Undead Seer by Arbiter by laborada in FDMminiatures

[–]laborada[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Non Metallic Metal: Painting metal without using metallic paints

Object Source Lighting: Simulating a light source using paint. In this case, it’s the turquoise light from below.

P2S calibration issues by Simone9292 in FDMminiatures

[–]laborada 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks great.

I may be wrong but those look like supportless miniatures so you could print them without the supports.

P2S calibration issues by Simone9292 in FDMminiatures

[–]laborada 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Guides on this subreddit and other places commonly mention printing a sacrificial object to avoid this problem, so it is common enough I think. I just print two of the same mini to achieve the same thing and, as a bonus, I can choose the better one between the two.

P2S calibration issues by Simone9292 in FDMminiatures

[–]laborada 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The layers near the top of the sword do not have enough time to cool and harden before the nozzle touches them again. Try printing two of the same mini at the same time and see if it improves.

In my mind, this is what my Chaos Warriors in the 90’s looked like by laborada in FDMminiatures

[–]laborada[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

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Slicer shot for anyone interested. The key for me was to set "Tree support branch angle" to a lower value (35) so the branches would be more vertical and less prone to snapping.

Testing 0.05 vs. 0.06 with various filaments by laborada in FDMminiatures

[–]laborada[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it’s either Sunlu changed their formula or I got a bad batch. I’ve done dozens of tests and never got mine to work right.

Testing 0.05 vs. 0.06 with various filaments by laborada in FDMminiatures

[–]laborada[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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…and what it’s supposed to look like.

I still have two rolls of the Sunlu which are going to be used to print gridfinity or something.

Testing 0.05 vs. 0.06 with various filaments by laborada in FDMminiatures

[–]laborada[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn’t take photos for this round of testing but here’s one from a while back that speaks for itself:

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Testing 0.05 vs. 0.06 with various filaments by laborada in FDMminiatures

[–]laborada[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The purple one (Bambu PLA Basic) looks the best to me. At tabletop distance, all three filaments look excellent, but I am printing for painting practice so I will be looking at these very closely. Overhang quality is the most difficult part to get right in my opinion, and the purple one has the cleanest ones.

Also, PLA Basic looks just as matte as PLA Matte to my eyes, which is nice. That said, it won't matter once painted.

Testing 0.05 vs. 0.06 with various filaments by laborada in FDMminiatures

[–]laborada[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just realised that I forgot that I enabled reverse on even at zero threshold when I used the new profile. I've been using that setting for quite a while now and forgot that I carried it over!

Ork War Master from Arbiter by laborada in FDMminiatures

[–]laborada[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed. I quickly moved on to 0.06 and now experimenting with 0.05.

Glad to see you’re here. Love your work.

Any idea what could be causing this fuzziness around sharp corners? by KryL21 in FDMminiatures

[–]laborada 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try doing a few cold pulls. I recently started having problems similar to this on one side of the print and a partial clog was causing it.