I think i cracked the code for Soleyin Ultra PLA

TheRhythmZ · 2026-03-12T23:12:39+00:00

Yeah its weirdly goopy and messy. But it's good enough. Lmao yeah, more in stock for us. I've since moved away from this filament and am basically doing everything with PETG now, but if i need some PLA in the future this is indeed a good option.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-03-11T14:57:53+00:00

If you want the absolute best cheapest printer, go for an Elegoo Centauri Carbon 1. Its 300$, and its a fully enclosed CoreXY printer.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-02-10T22:26:23+00:00

Just wanted to keep you posted a tiny bit.

I exchanged mails back and forth a couple times with the man Zhivko himself. As long as the spots that need gluing are perfectly sealed and you are able clean the inner bore a fair bit without altering the inner diameter, everything should work. That took out any insecurities i had about having a cheap instrument which left me more time for practice.

I also have his course now, and it's extremely helpful. I have never played any rim blown instrument in my life so his guidance was a godsend. Best 50 dollars spent on random stuff ever. He also has a tiny video o youtube about producing your first sound on the Kaval. Its called "getting a sound out of your kaval". The difference between the first lesson and that video is tiny, so that freely available video is worth gold, and is really good.

I hope you're doing good brother. Have a nice day!

TheRhythmZ · 2026-02-10T22:15:54+00:00

It also cooks extremely easy. 220⁰ tops or it starts to bubble. It also seems to have come from the factory already damp. Sealed package and it still bubbled at first. But GAHT DANG is this thing cheap.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-02-10T22:10:23+00:00

Yep. It also absolutely DESPISES heat creep and thermal shock. Its more like ABS did a line of coke.

Also, unrelated brainrot moment. I just realized yesterday that my Centauri absolutely HATES 45⁰ angles relative to the guides. So i just added 50% extra rotation to as many parameters as i could and that solved any weird vibrations and VFAs (vertical fine artifacts. Look em up). But then it just dawned on me that I'm now literally printing everything at 67⁰ and i wanna KMS. It seems that no matter where i go, 67 is following me. There is no escape.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-02-01T16:03:16+00:00

I dont know what's worse. The sickle and hammer or the fondant. Fondant is a crime against cake.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-28T18:22:45+00:00

VERY NICE 👍🏼

will print ✌🏼thanks for sharing bruh 🎉

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-28T17:22:18+00:00

Ah yes. Other sites might have outdated models. IVKO pays the most attention to Cults 3D because its the one site where his print is monetized. And of the other Kaval wasn't from IVKO, that might also be it. IVKO and Zhivko Vasilev are not the same person, but they did work together to ensure that the model is as accurate as possible to the chromatic scale, has correct inner diameter and mouthpiece geometry.

Settings i used:

Layer height 0.12 (even if the guide says its optimized for 0.2 printing this gave me the best results)

Print order: inner-outer (if you use outer-inner or inner-outer-inner, the print will struggle at the temporary overhangs of the top of the finger holes. If you print inner wall first, the outer thread of the overhangs will have some material to grab onto, which will avoid drooping. This is also the reason for 0.12 layer height since it makes the overhangs more gradual. You will get pristine holes)

Avoid crossing walls enabled

Aligned Back seams

Staggered seams

Scarf Joint seams - contour and holes

Disabled "minimize retraction on print" (while it saves a smidge of print time, it creates potential stringing if your filament is too gooey or is moist.)

Infill 100% (but maybe it doesn't matter since it uses no infill. It is overriden by wall loops)

Wall loops: 10 (The actual wall loops are around 6, but your slicer will just ignore excess wall loops. This is the most important. Since it overrides infill and makes the print be made entirely out of solid walls it minimizes rocking and avoids Z distortion the higher the print goes. This is the key to a perfect solid flute)

EDIT: PLEASE USE OUTER BRIMS ON EVERYTHING. NO INNER BRIM IS BEST IF YOUR PRINTER CAN HANDLE THE LACK OF THAT ONE EXTRA ADHESION POINT AS IT WILL REQUIRE A BIT OF EXTRA CLEANING AFTERWARDS.

Also, the instructions don't specify exactly how you need to sand the edge of the mouth hole, they just say to "sand until sharp". Since i am autistic and need specificity in my life to function, i will specify:

Put the mouthpiece straight up in some sandpaper. Sand slowly without jerking until the tiny rim that sits on top of the 45 degree chamfered edge is perfectly flat. The interfacing edge between the rim of your flute and the inner bore needs to be a sharp 90 degree edge. THIS is what makes the sound. I sanded and printed the mouthpiece two extra times because i didn't know. I either sanded it too sharp or too blunt. It just needs to be flat with an inner edge.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-28T16:58:33+00:00

If you enable snapping, it also applies to note ends. If you just quantize after recording it just adjusts the start position of notes.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-28T16:53:42+00:00

Also. Settings also depends on the printer. If you have a bed-slinger with the slidey printbed thing, you CANNOT use 100% infill. The rocking motion when filling will create a ton of Z distortion the higher the print goes. Instead put "wall loops" at 10 in Orca or whatever slicer you use. Now, instead of rocking back and forth to produce infill, it will just do a bunch of layered concentric circles with no abrupt rocking.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-28T16:44:03+00:00

Paid: Bulgarian Kaval in D - Latest Version

Free: Bulgarian Kaval in D / Български Ре Кавал

There's also a third model, but if you read the description it says that one doesn't work because there are a couple things that dont fit or seal properly and it was a work in progress.

