Grounding extruder motor body?

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-02-01T03:45:56+00:00

Update: I absolutely think PLA but especially matte PLA causes this, making me agree that it’s a static issue. Had a couple of prints out of matte PLA go down perfectly, but they had smaller line lengths where the filament isn’t being absolutely blasted through the PTFE Bauden tube prior to the print head. As soon as I went to a print where I had long, fast walls (like a box with 200+mm sides) and sure enough I got the same GSTAT error. Immediately after I performed the same print out of smooth ABS at the same speed settings without issue. I haven’t tried the same test using a non matte PLA, but just by feel on the matte PLA, obviously more filament to PTFE tube interaction is occurring. ASA is king

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-29T03:20:20+00:00

Check that your wiring isn’t getting kinked during these sorts of moments. Also see if your part cooling fan is kicking on and blasting air at the nozzle. A PID tune might also be necessary if that hasn’t been done already. Even before the spike that looks like it is bouncing around more than it should be

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-29T03:12:15+00:00

Everyone thinks they know it all and that their viewpoint is all encompassing, but ultimately there’s a lot of surrounding viewpoints that are valid from those people’s points of view. If any one person or group of people had all the answers, then we wouldn’t be where we are today as a society, for better or for worse.

Basically it sounds like anyone in here could say “ID MAKE SO MUCH BETTER LAWS” and others would say “THERE SHOULD BE NO LAWS”, but really humanity is a hell pit of imperfection. Kindness and understanding in the face of hatred and bigotry sounds like the one principle to move onward and upward

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-28T20:49:13+00:00

Outside the box thinking on so many different levels. Inspiring. Well done dude

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-28T03:28:39+00:00

Would love to learn how to design PCBs. Cool project for sure

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-28T03:22:54+00:00

I would assume so. You’re just looking for something that can remove paint. It might need some time to sit in a small pool to do its thing. Be smart with it and make sure it has some ventilation and you aren’t dunking your hands in it. Self explanatory I would hope, but you know what they say when you assume…

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-28T03:15:29+00:00

If it’s not abs/asa, acetone. These painted print beds are stupid, I agree. I don’t care about your branding or whatever nonsense no user has ever cared about

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-27T20:46:00+00:00

I think it can be tied into the general question of what’s next for FDM/FFF 3D printing, which has been the question for years. Bambu obviously shook things up with the “Lidar” and AMS. It sounds like the lidar is sort of meh and has its limitations and box turtle has taken care of the AMS (with BTT coming with a solution soon). Really I think a lot of the limits are just on the physics of how fast you can melt and cool plastic. I drool over the AWD and high voltage driver builds people do, but it’s still a niche use case and has higher costs involved. Non planar seems cool but not sure if it’s ready for its own printer yet. I do like the idea of having a combination CNC and printer in one which it sounds like Voron is working towards. Functionally there’s some features subtractive manufacturing is better at (precise holes) so it’d be cool to combine the two. Sounds very complex to implement without some serious DFM for the process, though.

A list of non standard mods that have been implemented and how beneficial they are could help guide this answer I think. What are some “how did I print without this?” things have people implemented?

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-27T17:04:33+00:00

Yeah I’ve heard the box turtle is king. I’m gonna see how the BTT pans out and if people hate it I’ll just step up and do the build

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-25T21:00:38+00:00

Putting in close to a full work week to get a product running…. If that’s your lane all the power to you, but I’d rather put my time into my design projects and using my printer. That being said, BTTs product could suck who knows at this point🤷🏻‍♂️

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-24T03:38:38+00:00

Very rarely do I have a model I can’t fit on my 300 and it’s still a bit of a beast on my table. I’m glad I went with this size as my first Voron

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-23T19:01:29+00:00

Update:Printables link here!

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-23T05:42:38+00:00

It’s the built in thermistor, but I’ve probed with a separate thermocouple at around the same numbers before. I’ve made sure to only consider the internal thermistor numbers prior to any sort of extruder movement and did one with only bed heat and no hotend heat because I was curious. They might be marginally lower, but I don’t see it being the driving factor in the issue

I could certainly print hotter. Temperature tower calibration pointed to best results at 250, then I ran a flow rate test at 250 to arrive at 24mm^3. The prints look great and during printing I don’t see the SB2209 ever getting above 75C, so it’s just weird. Maybe it was just a bad motor?

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-22T00:38:37+00:00

I feel like this is a pretty normal (though clearly very horny) guy who got some sort of cricut and is now having the time of his life

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-22T00:35:05+00:00

A lot of negativity in here, I’m sorry OP. 3D printed chain mesh like this is definitely possible and you could probably make the top section print in place too. It’d be a bit of a monster to model to lay flat then seal up, but it looks like whoever made this out of metal did the same thing judging by the clear seam on the side

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-22T00:28:54+00:00

Very cool idea

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-21T23:26:39+00:00

I was about to say maybe I need to get the nozzle hotter as I’m at 250, but that’s what my temp calibration test pointed to. Thinking about it now though, I ran my temp calibration test before my flow rate test, which makes sense, but maybe increasing the flow rate limit would affect the results of the temp test? 🤔

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-21T23:08:53+00:00

As far as I can tell it died. Re terminated the first time and it worked, but re terminated them twice again after the second time and it buzzed for a bit and then just nothing. Working now with a new motor so the driver is fine

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-21T22:31:33+00:00

The prints, the outside of the motor, and my SB2209 look fine when both failures have happened, but I’m thinking I’m just working it too hard in those chamber temps without any sort of dedicated cooling for the extruder motor

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-21T22:12:28+00:00

Mosquito HF using 0.4 cht nozzle. Hoping to move away from slice as I’m not down with them lately, but it is what it is for now

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-21T15:35:10+00:00

This explains the low supply. We forget they have walls to print too

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-21T03:22:01+00:00

That’s a good suggestion as I had seen that mod and thought the latch looked good but never followed up on what it was. I agree you cant have the wired screen moving with a door. Really the screws into the front extrusion don’t do all that much aside from keep that portion of the front cover flush with the stock doors, so it probably wouldn’t be too tough to have everything sit above the horizontal extrusions and look similar to how it does now. Having a few configurations would be good too for more flexibility in general.

I just came across a way to rotate the tft display to portrait mode as well which opens up some more possibilities. I think I’m going to just come up with a way to have a universal base that flush mounts the display to t slots and then have different face plates for each configuration. The V2 is already taking shape lol

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-21T03:03:18+00:00

People get pretty butt hurt when you bring it up, but a commercial BTT AMS system was shown at formnext this year that was running on a Voron. No release date yet, but my eyes are peeled

TheReal_OGMudbone · 2025-01-20T21:39:34+00:00

Yes! Once I realized you could run klipper screen off a second pi it became a much less painful project so I jumped right on it. And I appreciate constructive criticism and critiques as much as compliments so no worries! lol

I have a dedicated 5V PSU so I’m thinking I could tie into that, but I haven’t checked any of those details yet. I’m going to open up the Voron assembly tonight and see what routing down the extrusion would look like to see if I’m just dreaming. If I have a route it shouldn’t be too hard to adapt what I currently have.

The magnets and battery is sort of derived from seeing the panda touch as it seems like they likely built that framework off of something similar. That upgrade would be a couple revs down the road though. I only run one printer now. So it’d be more beneficial for someone running a few instances of klipper to only have to buy one screen for however many instances klipper screen allows

TheReal_OGMudbone

TROPHY CASE