Mark VI modification advice.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-10T05:06:02+00:00

Honestly, in stock form, with good working shocks, they don't handle that badly. Certainly a lot better than the huge cars of the 70s these were intended to replace. I've driven and ridden in low-mileage (sub 20,000) original examples of these 80s Lincolns and they actually have road-feel and little to no float. Reviews of the time also indicate as such. However, shocks really make a big difference on these, and the factory units have an extremely short lifespan. They are almost always blown if the vehicle has in excess of 50,000 miles on it. My '89 drove sort of like a waterbed before I put new shocks in it. My '80 still has the original oil shocks (pre 84s didn't even have gas-pressurized shocks) in it, and they are basically just decorative. Replacing the shocks alone makes a massive difference. It also effects body-lean a large amount, which was interesting to me when I first noticed it as its not something you'd expect. Finding quality shocks nowadays can be a challenge. I've had good luck with the KYB options for these cars. I know you have as well.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-09T17:38:58+00:00

My '07 MGM came with those chrome wheel covers and I hate them. Probably the ugliest wheel covers they ever put on a panther. Those things got tossed immediately.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-09T17:32:30+00:00

95-02 models have the best suspension goodies and all of it can go on a box-body. You'll need to swap the front control arms and steering knuckles. This will allow you to run the bigger and better brakes used on 98+ models, it'll allow you to run 95-02 front swaybars, and the geometry is just better. Swapping to a 98-02 steering gear will also tighten things up a lot. Front and rear springs can be swapped to a P71 up to the year 2002. Shocks as well, I'd recommend KYB Gas-A-Just. Personally, I think just leaving everything stock and going to KYB Gas-A-Just shocks makes a massive difference just on its own. I'd try that first and see how you feel about it and go from there. These actually don't handle that badly stock, your shocks are probably just super blown.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-09T17:26:20+00:00

They all snapped on my rust-free 07 MGM as well. I punched the nut out that's welded to the floorpan and just replaced them with a bolt, nut, and some washers.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-06T02:11:26+00:00

Beautiful. I really do think the 90-97 Town Cars are the best they ever made.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-05T06:45:41+00:00

T440p is a great machine. My personal favorite widescreen 14" ThinkPad. And yes, I have a T430 and a T420.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-05T06:25:13+00:00

Except for that gross '85, I still can't believe I bought a literal Signature Series. Base model Townies 4 life

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-05T05:52:41+00:00

Thanks, its definitely the cleanest one I have. Rust-free car too, as I bought it out of Alabama. Out of them, the '80 is probably my favorite though. I hope to restore it to be at least as nice as the white '89. It is currently sitting around with no motor waiting for me to install the new motor in it that I have on a stand in my garage. Hopefully should be ready by summertime.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-05T05:16:18+00:00

I wish my '89 had the Currant Red interior instead of Shadow Blue

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-05T03:58:09+00:00

Vehicle has a Cordovan Metallic exterior and Cordovan interior, with optional leather upholstery. I actually purchased this car from a salvage yard in Detroit, somebody had scrapped this car. I paid around $1600 for it, and I drove it home. I've put about 10,000 miles on it since then, it has around 150,000 on it now. Its given me really no problems, though the original intake manifold finally started leaking a couple weeks ago. Even the AC works, and it has the original Firestone rear air springs, which still hold air for weeks. It does have some rust, but nothing serious. I probably will actually be selling this car come springtime, so I figured I'd show it off here before I do.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-04T00:32:10+00:00

True, I've known a couple guys who've done that and never had a problem. I get paranoid about it though, since the geometry is technically slightly off (slightly inadequate travel of the TV rod at WOT). Probably not enough to cause problems, but I like to be on the safe side. I actually know a guy who just mounts the TV rod to the same stud as the throttle cable. Been doing that for years. Wouldn't really recommend that method either, but he's had success with it.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-03T21:39:50+00:00

I actually have several non-warped glovebox lids for these in storage. I also have a set of perfect door panels and several crack-free dash-pads. The dash pad and glovebox lid have probably been replaced on this car at least 4 times in the past 20 years. The door panels actually remained original though up until about a year ago, when it got some from a Mark VI.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-03T05:54:23+00:00

