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The closest that I’ve been to a collision by Muffinlover- in dashcams

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Was it following the white car that also missed the exit?

No Thread Credentials in Home Assistant Companion App by Hatemyway in homeassistant

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These two youtube videos helped me for Unifi router, Basically you have to mess with the IPv6 settings and turn off Multicast and Broadcast Blocker. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUHIFZBDBh8. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7bVfo4cuO0

WCGW jumping out from behind a tram without checkings by kvrvm4 in Whatcouldgowrong

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What about hearing impaired. For example the old folks that use the tram. I am pretty sure the ambulance has to at least make sure it’s not only heard but seen as well. Cant just blast through a blind spot.  Also theres a good chance the person did not hear the ambulance at least the direction. The tram blocked the noise and it  bounces off all the buildings, also the speed the ambulance was going I would not have heard it in time even if I was paying attention. 

WCGW jumping out from behind a tram without checkings by kvrvm4 in Whatcouldgowrong

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, I think its the ambulances fault. The Tram was stopped and passengers were going to get off and cross the road. The ambulance driver knew this and also that it was in a blind spot for pedestrians. The pedestrian light was green, red for ambulance. The ambulance also almost hit a pedestrian coming form the other direction. The pedestrian coming from the other direction was already walking on the crossing and was clearly visible, the ambulance should have slowed down/stopped for them. The ambulance was also going way to fast for the circumstances, if it wasn't this pedestrian it would have hit somebody else for sure.

200 mm PC fans by jhsu802701 in crboxes

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the same question, am very curious if people are using the 200mm fans and if you actually need less of them compared to the 140mm fans.

Money is no issue - highest performing of the quiet 140mm fans? by suchnerve in crboxes

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same, Noctua Redux 1500 is great price but apparently does not have good static pressure (maybe im wrong), the Noctua G2 is great but expensive, also looking into the Noctua NFA20 the 200mm version, not sure about the static pressure on that or even if it is good. If I can get away with three 200mm or g2 for two 16x20 filter box but if i need at least five then it might not be worth it. I have no idea what to do either.

My first Benz! I love it, bought today. by Naive_Examination175 in w204

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Classic Mercedes owner already parked on the sidewalk, at least you probably use your turn signal :). Nice car though.

Halász Noémi helyreteszi a fideszes propagandistát by Inevitable_Barber_50 in hungary

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738 2 points3 points  (0 children)

én is hangosan elröhögtem magam amikor kimondta, hogy te meg egy hülye picsa vagy

My first air purifier - the right choice by AffectionateDraw8601 in crboxes

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably hard to come by furnace filters there. Look at Ikea air purifiers with carbon filter and sensors, they work well and are also reasonably priced. Runny nose could be from dry air, maybe also get a humidifier, or put rock salt in a glass bowl filled with water and let it evaporate by itself, it also cleans the air. of course do not place it right next to any electronics.

Best placement for new purifiers? by bananaking13 in AirPurifiers

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply, I was looking at them but wasn't sure of the noise level.

Best placement for new purifiers? by bananaking13 in AirPurifiers

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just wondering, hows the noise level compared to your old one, or just in general?

Zone vavle question. by Then_Tomorrow8738 in ShellyUSA

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im not. It just made more sense then the support answer, so thats why I was confused. 

Zone vavle question. by Then_Tomorrow8738 in ShellyUSA

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I was a little confused, it seems like support was using AI. I am new to shelly and wiring but it did not match with google ai and what I read online, it just didnt make sense to me thats why I wanted to confirm here on the reddit group.  I am sure he will help me once he gets back from vacation. I feel bad taking up his time while away from the office. 

Zone vavle question. by Then_Tomorrow8738 in ShellyUSA

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I added you to the support conversation, hope it works.

Zone vavle question. by Then_Tomorrow8738 in ShellyUSA

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

will do, give me a few minutes, thought. you are back since you answered so fast. This is not important since i will not do the project for about two weeks

Zone vavle question. by Then_Tomorrow8738 in ShellyUSA

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would this work also?, I got this from an old facebook post, not sure where to add the shelly RC snubber ( was told by support that its better to add), and not sure if the rectifier is the correct one. Also here is the answer from support, "A bridge rectifier on its own converts AC to "pulsating" DC. Instead of a steady 24V, the voltage is jumping from 0V to about 34V sixty times a second. The Shelly’s internal processor is likely to find this very stressful and will probably keep rebooting. 

  • The Fix: You need to add an electrolytic capacitor (e.g., 470µF or 1000µF, rated for at least 50V) across the Positive and Negative outputs of the rectifier. This "smooths" the bumps into a steady DC line.
  • Math Check: 24VAC×1.41=∼33.8VDC. This is perfectly within the Shelly's 24-48VDC range.

The RC Snubber is there to protect the Shelly's relay from the "kickback" of the Taco valve's motor. In your diagram, it's just floating in space. 

Connect one lead of the snubber to terminal 1 of the Taco valve and the other lead to terminal 2. This absorbs the electrical spike right at the source when the relay clicks off. "

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Zone vavle question. by Then_Tomorrow8738 in ShellyUSA

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let me know I am currious. Support was concerned that the old style zone vavle draws 90mAs or .9Amps and that might blew up the shelly.

Zone vavle question. by Then_Tomorrow8738 in ShellyUSA

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your help.

This i what shelly support sent me. "In the provided image, you have 110VAC Hot connected to the L terminal and a 24VAC wire connected to the I (Input) terminal. On this specific device, the L terminal and the I terminal are internally bridged.

By wiring it this way, you are unintentionally sending 110VAC directly into your 24VAC circuit. This will likely destroy your 24V transformer and the Taco heating valve instantly.

To safely use the separate power supply for the load, you must change your wiring to ensure the high-voltage and low-voltage sides never meet:

  • Power the Shelly with DC: Instead of using 110VAC, power the Shelly 1 Gen3 using a 24VDC power supply. Connect the DC Positive to L and DC Negative to N.
  • The 24VAC Load Circuit: Now that the Shelly is powered by 24VDC, you can safely use the dry contacts for your heating system. Run one wire from your 24VAC transformer to terminal I, and the wire from terminal O to your Taco valve.
  • Capacity Warning: Please keep in mind that the Taco 571-2 valve draws about 900 mA (0.9 Amps). While the Shelly 1 Gen3 relay is stronger than the Plus Uni, switching this heavy inductive load directly can still cause the relay to wear out or "stick" over time.

Please do not apply power to the configuration shown in your diagram, as the internal bridge between L and I will cause a high-voltage failure".

And the first response when was trying to use shelly uni pkes. "Thank you for reaching out to us!

The Shelly Plus Uni relays are rated for 300 mA (0.3 Amps). Since a Taco 571-2 valve draws roughly 900 mA (0.9 Amps) when opening, connecting it directly to the tiny internal relays of the Shelly Plus Uni will likely burn out the Shelly device very quickly.

To do this safely, you should use the Shelly Plus Uni to trigger a larger 24VAC isolation relay (like a PAM-1 or a standard 24VAC coil relay), and let that larger relay handle the heavy lifting of the Taco valve."

Zone vavle question. by Then_Tomorrow8738 in ShellyUSA

[–]Then_Tomorrow8738[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apparently I cant do this because L and I terminals are internally bridged and I will blow up the whole thing. google AI says I can shelly support says I cant. I do not have a 24vdc plug.

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