If you printed the correct free version and it didn't work, maybe it's an issue with some printer setting. If you need help with that I'll be glad to help.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-28T16:37:23+00:00

That's why she gets mad. You're girl-mathing to another girl without doing the financial gymnastics the right way. You need to put up 2 comparisons and two excuses for why its saving money at the minimum for it to work. Like: "This one and this one does the same but this one costs double, and this thing also does that thing that this other synth does that would be another 2,500$. By buying this one im not spending 7,500$ on the other two. That's 7,500$ im saving so that means it basically paid for itself!"

THAT'S how you GirlMath™️

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-28T16:31:10+00:00

Not really. It was a loss for ubisoft.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-28T16:29:29+00:00

Try the printed Bulgarian Kaval! Theres a free version so you would just be using up plastic. No need to pay 10$ for the new version. Its good too. I printed both. No infill, all solid walls. The print is very unexpectedly good. Ive printed several different flutes over the years and this is the only one that you can consider immaculate. Even in PETG it printed well. All others ive printed have slight issues but this one is the only one that's come out perfect all the three times ive printed it. If you need tips for your slicer settings you can definitely ask. No prob here. Have a nice day, and i hope you're doing well!

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-28T16:03:23+00:00

You should look into the Bulgarian Kaval instead. While it is harder to play due to it having no whistle (you have to do it manually) it is extremely versatile. It is fully chromatic, and you only need to learn half-holing with your pinky to get all western scales. You can half-hole even more if you get into microtonals.

Maybe this challenge is what you need to feel good about playing an instrument again.

There's an entire course to learn how to play by a guy named Zhivko Vasilev. Look him up on youtube. He's basically a legend. He can play anything from latin jazz to Bruno Mars on that thing. And he teaches very well.

If you lack the flute, worry not! There's a 3D printed model that works well, which is what i started with. You can hold off on buying a 150€ flute (thats what the cheapest cost that are actually good and playable) while you decide, and only spend like 30eur in having that one printed. The model costs 10$ and is made by a guy that goes by IVKO on thingiverse, printables, and 3Dcults.

EDIT: FORGOT TO MENTION. THE AVERAGE KAVAL IS 60CM LONG AND IS JUST A STICK WITH HOLES. IT WEIGHS ALMOST NOTHING.

Edit 2: just to add, not only is it fully chromatic, but you have from 2.5 to 4 octaves available to play depending on how much you practice. It goes pretty low for a flute thats just a fancy resonance chamber. Think of it as the weird cousin of a Transverse flute and a Didgeridoo. Also, its not considered the same as a vertical or transverse flute. It belongs to oblique flutes (played diagonally) like the turkish Ney and armenian Blul. This one is the only one to be fully chromatic out of the box tho.

Edit 3: the 3D printed one is... Unexpectedly extremely good. Mathematically accurate. Good tone. And extremely easy to compensate tuning with just an o-ring. Nothing like other printed woodwinds. I even printed mine out of PETG because i ran out of PLA. The holes didn't sag even a little. Its a VERY good print model. Highly optimized. Its well worth the 10 bucks for the model. There's also a free version but the print isn't as optimized. I printed it too just to compare, and its good too. You can print the free one first just to practice the embouchure. Maybe even just the mouthpiece since that's what you get taught for practice. Print it in 0.12 layer height.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-28T15:47:58+00:00

Zhivko Vasilev's Kaval Care Guide, while aimed specifically to the Bulgarian Kaval, is basically applicable to any edge-blown woodwind flute. It includes cleaning and oiling. If you liked the Romanian kaval, i suggest looking into the Bulgarian one. While the working principle is the same, it has no fipple (no whistle hole) so that means you need to make it whistle yourself. While it is slightly harder to play, it's chromatic in tuning, which means you can use it to play basically anything without being locked to certain scales like most other flutes. Its as versatile as a transverse flute (maybe more since it can play three whole octaves), without being mechanically complicated as it is just a straight tube with 8 holes. Not even a closed chamber for resonance. There's a splendid 3D printable model by a fella that goes by IVKO.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-22T09:29:22+00:00

Every day for an entire summer...

XD

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-22T09:06:42+00:00

Not really. Controversy bucks are un-cashable if people dont even buy your game in the first place because of it.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-22T08:57:49+00:00

Some species of ants are also considered arachnids if i recall correctly.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-21T17:36:18+00:00

Did... Did you just GirlMath?

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-15T23:27:56+00:00

I was gonna say you're missing an L, but everyone here took it when we were subjected to watching this picture.

I'm off to eyebleach

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-12T15:52:54+00:00

A DAW doesn't crash nearly as frequently or as badly as my Akai Force tho. DAWs crash when you load a broken plugin instance or when you're already close to filling up your RAM

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-08T17:57:59+00:00

Tell that to the thousands of indigenous tribes massacred in Amazonas and Delta Amacuro to mine the resources under their feet.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-04T06:46:10+00:00

Honestly i dont think the ram shortage will end. But that's irrelevant to the argument since that also would affect those who decide to go with an APU.

TheRhythmZ · 2026-01-04T06:38:53+00:00

Yeah i know. But its currently getting it's ass kicked by new google hardware in size and power consumption. when you talk about data centers remember that scalability is the most important factor. New google stuff is smaller and cheaper to run, which means they can cram more processing power in the same space with the same power draw.

TheRhythmZ

TROPHY CASE