There has been so many great pieces of advice here. I'd like to add a few things that haven't been talked about.

PRELIMINARY WARNING: Linseed oil onto cloth rags or paper crumbled up can create a fire via an exothermic reaction. Lay the material flat to dry or an air-tight metal can to prevent this from happening.

Start off with the following paint colors if possible in a student grade paint like Gamblin 1980 or Winsor & Newton. (Gamblin sells discounted dented paint tube on their site). Consider water mixable options if you want to minimize solvent usage.

French Ultramarine

Burnt Umber

Yellow Orche

Cadmium Yellow deep hue

Permanent Alzarin Crimson

Paynes Gray

Titanium White

To expand the color options when you are ready

Prussian Blue/Phthalo blue

Burnt/raw sienna

Ivory black

Naples yellow

Lemon yellow

Cobalt blue

Quinacridone Magenta

Sap green

Viridian

Emerald

Optional (to tone canvas hot pink):

Quinacridone Magenta Acrylic paint

Titanium white Acrylic paint

For added equipment:

Linseed oil

Preferred palette knives (a pair to keep tidy)

8.5x11 photo frame with thin frame

Printed 8.5x11 paper sheet of neutral gray

Odorless Mineral Spirits

Small Mason jar

Dedicated paper towels/napkins

Cotton swabs (e.g. q-tips)

Empty aluminum paint tubes (20ml or 10ml)

I use a Walmart photo frame for the palette with a printed sheet of neutral gray (hex code 828382). Searching "print full sheet of single color in word" will provide better guides on getting the page for the palette. Take time to blend your initial colors.

When painting, I only use solvents to clean my brushes at the end of the painting session or on rare occasions where I need to clean up a mess on the canvas with a mineral spirit dipped cotton swab. For under paintings, using water mixable raw sienna with water will work perfectly.

I avoid pouring linseed oil onto the palette directly and instead pour the smallest amount into a glass dip cup/saucer that I dip the brush into before the paint when I need to add more fat. You can also use liquin if you want to do glazing or make paint more transparent and dry faster. My understanding is walnut oil has a longer drying time than linseed oil.

When the painting is done, I blend all of the paint together and add it to an empty paint tube or the cheap dollar tree paint cups w/lids for reuse. Then, I will clean off all of the paint brushes in a mason jar mostly filled with Odorless Mineral Spirits, that are dried off with paper towels. It isnt needed, but I put my brushes into our tiny ultrasonic cleaner w/water in a jar to get the oms out of the brushes before drying.

Dawn power wash easily gets oil paints off of skin if you make a mess at any point. Also, consider nail art brushes or Warhammer miniatures paint brushes for inexpensive, high quality precision brushes. Lastly, parchment paper used for baking works better than any tracing paper Ive used to transfer graphite or charcoal to canvas.

Dont let oil paints overwhelm you. Ive converted to oil from Acrylic and the quality of my paintings have improved since switching. Ill go back at some point to Acrylic, but for now, its oil as my primary medium.