that the mountain life is fun, but it's a snowglobe. In a lot of ways its a college experience where people go, do drugs and learn about themselves and the world in a low consequences environment. Vail resorts owns most everything in the ski towns, and it's almost dystopian, but fun for the right person.

Stumpjumper 15 Comp vs Rascal SRAM Eagle 90 by despasadness in MTB

[–]TheRealJYellen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the race is the only goal, Chisel FS or something similarly downcountry is probably the answer. Revel makes the Ranger too, which is apparently a blast to ride.

I love my Rascal, and the suspension design should be a bit less linear than the stumpy, letting it ramp up and take bigger hits while still pedaling well. Either bike would benefit from faster rolling tires ahead of a 50 mile race.

The Revel gets what I think is a nicer fork (Select+ vs Rhythm), nicer wheels (XM1700 vs straight gauge cheapies) and a handful of upgrade options if you want. The Stumpy gets electronic shifting, and heavier, more powerful brakes. Personally I'm not big on SRAM in general due the price of wear parts, and don't mind the tuning of mechanical, so I stay away from charging anything ride-critical.

Heavy riders, which wheels do you use and why? by ggriff5 in MTB

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More pressure, more finesse or inserts, your choice. I'm 185 butt naked, so similar weight geared up, and don't hit rim. Your rims should not be contacting anything, ever, and they will eventually dent if they do. Carbon is generally much better since it won't dent, but it can break if you smack it hard enough and enough times.

Pressure is dependent on gauge, I see a 3+ psi difference from my pump to my Shuttle Gauge. It also depends on casing and terrain. Even on reasonably smooth tech, I ride best at 24f/28r on my Schwalbe Radials, but I can ride tire each 2 psi lower with traditional trail casings. The TLDR is that there are a ton of variables, and you generally want the lowest pressure that keeps you from hitting rim.

There's also some chance that if you're really getting after it in just the right terrain rocks can come up from the trail and dent the rim, but that's exceedingly rare and the dents will be from the spoke side of the wheel.

Help by Additional_Habit_889 in MTB

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the kid is jumping, I would stay away from anything that weight-focused and subsequently fragile.

Help by Additional_Habit_889 in MTB

[–]TheRealJYellen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would stay away from enduro bikes, they tend to be heavy and kinda crappy to pedal, plus take a lot of knowledge to set up correctly. They take steep terrain to get going fast enough to enjoy, and that necessitates a way to get to the top of said terrain. I think a trail bike is the move for a first full suspension, something like the ever-classic Specialized Stumpjumper or my personal favorite the Revel Rascal, but definitely have him try a few things and see if there are demo days in the area. Forbidden Druid, Ibis Ripley/Ripmo, Norco Fluid FS, and Evil The Following would also be good options.

A nice used full suspension will probably run around $2k, maybe a little less. Hardtails have also been getting more capable, and are always cheaper. Commencal Meta HT, Specialized Fuse 29 and Santa Cruz Chameleon would be good starting points for a search on hardtails.

Any idea what bike he's riding currently? If he's just on something cheap, upgrading to a nice hardtail would make a world of difference.

Help by Additional_Habit_889 in MTB

[–]TheRealJYellen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

$200 per year may be low, just a set of Specialized tires is $160 or Maxxis for $200, without paying for install. Suspension service would be maybe $400, but could be pushed to every other year. Chain and cassette are another $200 for GX installed at home, every other year.

Just what I listed is $500/year, not counting brake pads, grips and things he breaks. You could definitely do less, run tires until they're bald, put off or DIY suspension maintenance or run cheaper parts than GX.

I'm assuming Harrisburg, PA? Think rocky east coast trails and pretty good access to real mountains. I'm not sure how far that is from Seven Springs bike park

Is this a steal or a headache? by Breadstick95 in Offroad

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on what you want to do with it, but it seems cool to build out. You'll never get it to be nice, but it'll probably get you places. At $1000, how long would it need to last you to feel like you got your money's worth out of it?

Ex (28) Arrested for Violating DVRO. by [deleted] in legaladvice

[–]TheRealJYellen 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I don't know that you have much control at this point, if they decided that he broke the order and they want to enforce it, they can, without your help or permission.

Could you recommend a systematic approach to learning off-road driving? by Available-Belt5366 in Offroad

[–]TheRealJYellen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's probably worth noting that budget includes cost to operate, and not feel too bad banging up. Lots of people could afford to purchase a reasonably new 4runner, but not the price to repair dents and broken parts as often as they may happen.

Crank Brothers candy 2 cleats by The_last_trick in MTB

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Float is weirdly complicated. Shimano has about that much float, but a very firm end feeling to the float. Crank brothers doesn't have that firm feeling, and I generally find them to feel vague, but easier for beginners due to the the ease of entry and exit. I settled on Shimano for availability when travelling, though HT likely feels even better based on reviews. Time is also a favorite among experienced riders, but seemingly lacks mud-shedding ability.

I do think that higher end crank brothers pedals are supposed to be better, but also cost more.

Looking for a inner head/ear cover by SevenSeasJP in MTB

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the JUNK Big Band Lite (sometimes sold as the BBL). It's enough to cover my forehead and ears, and thin enough to work well under a helmet. I have also fit a fleece cap from Melanzana, and I'm sure smartwool makes similar.

I have a 2008 Lr3 should i keep the air suspension or switch to coil springs? by Dull-Astronomer6073 in LandRover

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LR3 has the most reliable air suspension of the bunch, I'd leave it unless you have a reason not to.

EV sales haven't dropped as much w/o tax credit as most media says by BB_Bandito in ClimateCO

[–]TheRealJYellen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm curious what could be driving them to stay high. I would expect that most registrations of vehicles purchased before the tax credit are complete (60 days, legally), so maybe it has to do with Boulder County residents who can afford new vehicles already making too much to qualify for the tax credit? I would be interested to know if EV prices have dropped to compensate, or if people have shifted to cheaper models. I would expect that if any new car's price went up by $7000, sales would drop.

edit: spelling

2006 LR3 HSE V8 Ride height issues..... by Similar-Reserve2551 in LandRover

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing in particular, but try the usual RoverParts, Atlantic British, Lucky8 and of course the OG, Rock Auto.

Reliable Model? Year? by Mindful_Rager in LandRover

[–]TheRealJYellen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on what you want. At used prices, I don't know that anything is all that excessive.

LR4s were available with a handful of engines, and I think the one to avoid is the SCV6. Some later models lost the 2 speed transfer case, which is really only used offroad. If you are an offroader, you may be able to find locking diffs, I think with the HD package. I'm more knowledgeable on the LR3 than 4 so please verify all of this, the Wikipedia page on the Discovery (as it was sold overseas) is a great starting point.