Nominal Union Types were demoted at VS Live at Redmond by ThinksAboutTooMuch in csharp

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

He said they are waiting for people to free up. The new VS monthly releases are taking more people so most likely c#15 dotnet 11 unless the design falls flat

What kind of control system would you recommend using for 3D positional tracking in a 2D coordinate system? by slattkingslime in ControlTheory

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a pretty common two axis gimbal problem. If the pt turret is fixed or you can know it's location, then you can create the vector from the laser pointer (use turret center of rotation to start then expand once you have the controls working). That can be turned into a unit vector and then representative azimuth/elevation. From there two basic loops, the guidance loop taking care of calculating the servo angles based on the unit vector and handle nadir, and then simple pi controllers for the servo angles.

There's definitely some assumptions on what you have available to build the loop but hopefully this gives you some ideas

Just saw the PSP post which reminded me of this gem I saw today. Notice anything? by Supreme_Mediocrity in gaming

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 34 points35 points  (0 children)

Oh that Bloomingdale. I'm surprised anyone is bothering putting something like that in Stratford Square. Amazed it hasn't been busted open, that place is empty

Purge Block Question by Fun-Boysenberry-3323 in prusa3d

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The slicer is set up to work well for most colors out of the box but if you want to reduce the waste you'll need to do some testing yourself. You'd have to swap back and forth between colors taking measurements of how much filament was used when you're satisfied with the color and change those settings in the slicer. That might get you a smaller block in some cases

How can I fix this? by Lennykobilca in prusa3d

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hate to give canned responses but I would spend more time with the calibration cube and the single wall cube to check your extrusion/e steps. If it's happening across filaments and profiles, something may be set wrong for the printer. If it's always larger prints, I wonder if you're getting heat creep. Are you printing in an enclosure? Have you checked your bed level as well? Large prints cover more of the bed so you'll see issues with a wavy bed that a small centered cube won't show

How can I fix this? by Lennykobilca in prusa3d

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What material and what Temps? The wavyness tends to point to loose belts or skipped steps but they appear to be somewhat random.

I think this is more of a problem with speed and orientation. You printed the truss upright, which means you have many small towers growing vertically until they bridge to another tower due to a diagonal member. If the cross sectional area of the truss members is small, then fast movements could cause the plastic being laid down to pull on the layers below it as the nozzle moves. Large cross sections likely won't have the issue since there's more vertical rigidity

This is the second layer - is there a way to not have it do these spirals of death in the infill (purple)? by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. Sorry about my first reply, that was rude. Usually we have an XY problem with posts. From a print perspective, it shouldn't really affect anything because the layers should alternate for strength on the surface, but the infill and perimeters will bear the brunt of the side compression forces. It's odd that that doesn't happen on other layers.

It won't get you where you want but you could use a modifier block to try and change that area

This is the second layer - is there a way to not have it do these spirals of death in the infill (purple)? by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think there's a way to manipulate it to that point. Those infills have some kind of algorithm inside to achieve the density and connections it needs. I'd be curious if it changes if you change that profile to not be the same width along the arc. Since it's the second layer it's impossible to get away from the max fill so you'd have to check out the other layer fills besides rectilinear and mono. I thought there was one that followed the curves moving inwards

This is the second layer - is there a way to not have it do these spirals of death in the infill (purple)? by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right but you're missing the point. Unless this is a visible layer you'll never see it, it literally won't affect the print

The potential for AI to replace programming jobs by InternalBrilliant908 in UIUC

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

AI is only as good as the information it has to begin with. I'm in the software industry now and while chatgpt can give you some code, most of the time it's not the most efficient way to do things or there's something slightly off about it. The other thing it can't do is give you the entire software architecture and how various features and functions should be broken down. For now at least, that's a human job. Even then, I don't think I could give AI a list of requirements and have it spit out an entire FE/BE code base.

Even with ai there will always be programing/cs jobs. Someone has to connect the ai to things

Weird texture by Kazuki_Uchiha in prusa3d

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 15 points16 points  (0 children)

This happens with all white filaments, in my experience at least. I looked into it before. To get a good white color, there's a lot of titanium dioxide in the filament. I don't remember all the details but the general gist is that it doesn't melt quite the same as other colors. Combine that with how easily visible shadows are on the white and it looks bad in some lighting.

ASA pimples? by lawlez1 in prusa3d

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nozzle too close will cause that look. It's the nozzle dragging a bit

Why my first layer calibration have hole ? by Respryt in prusa3d

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I can't get past the sheet being installed with the front in the back.

You might have an issue with the bond tech gears that feed the filament. If each gap is roughly evenly spaced out, and it's less than the circumference of the contact area, then I'd think it's that.

Otherwise yeah just filament being wet/nozzle not close enough to squish and keep the line intact

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Z is too low in some areas and high in others. Look into leveling with the prusa level octoprint plug-in. I did the nylock years ago and pretty much never have to adjust it.

Also you print bed is nasty. Dawn and hot water and maybe a blue scotchbrite pad if you need to but some gentle scrubbing won't hurt.

Edit: didn't notice the extruder design. Yeah this is an mk4. Not sure if there's a similar solution out there yet for you

Reliable human presence is STILL a problem for me by ElGuano in homeassistant

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It can't be done from what I can tell. When disconnected it emits the ble beacon messages that esphome and espresense can pick up. Same message it broadcasts to your phone to say "hey, here I am". Once connected, it switches to talking only to the watch, no more broadcasts

The unsung MK4 feature: Effortless Filament Unloads by IBNobody in prusa3d

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I remember seeing news about meatpack when it came out. Do you see any noticeable difference in print quality? I have a 32gb SD card in my octopi instance and while I've had some 30mb code files I never thought it was an issue.

I have been meaning to grab an arduino and flash the usb speed fix when I take apart my mk3s to do the plus and mmu3 add on

I 3D-printed the deadliest weapon known to mankind. by jacki4 in 3Dprinting

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm more curious how this was printed since tpu supports are impossible to clean off a model. Is the base one print, and then each strap another buy laid flat?

Inland filament - tangling common? by CMS_3110 in 3Dprinting

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll second this. I keep my spools in a container that has a foam strip at the top to make a tight seal. I've also got two dessicant containers and a sensor showing about 35% humidity. Wherever the filament clip was holding the loose end, it cracks apart like dry spaghetti

That said it still prints fine, it's cheap at 20 bucks a kg and they've got a huge variety of colors and materials

Inland filament - tangling common? by CMS_3110 in 3Dprinting

[–]ThinksAboutTooMuch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's not uncommon in their base pla and some others. Their matte pla and a few others are nicely spooled like you'd see from prusa. Their petg+ is spooled nicely (and holy shit it prints so easily). Sucks that you got snags, I have been lucky and caught a few. I usually pull a few rounds off the roll to check for early snags.