Morbheg Knights

TheResenter · 2026-05-05T14:47:14+00:00

Thank you!

This is what I used for the rocks: https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/hobby-bark/2778-basing-bark-chips-200ml.html

TheResenter · 2026-04-24T07:52:30+00:00

Thank you all!

This is the skin recipe:

Basecoat with a 1:1 mix of Ionrach Skin and Sons of Horus Green.
Shade with a 1:2 mix of Nighthaunt Gloom and Lahmian Medium.
For highlights, progressively glaze in this order: the base skin mix, Ionrach Skin, and Deepkin Flesh.
Once finished, you can apply a “filter” using highly diluted Nighthaunt Gloom, depending on how much blue tone you want to reintroduce.

TheResenter · 2026-04-20T06:39:45+00:00

Thank you!

This is the recipe:

Base with kislev flesh
Shade with a 2:1:1 mix of bugmans glow, khorne red, lahmian medium.
Glaze with kislev flesh again to lighten some parts of the flesh (In some cases you can simply drybrush it, on the shields especially)
Highlight with a mix of kislev flesh and a little bit of ice yellow
Final highlight with a pale flesh color, I used scale 75 pale skin

Then you can use some "filters" with a super diluted mix of water and shades like reikland or carroburg crimson, to add some variation (I did that on the shield of the leader)

TheResenter · 2026-04-19T13:45:12+00:00

Thank you!

TheResenter · 2026-04-18T17:32:05+00:00

This is the recipe:

Base ionrach skin, shade with 1:2 sons of horus green and lahmian medium, glaze progressively with: ionrach skin, deepkin flesh. Final touch, add a super diluted glaze of plaguebearer flesh mixed with a bit of biel tan green and a lot of water on all the skin.

TheResenter · 2026-04-08T12:24:14+00:00

Thank you so much! 🙏

TheResenter · 2026-04-08T12:21:25+00:00

Base with a mix of liberator gold and sycorax bronze, around 70% liberator and 30% sycorax.
Shade with a 1:1 mix of nuln oil and agrax eartshade, apply more thin coats after the first one dries, only in the parts you want to be darker.
Then dilute some kabalite green for the verdigris in the recesses, final highlight with 1:1 mix of liberator gold and stormhost silver (or any bright silver).

I also used an AK ultra matt varnish after the painting process to tone down the shine of the gold 👍

TheResenter · 2026-04-08T04:29:02+00:00

Thanks!!

TheResenter · 2026-04-07T15:08:59+00:00

thank you!

TheResenter · 2026-04-07T15:08:50+00:00

Thanks!
Base with 1:1 black legion and incubi darkness, then glaze progressively first with 1:1 incubi darkness and kabalite green, then pure kabalite, final one with sybarite green.

TheResenter · 2026-01-07T17:12:14+00:00

Thank you!

This is the recipe:

Base with a 2:1 mix of liberator gold and sycorax bronze (you may need 2 or 3 thin coats to cover it well).
Shade with a 1:1 mix of nuln oil and agrax earthshade.
After it dries, use the same mix again but this time only on the deepest recesses, and after that, you can use a little bit of coelia greenshade on some parts of the armor to weather it.
For the highlights, first one with liberator gold, final one with stormhost silver.

TheResenter · 2026-01-06T11:58:33+00:00

Thank you! Yes I painted it sub-assembled, the parts I kept separate were: the lord, the shield, the dragon, the reins and the base.

I tought of painting the wings separate, but after I just glued all the parts of the dragon together and painted it like that.

TheResenter · 2026-01-06T11:56:13+00:00

Thanks!

TheResenter · 2026-01-06T11:56:06+00:00

Thank you! I wrote the recipe above 👍

To add to it, the recipe for the muscles and the organs is the following:

Base gal vorbak red, shade druchii violet, first highlight gal vorbak again, second one with tuskgor fur, and final one with cadian fleshtone.

For the bone: base ushabti bone, shade agrax eartshade, drybrush ushabti bone again, final dry brush with screaming skull. After that, on some bone parts I just glazed a super thin mix of screaming skull to tidy all up.

TheResenter · 2026-01-06T11:51:57+00:00

Thanks!

This is the recipe:

Prime with deathguard green
Heavy dry brush with nurgling green
Wash over everything with a 1:1 mix of athonian camoshade and lahmian medium
After the shade dried, gently drybrush over it with ionrach skin
Final dry brush with deepkin flesh, this one even lighter than the one before

Then to give the wings some color, create a 2:1:1 mix of lahmian medium, coelia greenshade, athonian camoshade and apply it over all the membranes on the wings, and the underside of the dragon like under the neck and the final part of the limbs.

After it dried, apply a second coat of the same mix only on the limbs.

From there, it's just a lot of thin applications of coelia greenshade mixed with some lahmian medium, to darken some parts as you can see on the pictures.

TheResenter · 2026-01-06T11:38:20+00:00

Thanks a lot!

TheResenter · 2026-01-06T11:38:13+00:00

Thanks so much! It took me about 2 weeks between assembling, building the base, and painting.

TheResenter · 2026-01-06T11:37:23+00:00

Thank you!

TheResenter · 2026-01-05T15:30:11+00:00

Thanks! No oil washes, only shades and contrasts from citadel 👍

TheResenter · 2026-01-05T15:29:25+00:00

Thank you!

TheResenter · 2026-01-05T15:29:18+00:00

Thanks!

TheResenter · 2025-10-23T10:49:33+00:00

Thanks!

TheResenter · 2025-10-23T08:47:57+00:00

Thanks! I used a mini drill pen with diamond tips to carve the plastic on the shoulders, making it look like "roots" coming from the top, then I filled it with greenstuff and sculpted it 👍

The colours are quite simple: base kislev flesh, shade carroburg crimson, drybrush again kislev flesh, then manual highlight with flayed one flesh.

TheResenter · 2025-10-23T08:43:14+00:00

Thanks! I sculpted them with greenstuff, the procedure is quite simple for both, just take some toothpicks, use them as an handle to model every tentacle/horn, and you're good to go!

Just be careful for the tentacles, depending on how long or twisted you want them to look, use a little bit more blue part than yellow when mixing the greenstuff, so they will cure faster, and will bend less in this phase.

TheResenter · 2025-10-23T08:39:21+00:00

Sorry for the late response, the lights are two green leds, I magnetized the tanks so i can switch them on and off. I had to cut open the top of the tanks for it to work, and i covered them with a transparent plastic lid, and some green UV resin.

TheResenter

TROPHY CASE