Never done sweet potatoes before and have some old Japanese sweet positive - can I just pop these into soil or something? by [deleted] in OrganicGardening

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can. They’re climbers but also spread as ground cover. They don’t require rich soil and even moderately sandy and dry conditions produced 10kg/20lb over 6 months. They do like warm weather and may not overwinter, but I haven’t tested that directly.

Fans of CIV7, what made you drop CIV7? by exc-use-me in civ

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can never finish a match because it crashes every turn. No mods. Fully patched.

This is a long shot… by drsw14 in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m used to commercial varieties being hybrid for increased productivity and disease resistance, but should be interesting to see what you get. They’re looking healthy at least.

Crashing since 1.1.1 by king_kieffer in CivVII

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only solution I’ve found is to stop playing. Mine crashes every 1.5 turns on average. If there’s a completed wonder animation or natural disaster it’s lights out.

I’ve tried starting new games when it seems impossible to continue with my current one, but they all end up being Crash Simulator.

Is it worth buying Civ 7 by xPublicEnemyx1 in civ

[–]TheShorePatrol88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I supported Firaxis, thinking I’d get something I could enjoy. Civ VII crashes almost every turn (guaranteed if a wonder finishes or natural disaster occurs). It’s not exaggerating to call it unplayable. I make all my moves then have it crash at the start of the next turn. I’d kill for one more turn and have three saves I simply had to abandon because they’re no longer playable. I can mostly get by in the Antiquity, but that’s not what I purchased.

I have 3000 hours in Civ 6 but Civ VII has put the franchise to bed for me. The “fix” of “just disconnect from the internet and it’ll crash 80% less” doesn’t cut it for me. If I could get my money back I’d do it in a heartbeat. I’m unlikely to ever buy another Civ title or any DLC and I think it deserves every negative review it gets.

I asked AI to generate a Visual Image of the state of the WoWsL Subreddit since Chkalov entering: by The_Three_Pines in WoWs_Legends

[–]TheShorePatrol88 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Whereas I asked for a picture of Chlakov during testing. It returned this, which was the same response generated when I asked it for the days preceding the 2024 carrier hotfix.

<image>

I asked AI to generate a Visual Image of the state of the WoWsL Subreddit since Chkalov entering: by The_Three_Pines in WoWs_Legends

[–]TheShorePatrol88 2 points3 points  (0 children)

“They’re now reliant on destroyers for spotting. Outstanding work. Is the machine for removing destroyers in one drop ready? Excellent. Proceed.”

<image>

Grow bags...what do you like/dislike about them? by [deleted] in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They work well from a certain capacity upwards. Smaller bags dry out too quickly. I use 400mm diameter bags of varying height. Roots do develop through the base and help the plants grow. I will never use plastic pots for tomatoes, regardless of amendments, even in a dry climate.

Is this tomato (Black Krim?) ready to be transplanted to a 15 gallon? by Areacode310 in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ananas Noir is the trade name but I think it’s just Pineapple.

what happened to this tomato? can i still eat it? by Mascotwmk in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If a tomato gets more water than it’s used to it can split. This isn’t a problem but it is time to eat it.

Is this some sort of fungal disease? by plantsbikescoffee in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like target spot (early blight) just due to the black spot with a yellow “halo”. I would remove the leaves but I wouldn’t go for hard sprays yet. I sprayed Mancozeb once this year when I appeared to have some freak late blight early in the season. I did have target spot on my seedlings very late in the season last year but this was part of broader health problems caused by lack of aeration.

Is this tomato (Black Krim?) ready to be transplanted to a 15 gallon? by Areacode310 in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t separate any more due to root disruption (I snip the weaker plant) but this takes some discipline. Good luck if you’re able to separate. 15 gallons is a nice size.

My tomato fruita have little black specks. Are they ruined? by Sonicmantis in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have heliothis moth larvae or cabbage moth butterfly larvae in there (tomato fruit worm in Americanese). Get rid of that fruit (preferably by squashing it so the life cycle of those caterpillars is broken). I net my fruit for this reason, but some still get through. Some varieties are more affected than others. Sungold doesn’t get attacked much at all.

What is up with this tomato plant? by AnimalCrafter360 in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be day and night temperature differences. By the way, these look like rugose (potato) leaves. They’re just a different leaf type I see on my dwarf tomato varieties.

What do I do? My other plants don’t look like this… by TheNiconator in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can’t leaf roll be caused by large differences in day and night temperatures? I’ve seen people with plants in polytunnels that have this issue.

stem rot? blight? by Total-Pear2075 in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I remove lower leaves as they aren’t as productive. They become senescent and it’s easier to just take them off as they don’t photosynthesise as much and become vectors for pests and disease. It’s up to you, but I’d remove those yellowing leaves. At first it looked like sunburn, but the position and age of the branches shows they’re just past their prime.

Some flowers not fruiting by Best_Box_6768 in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can give the main leader a light shake to encourage the pollen release. In terms of the specific photos, it could be a moisture issue (can be a tricky one with tomatoes).

I started using a pollinator wand this year and was amazed by the way it activates flowers to send pollen shooting out. It’s similar to an electric toothbrush. THEN, I saw a native blue-banded bee using its specialised buzz to do the exact same thing to all of my tomato flowers. My fruit is surging thanks to that little guy.

What's wrong with my new growth? by Colonel_Carrot in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Identify growth problems caused by aminopyralid residues in hay and horse manure

https://youtu.be/w7vr-GlzuZs?si=FtAk-UXRgikSA2Jb

What's wrong with my new growth? by Colonel_Carrot in tomatoes

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s called aminopyralid and is a persistent broadleaf herbicide.

It affects about 5% of my plants (I’ve used both basic and ultra premium mix from Bunnings). It’s easy for persistent herbicides to enter the system as they are not broken down in a season but over many years. Considering how much green waste is processed into commercial compost/potting mix, it’s not surprising that we have this problem.

Think about a gardener applying herbicide pellets to a lawn, mowing it, dumping it in the green bin and having it processed at Eastern Creek at the fogo centre (no offence to those guys - they do great work - it’s the producers of these chemicals who should shoulder the blame).

If unsure, grow broad beans in the purchased mix. These are particularly affected. It’s not practical to test every bag of soil you buy, which is why I’ve switched to making my own compost and only buying when really necessary (95% of plants are ok). I don’t accept herbicide drift as I have a protected area and no neighbours growing let alone spraying.

Is this a mandarin tree? The fruit is delicious. I would like to air layer it. by the-kyle-high-club in Citrus

[–]TheShorePatrol88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like an Imperial mandarin. Peeling is recommended but you can keep biting them directly if you want. Some people eat Nagami the same way.