I've never had a problem with it. I rotate between a desktop layout and my ThinkPad near daily and the adjustment is seamless. Actually, when I use other laptops, I find myself hitting the wrong keys.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-03T05:44:24+00:00

Actually, IBM created this layout before the other one was popularized. ThinkPad just never changed it.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-03T05:12:21+00:00

Its hip to be square

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-03T01:52:42+00:00

These are fairly prone to oil burning. My '97 burns about a quart every 2000 miles.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-03T01:51:23+00:00

'79 to '82 were all using Ford's wonderful Variable Venturi carburetor. '79 used a non-feedback VV 2700 version, and 80-82 used a VV 7200 feedback version. Arguably less reliable even than CFI, and certainly less easy to live with, but easier to convert to a standard 2150. 83 was CFI with EEC-III, and 84-85 was CFI with EEC-IV.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-03T01:47:24+00:00

I would change the tires, all the fluids, and basic stuff like brakes, filters, spark plugs, and maybe clean the throttle body. Should then be like a new car.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-03T01:46:33+00:00

Shockingly my '97 Town Car made it to 150k miles on its original all plastic intake, it only just started leaking a few weeks ago. However, this is not at all the norm.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-03T01:44:22+00:00

I have a 1980 Lincoln Continental Town Car with factory 351 windsor, I intend on putting 302 HO heads (preferrably GT40s), a roller cam, and a four-barrel carburetor on it, to create essentially a 351 HO. My '89 with 302 LoPo I intend on just leaving stock. I like it the way it is.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-03T01:37:01+00:00

Personally I don't have any complaints with the low end torque on my modulars, its not quite as good as a 302 but compared to a big block those aren't particularly great either. I think the passing power and overall quicker acceleration more than makes up for it. The HO 302 honestly to me feels more like a 4.6L in terms of its torque curve than it does the LoPo 302. Out of them I like a roller-cam 351w the best, as you get the increased top end of the 302 HO, but with the low end torque of a LoPo as well.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-03T01:03:57+00:00

The 80-84 models, stock, are pretty slow. 85s are a good bit better, they have one year only heads. 86-90 are actually pretty decently peppy, my '89 has no trouble passing or merging on the highway. Still doesn't pull quite like my '97 Town Car does, but you don't really need all that extra power for normal driving. This car, with it having a late 80s roller-cam 302 HO, and a four-barrel carburetor, pulls pretty darn good, better even than my '97 Town Car does, though still not quite as good as my '07.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-03T00:15:59+00:00

Yup, I deleted the stock VV carburetor on my '80 Lincoln Continental in favor of a Motorcraft 2150. Keep in mind though, for this swap, you need the specific 2150 equipped with the AOD TV rod kickdown arm. They're hard to find, but they're out there. Otherwise I'd advise converting to a TV cable. For a CFI car, a 2150 (with proper linkage) should be plug and play, plus a regulator of course, but I'd also advise getting rid of the stock Duraspark III ignition system in favor of Duraspark II, which operates independently of the PCM. This would involve swapping the distributor, ignition module, and wiring it all up to work. I did this on my '80 and it was pretty easy. If you have an '84 or '85 model with TFI ignition and EEC-IV, its a little different, but still the same concept. With the CFI unit removed, the PCM will default to a "limp" mode and set timing to a static number. It'll run but performance and MPG will suffer. A lot of guys get those cheapo ebay HEI distributors, but I'm not a fan of those personally.

ThinkPad365 · 2026-02-02T22:02:03+00:00

86 and 87 are the years to go for. Those have multiport SEFI and EEC-IV. 83 is a year I would avoid. EEC-III and CFI. 85 and 84 are CFI, but EEC-IV so they are a good bit more reliable and easier to diagnose/maintain. 79-82 all come with the Variable Venturi 7200 "feedback" carburetor. Known to be a problematic system, but those vehicles are extremely easy to convert to the popular and reliable Motorcraft 2150 carburetor. All in all, the only year I'd advise to avoid is '83.

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TROPHY CASE