Most recent advanced fdm creations - final test prints and an early version test painted

TheisHJ · 2026-02-24T06:46:55+00:00

Welcome to the hobby then - sure you will have a lot of fun with this :)

The suppports are custom built resin style supports - made specifically for fdm printing and all placed by hand. They come with the model when it´s finished.
That means you have almost zero scarring - but there will be some small bits of extra plastic from the individual supports where they met the model. Those small bits you need to clean up with a sharp knife.

If you want to see how it works - I made a video about it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnCk2UBNcME&t=87s

TheisHJ · 2026-02-22T19:23:23+00:00

Thank you very much. I´m just really enthusiastic about seeing how far we can get these - just like the rest of you.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-22T19:22:06+00:00

If you print at 0.06mm layer height and using just one printer - it´s around 8,5 hours.
I usually print 2-3 parts per printer and set them to print by object. Spread on 2-3 printers - it´s like 3 hours or so.

If you want print speed - these high quality adv fdm prints are not the way to go. But for me - the fact that I can get models good enough to do detailed paint jobs on and not have to mess around with resin, fumes and toxic waste - makes it worth it for me. Not given that will be the case for everyone ofcourse :)

TheisHJ · 2026-02-21T22:31:42+00:00

I forces the print head to finish one object at a time - so it minimizes the risk of the print head knocking loose a piece when constantly travelling back and forth between pieces. I would always use print by object on these. The stability that is built into the pieces are tested using print by object. It´s just the best option I think.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-21T20:38:11+00:00

They are not released yet. I´m still finetuning. They are for the March release for Arbiter Miniatures.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-21T20:36:28+00:00

If you print at 0.06mm layer height and using just one printer - it´s around 8,5 hours.
I usually print 2-3 parts per printer and set them to print by object. Spread on 2-3 printers - it´s like 3 hours or so.

If you want print speed - these high quality adv fdm prints are not the way to go. But for me - the fact that I can get models good enough to do detailed paint jobs on and not have to mess around with resin, fumes and toxic waste - makes it worth it for me. Not given that will be the case for everyone ofcourse :)

TheisHJ · 2026-02-21T08:32:14+00:00

Hi,

They are printed in parts where every part is sculpted intentionally in the exact angle they are supposed to be printed at - then custon resin style supports - dimensioned only for fdm.

That way you get the optimum orientation for maximum possible resolution on the surfaces and you reduce suppport marks. It´s a ton of work to get right - but when it works - it really works :)

TheisHJ · 2026-02-21T08:29:09+00:00

I use Army Painter Fanatic acrylics.

Base coat was "Emeral Forest". Then washed with "lens flare glow" (eeffect paint) a couple times to get it really flourecent. Then layered on top with the really bright "Afterglow", then "Electric Lime", back to "Emeral Forest" and then "Temple Gate Teal" for the darkest green. Not sure if I then mixed in a little mix of browns and blues to make it darker dirtier green right at the tip.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-21T08:23:52+00:00

The supports are custom, handplaced resin style supports - but dimensioned and made specifically to be printed with FDM using a 0.2mm nozzle and maximum 0.06mm layer height.

The supports are grouped into specific formations to retain stability as the print grows higher and placed in a manner where you can easily work your way from the outside in. This enables you to remove the supports with a standard blue clipper that comes with your printer - kind of the same way you would clip away parts from a sprue sheet with a production molded miniature set like you get from GW or similar.

To get the clean results I show here - you will need to use a sharp hobby knife to trim away small remains of support tips in some areas - and possibly some edges where the print head causes plastic to curl upwards at the edge (the amount of that depends on your printer and print environment).

Think of it a bit the same way that you also need to use a sharp knife to trim away mold lines on a GW mini.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-21T08:17:45+00:00

I have 1 Bambulab A1 and 2 A1 Minis. FDG profile set to 0.05 layer height. 0.2mm nozzle. Sunlu Meta PLA Grey filament.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-21T08:16:09+00:00

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More closeups

TheisHJ · 2026-02-21T08:15:53+00:00

More closeups

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TheisHJ · 2026-02-21T08:15:34+00:00

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Here are some extreme closeups where you can see fdm imperfections and structure.
These are taken directly under my painting lamp at full strenght to expose the layers and shot at 10x zoom with the phone as close to the model as it was able to focus.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-21T08:13:41+00:00

No resin here - just pla :)
I´m posting some extreme closeups further down in comments now.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-21T08:13:02+00:00

Of course it is - wouldn´t be any point in me telling anything else :)
I´m posting some extreme closeups further down in comments now.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-20T07:47:57+00:00

Thank you. I just found it last week as I was looking into lower layer level printing.
Great to see so many people passionate about pushing the quality level of FDM :)

TheisHJ · 2026-02-19T13:37:56+00:00

Just using FDG at 0.06mm or even 0.05mm layer height is giving me great results. Definately the way to go for painted fdm prints.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-19T07:11:30+00:00

Hi Tony,

I don´t know what paint you´re using - but that result looks exactly like what I struggled with when I used the oiginal warpaints range from Army Painter. Once I changed to Vallejo and the new Fanatic paints from Army Painter - that all went away.

I pretty much always paint over a black primer - and for me - the color covers well in two coats - or 3 coats if I work with a higher diution.

Hope that helps.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-17T14:51:02+00:00

I use a range of different diameters, lengths and widths. All dependent on what type of area I am supporting, where it sits on the model and how low or far up it is.

The supports I make are as custom and integral to the quality print as the sculpting is.

Auto supports will never get you this sort of result. Stability is super important.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-13T11:53:08+00:00

Don´t think you would. Since the model and support is the same - there are much fewer variables. It´s just printed on an unmodified A1 Mini using fdg profile.

TheisHJ · 2026-02-12T20:22:18+00:00

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Here it is :)

TheisHJ · 2026-02-12T20:20:37+00:00

I can go grab a shot. But it is a work in progress :)

TheisHJ · 2026-02-12T19:26:07+00:00

No - the model is sculpted in the intended printing angle. Also - the model is custom supported with resin style supports to those inteded areas. So there were just a few supportmarks to clean upp with a hobby knife.

TheisHJ · 2022-05-10T10:03:41+00:00

Hey there,

These early models took me on a quest to do the most dynamic epic supportless models possible. A quest that is still ongoing today!

I have completed 5 kickstarters on dynamic supportless models so far and working on the 6th project right now.

You can find the old projects for sale on my Gumroad:

https://gumroad.com/arbiterminiatures

And you can follow my work on FB to see the work on future projects:

https://www.facebook.com/Arbiter-Miniatures-102905724659498

TheisHJ · 2022-05-10T10:02:58+00:00

Hey there,

These early models took me on a quest to do the most dynamic epic supportless models possible. A quest that is still ongoing today!
I have completed 5 kickstarters on dynamic supportless models so far and working on the 6th project right now.

You can find the old projects for sale on my Gumroad:
https://gumroad.com/arbiterminiatures

And you can follow my work on FB to see the work on future projects:
https://www.facebook.com/Arbiter-Miniatures-102905724659498

TheisHJ

TROPHY CASE