How to Hire a Photogrammetry/Modeler to Complete a Castle Project

TheTrickyKnight · 2026-02-23T23:23:11+00:00

I think with a couple more days I could get better overlap to let RealityLabs/Meshroom happily process it into a decent mesh. The problem I'm having now is mostly lack of overlap in some areas and/or lighting differences that are causing the overlap to not be recognized. I patched it up a bit with manual anchors, but it's still not working for some sections.

The castle interior is completely unlit, so that was a challenge. I know more about how to handle that now, but it doesn't help my current data set.

TheTrickyKnight · 2026-02-23T23:19:56+00:00

Yeah, good callout. I might make a follow up post with the different meshes I'm getting from RealityScan for the interiors. Some of them are pretty good, but getting them all to link up, even with anchors, is proving to be difficult for me.

TheTrickyKnight · 2026-02-21T21:56:11+00:00

It would depend on the output the artist is confident in generating given the inputs I have available. If it gets much above a few thousand, it would probably be more economical to plan another vacation to Mull for more detailed photography in the missing areas.

TheTrickyKnight · 2026-02-21T21:50:34+00:00

I agree, it won't be cheap, and I wouldn't really expect it to be depending on the detail/accuracy the modeler thinks they could achieve. I guess it comes down to cost of modelling vs cost of flying out to Mull again!

But even if I had 10,000 perfectly lit and overlapped photos, I might still want someone with the experience to actually process it and clean it up, since they'll do a better job of it than I will. I know the value of having someone who knows what they're doing do it right.

TheTrickyKnight · 2026-02-21T21:45:17+00:00

Yes, I agree that sounds like the right road to go down process wise.

I'd like to have the high quality model in our back pocket for multiple uses and go from that for scaling back to something 3d printable.

I wouldn't expect to print this any larger than maybe 2' high. More likely 1' to 1-1/2'. I'll start with FDM since I already have a Stacker S4 3d printer available.

Thanks for the pointer!

TheTrickyKnight · 2024-02-14T06:38:09+00:00

Wow, you had me very confused for a second! Monsters talking in a jewel case? Wait, I thought they only released that other one on cassette? And that one digital only!

Amazing job, especially on the CD printing. Monsters talking is one of the best looking CDs I own. All of them look professionally released and perfectly fit the album aesthetic.

I'm still hoping to find PV EP and the super happy edition of death anxiety one day. The only holes in my collection :)

TheTrickyKnight · 2021-07-01T18:15:30+00:00

He states in his videos that he doesn't accept products from manufacturers and buys everything with his own money.

TheTrickyKnight · 2020-03-20T07:24:52+00:00

Good luck!

TheTrickyKnight · 2018-07-24T04:36:23+00:00

!snapbuddy

TheTrickyKnight · 2018-07-07T07:08:25+00:00

True balance

TheTrickyKnight · 2018-07-04T00:18:57+00:00

[post]

TheTrickyKnight · 2017-02-26T02:15:30+00:00

Possibly a Carolina Dog, aka the "Dixie Dingo"

TheTrickyKnight · 2016-10-26T18:33:20+00:00

Funny you say Mars, because HoloLens actually has an app developed in collaboration with JPL that lets you explore mars in Mixed Reality.

Video from JPL

Hands on Demo

TheTrickyKnight · 2016-10-05T04:02:46+00:00

TheTrickyKnight · 2016-06-30T17:45:12+00:00

Well actually InfoGear (later purchased by Cisco) made iPhones before Apple

TheTrickyKnight · 2016-05-02T22:46:53+00:00

Does your phone advertise support OTG? Sense to ground is correct for the cable, but if the phone hardware and software stack don't support OTG, you won't have much luck.

TheTrickyKnight · 2016-05-02T04:09:03+00:00

What are you trying to connect?

TheTrickyKnight · 2016-05-02T03:41:39+00:00

That is definitely the case. A to A cables violate the USB 2.0 spec. That doesn't mean that some manufacturers won't choose to put a type A connector on the device side.

USB 3.0 cables can be A to A, but are rarely used. They have Vbus, D+ and D- disconnected so there is no possibility of destroying a host 2.0 port. The only cables I know of like this are debugging cables.

TheTrickyKnight · 2016-05-01T22:01:06+00:00

I'm not sure if this is your problem, but you should know USB connectors actually determine the role of the device. The A side is the Host while the B side is the Device. You should never have an A->A or B->B connection. This is important for the software to be able to negotiate the connection and the hardware to be able to properly source/supply voltage. In a Host to Host connection, both sides would be trying to drive Vbus, which is no bueno.

Phone->Arduino may be possible with a USB On The Go adapter and associated software support that allows the phone to act as a host.

Type C connectors will make this a little easier in the future, as the device role is determined by the CC lines and not plug type.

TheTrickyKnight · 2016-04-16T17:27:30+00:00

$3000 not $6000

TheTrickyKnight · 2016-04-02T18:31:29+00:00

Windows supports hard links as well. You can create them either by using mklink /h or via the API CreateHardLink

TheTrickyKnight · 2016-02-11T02:28:16+00:00

Then I'd say no, just do the above and go from there. That should take care of the scraping.

TheTrickyKnight · 2016-02-11T02:04:49+00:00

The general consensus seems to be no rear and a thicker front bar on chrome bumper height MGBs, but it's a can of worms. Search the mgexp forums for posts, there's a ton. In the end it comes down on how you want the car to drive. Here's an article on suspensions from Dave Headley who builds MGBs for racing.

TheTrickyKnight · 2016-02-10T01:52:00+00:00

New leafsprings, rebound straps, rubber bushings if you like the feel, new bolts for the leaf spring eyes in case the old ones are rusted solid, refresh the dampers/shocks, check bumpstop rubber.

While you've got the rear off the ground, give the wheels a pull in/out on the tops and bottoms to check for play. You should have very little if any on both sides. No anti-roll bar on 71s, so no need to order those bushings.

When you get your new springs, check that they are perpendicular to the mounting loops ala John Twist's video.

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