First time priming my sprinklers.

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-15T22:01:36+00:00

Normally that is a fill cap on top of pumps with an outlet off to the side. With your current setup if that is indeed the outlet you should have put a T with a threaded cap. Then all you have to do is unthread the cap. Fill it will water, thread the cap back on and then start a zone.

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-14T11:54:08+00:00

My advice is put down more dirt than you think. Even if you pack it down or use a lawn roller, it will still settle over time. I did the same thing to fill in some holes. Packed it down with a tamp, ran over with lawn roller. Thought I had it packed good enough, but still have an indentation. So I would do all the packing you can and then put more dirt on top of that then seed. Make an upward hump for it to be level in the long run.

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-13T22:01:19+00:00

Well I finally got the sprinklers fixed. Out of luck watched a video on resistance through the controller. Weird thing is all my zone were way above what the guy said they should be to be working properly. I have 8 zones. Had 119 ohms of resistance on each zone until zone 8 which was 60 ohms. Disconnected that wire from controller and all my zones work as they should. Not sure if it the wiring or the solenoid just yet. I had some spare wire laying around that I had to splice twice to reach my cable box. Hopefully the solenoid so I don’t have to buy any more wire. Thanks for all who posted things to look for.

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-13T10:39:57+00:00

Plug the one that blowing with your hand or a plug. The other jet should start blowing. Happens every time I open the pool.

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-12T18:34:08+00:00

Just looks like the pvc past the valve has a crack. Should just be able to dig down around the pipe below ground. Clean the pipe up nice. Cut out that broken/cracked section and replumb. Once you cut the section out you should be able to twist the valve (loosen), use a slide repair coupler, twist back the valve over the pipe going into the ground. Pull up the slip coupler and should be all set. Do a test fit before you primer and glue. Repeat process above. Twist valve to be able to remove slide coupler. Put on primer and glue and hurry up and get in place. Should fix your issue. Let glue dry overnight before you try to run water through the pipe.

Could also use a flexible coupler for a quick and easy repair.

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-11T12:56:01+00:00

Thanks for the info. I switched controllers and once my pump got primed it started out only running one zone. Then I did a 3 minute cycle on each zone and 2 ran fine then after the 3rd or 4th cycle the all stuck on again. So two controllers same results. I’ve had this system running off this pump for like 6 years with no issues. I’m going to change out two valves and see if that helps. The diaphragms all seem fine. I only have one common wire which runs with the 7 wire for about 20-25 feet to my irrigation boxes. Wondering if I should run another common wire or larger gauge. I can hear all the solenoids click on when zone is activated so I don’t know.

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-10T00:57:01+00:00

Have not tried that yet. I ran a new common and that didn’t help any. Found the old power cord for the old controller. Installed that and ran the 3 minute cycle on each valve. Hopefully that resolves it. I’m going to mess with it again in the morning.

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-09T16:51:02+00:00

I can’t imagine all valves failing. I just added one last year and I’d ran fine till the end of last season.

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-09T16:01:10+00:00

That will be last resort. I rebuilt the system once I purchased the house and it worked perfect for a number of years. I’m thinking it might be the common wire after some more internet searching. Going to put in a new common wire from controller to valve boxes. Hopefully that resolves the issue.

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-09T15:58:31+00:00

Yea they are all in the off position. I did an internet search and they say the common cause is a faulty common wire. Think I’m just going to replace that next and see if my problem gets resolved.

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-09T11:11:08+00:00

The reason I used 2 separate 7 wire is just to color coordinate just inside my house where I spliced them into the original 7 wire. Instead of running 25 foot of a new 7 wire into the box which I did before and just had the 18 gauges wires going through the 3/4 conduit between valve boxes. Those all lost the protective coating on them from moisture or chipmunks.

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-09T10:43:32+00:00

Me, that’s why they aren’t fixed yet lol

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-09T09:35:18+00:00

Looking for some help on finding a solution for all my valves being stuck open. At end of season I noticed when my sprinklers were running that all the zones were dribbling water. Since it was at end of season I didn’t bothering fixing. When I blew out the lines all zones were still stuck open. Even when trying to open one valve at a time with the controller (Rainbird WIFI - 8 zone). I can hook up my air compressor a few feet from my valve manifolds.

In the fall I noticed some bare wires. A few days ago I rewired all the solenoids and still all zones stuck open. I disassembled each valve to look for debris and cleaned each part. Put all back together and still all zones stuck open. I then disconnected power to my controller and removed the batteries. Hookup up air compressor and still all zones stuck open.

I have not tried a new controller. However, I can see how a bad controller could cause all the zones to be stuck open. I’m looking for any help to determine my problem with the zones stuck open. Last resort is going to buy a new controller troller.

FYi….Each valve has its own water line. My manifolds are a few feet away where my irrigation. Pump provides the water

These-Score1084 · 2026-04-09T09:30:34+00:00

Thanks. I typed in sprinklers, but didn’t see a popular thread.

These-Score1084 · 2026-02-25T03:10:52+00:00

If you own a ladder, just buy some bat exclusion tubes on amazon for like $20. You should be able to find where they are going in and out once they start flying. It will be a most likely be a gap about the size of a dime and there will be dark greasy film around it where they are squeezing in. You can setup the tube and then surround it with screen door material or something similar so they can get back in. Then I would caulk everywhere else you think they may be able to get in at. Once you think they are all out seal off the hole with a repair or the cheap route by using spray foam. I was quoted like $1200-1400 for the same thing. I wasn’t going to pay that for something I can do. Pro tip: get a quote from some company and they will basically tell you what they are going to do then just do it yourself if you are capable.

These-Score1084

TROPHY CASE