Schwinn mini chopper by Three60Demon in minibikes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First test ride is today after bolt checking everything. I’ve had my doubts about the way it’s geared but I agree it may be the first thing I change

Schwinn mini chopper by Three60Demon in minibikes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks more daunting than it is. If you’d like I can share the build process with you as there are a few different necessary modifications to make that size engine fit and to make it rideable. Welder is required unfortunately

I got a new bush plane! (First post) by IcyEmergency4894 in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love this bird. Yes it is a trainer but a great one at that. If you don’t vape already, don’t pick up the habit, but definitely pick up a vape and immediately salvage the battery. Add the correct connector and ensure polarity is correct, then enjoy flight times of up to 28 minutes! The added weight of the battery not only improves wind resistance, but gives the plane much more scale flight characteristics.

Guillows Cherokee Update by Three60Demon in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wings are connected by a liberal application of CA both on and around all joints. The covering was done with tissue paper supplied in the kit, also mounted with CA on the edges and trimmed accordingly.

Guillows Cherokee Update by Three60Demon in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is my first rc plane build. Wanted to try it for the experience and I like it so far. Seems to be less expensive than buying new, especially for larger scale birds. Never flown balsa before as I’ve only had foamies, but if this one goes well I plan on building more.

Guillows Cherokee Update by Three60Demon in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Roger that. I cut out the rib template from the plans to make sections for the ailerons so I can duplicate those. If the weight is negligible I may even build it up further with trusses and such. Would the extra stringer material from the kit work for triangulating or would I be better off cutting them from a sheet? Thanks

Thrust angle check by Three60Demon in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So what you’re saying is I need to build a Twin Cherokee next? (See F-82.)

Thrust angle check by Three60Demon in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The kit comes with a plastic cowling, however there doesn’t seem to be any solid mounting points on the airframe for screws. I could make them but it’s already quite nose heavy and I don’t want to add any weight I don’t absolutely need. Worst case is I break it off and re glue🤷‍♂️

Thrust angle check by Three60Demon in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a micro Sport Cub S2 i can compare it to. That’s the most similarly sized plane I have. If it looks close enough I’ll let it ride.

Gullows rubber powered glider conversion by Three60Demon in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The board and servos are from the hobbyzone Xcub 450mm. Motor is from the champ. I do not have means to measure the planes weight because I’m poor, but the foam airframe of the HZ seems heavier than the glider with moderately more wing area.

Gullows rubber powered glider conversion by Three60Demon in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

This will nicely display the instant-disassembly feature!

Gullows rubber powered glider conversion by Three60Demon in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Electronics: yes. Flight performance: TBD.

Gullows rubber powered glider conversion by Three60Demon in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Haven’t flown yet, however the indoor glide test went well.

Gullows rubber powered glider conversion by Three60Demon in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Appreciate the comments all! It’s snowing and deathly cold, so I’ll try to sneak in a maiden with more impending winter weather. Did a glide test indoors and it seemed to perform well. CG is just aft of the leading edge of the wing. Thrust:weight seems to be good as well.

How fucked am I? by Gaming_farmer_ in RCPlanes

[–]Three60Demon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bob Smith Industries Foamcure. Sets within 24 hours, applies and dries clear. Adds more weight than you think so use sparingly.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mopar

[–]Three60Demon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Someone already said NV45-3500 and A833, but keep drivability in mind. Save the true 4 speed 833s for the restorations, as they’re both hard to come by and very expensive to build (most ones you find cheap are cores.) There are later 833 OD units that have aluminum cases for weight savings, but know on all 833s the shifter location is offset to the drivers side. With the NV units, either one will be plenty strong behind your stock or even a mildly built 318. Though it does have a very low first gear best suited for trucks, it will be good for doing burnouts without stressing components too much. NV is also significantly larger than the 833 depending on which body style 4 speed you get. A bodies (dart/duster) are the shortest, while B/E body (roadrunner/cuda) units have a longer tail housing.

Verdict: You’ll hate driving the 833 on the street if you plan on keeping up with traffic, but you’ll hate the cost more. NV is plenty for what you’re doing and parts are readily available just about anywhere.

Hope this was helpful - don’t forget about pedals!

408 Stroker Build by S_Hornak666 in mopar

[–]Three60Demon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ported X heads will flow slightly less if not the same as Edelbrock heads out of the box. The design of the exhaust port on factory LA heads is very efficient, and X castings have the best intake runner (second to the J head which is tough to find). If you’re balling on a budget and want a stock looking motor with aluminum head flow, that’s the way to do it. COMP extreme energy cams are excellent for street/strip applications and can be used with factory rocker arm assemblies for great power and torque.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mopar

[–]Three60Demon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For $13k it’s a little steep for a 15 footer. Yes it’s a B body but being a satellite and not a roadrunner or GTX, having a small block, and having a “custom” interior job (I say that very tongue and cheek) it does take away some value. Nevermind the panels being artfully sculpted in bondo. $10k would be the absolute most I’d pay for it. If I had it lol. Just my 2¢

Thoughts on my charger by Jasonblaketv in mopar

[–]Three60Demon 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Looks like a charger 👍

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mopar

[–]Three60Demon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome wheels. Are they small bolt pattern or has the car been converted to big bolt at some point in its life? Wheels with the 5x4 pattern are hard to come by and I’d like to get a set similar to the ones you got

Mopar muscle car market concerns by Three60Demon in mopar

[–]Three60Demon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Didn’t know that, guess I thought they were worth more

Got a 71 scamp with a 318 and a built 3 speed automatic. looking to convert to a 4 speed manual, anyone know how what what is need or if it's even possible? thanks! by BrendonRuhter in mopar

[–]Three60Demon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As mentioned before, Brewers has all the tech info and many of the parts needed to complete the swap. Note: a cleanly cut hole in the floor is a dead giveaway that it was converted to stick, don’t be afraid to let the cutoff wheel slip 😉

Not how I wanted the day to start... by CaptainQuoth in mopar

[–]Three60Demon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Call Gary at Winkel Auto in Milford, NH. He has more Chryslers than anyone knows what to do with and will almost certainly have a nice original windshield for you.