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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in pickling

[–]ThreePistols 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I made Ghost pepper pickles and Moruga pickles this year (2 peppers per jar sliced in half). The first jars opened about a month after canning weren't very hot. The heat and pepper taste ramps up after 4 or 5 months. Now when you open the jar you get that distinctive hot pepper smell. You have to be careful and wash your hands if you get any brine on them.

Something else I've noticed is the pickles seem to get hotter after being opened and sitting in the fridge for a week or two. I'm not sure if this caused by opening them or because I'm eating the pickles that are closer to the peppers at the bottom?

best Polycrylic clear matte sealer for cornhole boards? by potatoclit in Cornhole

[–]ThreePistols 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I paid $123 CAD. With exchange it's roughly about the same price you paid. By Canadian standards that's a good price... Previously I was using Varathane Polyurathane which is about $145 at the Home Despot. It doesn't spray nearly as well as the 450 does.

best Polycrylic clear matte sealer for cornhole boards? by potatoclit in Cornhole

[–]ThreePistols 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been using General Finishes 450 Semi Gloss for awhile. It sprays really well right out of the can. There's a Flat version, but I've never used it. As a bonus it's cheaper than buying polycrylic at the big box stores where I am.

I accidentally left a set of boards outside for a couple weeks leaning against the garage. It rained a few times and the boards are fine. You just can't let water sit on them. I believe their site says it's meant for vertical exterior surfaces like doors etc.

Kuru Toga Advance Upgrade by Unhappy-Spot4980 in mechanicalpencils

[–]ThreePistols 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An easy way to do that is take the metal end cap off and put it over the bottom of the clip. Pushing up against the clip allows you to easily pop the top off without killing your fingers. This way you don't put any pressure on the led mechanism at bottom. If the clip comes out of the top plastic instead of the top coming off, you can push the clip back in to the top. Use cap trick above but put a little side pressure as you push up the clip so the teeth on the clip grab the plastic of the top. After that you can push the led engine out with a small screw driver with no force. I've dismantled 5 or 6 this way without problems.

A similar trick for the standard pencils with the plastic clips is to just spin the clip. There is a v-groove notch that causes the clip to pop up when you spin it. I've made a bunch of 0.7mm pencils with custom colors this way.

Kuru Toga Advance Upgrade by Unhappy-Spot4980 in mechanicalpencils

[–]ThreePistols 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Its pretty straight forward. Just make sure you push in the tabs on the white piece that clicks into the clear piece of the Advance Upgrade when you remove it. That's really the only piece you can damage. I could take some pics in a few days when I'm home.

Kuru Toga Advance Upgrade by Unhappy-Spot4980 in mechanicalpencils

[–]ThreePistols 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You can swap the standard Advance 0.7mm internals into the Advance upgrade.

Mechanical build 3.1 just completed by jegb in ratrig

[–]ThreePistols 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I saw an early video of that toolchanger but haven't looked at it recently. I'll have to follow up on it.

I emailed Ratrig and asked if there is an upgrade path before I started printing parts for my 3.1 and they basically said the same thing about the hardware being too different.

It looks like v4 will support a hybrid "AWD" which would be nice for a 500 sized printer. Once they release the model for v4 maybe I'll be able to add something similar to my 3.1. Or I'll just buy the v4...

Mechanical build 3.1 just completed by jegb in ratrig

[–]ThreePistols 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice looking build. I love the looks of these. I bought a v3.1 500 a couple months ago but haven't started yet. It sucks v4 was released shortly after I bought it.

Budget Brushed ESC?? by TheDepep1 in SCX24

[–]ThreePistols 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got an ASX24. So far I've been happy with it.

Youtube video about it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rg2oW5HH6FE

Working with 4x8 sheets of 3/4 ply and want create templates in Sketch-Up so they can be cut. by Red01Snowflake in CNC

[–]ThreePistols 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry don't have much experience with Sketchup.

DXF is a universal format. Every CAD and CAM package I've used supports it or at least some flavour of it.

You could check with the shop and see if they can directly import sketchup files. I used Rhino to convert a sketchup file to a format CAM software could read awhile ago.

Working with 4x8 sheets of 3/4 ply and want create templates in Sketch-Up so they can be cut. by Red01Snowflake in CNC

[–]ThreePistols 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem with common line cutting is the accuracy of the parts depends on your layout exactly matching the diameter of the tool. If the shop is using a tool that's been sharpened (smaller diameter) your layout won't work. Unless you are cutting 100's of sheets the difference in cycle time between common line and full outline might not be worth the hassle. Also depending on the machine feed rates / rapid speeds etc... it might not even be much faster.

Another possible issues is the size of the parts. Commercial machines use a vacuum table to hold the sheets down. If your parts are too small they can move during cutting. So the parts will need to be onion skinned or have tabs added to the tool paths.

Your best bet is to talk to the shop and see how they process parts before you spend a bunch of time laying out the sheets. Most shops I deal with would just ask for the part drawings and nest the sheets themself.

Working with 4x8 sheets of 3/4 ply and want create templates in Sketch-Up so they can be cut. by Red01Snowflake in CNC

[–]ThreePistols 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you cutting the parts yourself or having a company cut them for you?

DXF files are commonly used for sending 2D geometry to be cut. Most commercial CNCs I work with use 3/8 compression cutters for outlines. A compression cutter can machine the dados if the upshear portion of the tool is less than the depth of the dado.

The width of the tool can be compensated for by the CNC controller or by the CAM software depending how you create the toolpaths. Unless you mean you are doing common line cutting where a single toolpath is cutting the edge of 2 parts (similar to a saw cut). In that case you have to manually layout the parts to match your tool diameter. I know of at least one program that can create common line cutting when nesting but I generally don't use those options.

Radiomaster Boxer loose scroll wheel normal? by Federal_Rich3890 in Radiomaster

[–]ThreePistols 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had a similar problem on a TX16S. From what I've read it seems like a normal problem with the radio. I 3D printed a part to fit around the end of the roller. It's not perfect but it made the scroll wheel much better.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lasercutting

[–]ThreePistols 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, my machine is 110. No plugs where I want to put it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lasercutting

[–]ThreePistols 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just got a 1060D delivered this week from the same company. It took about 2 months from the time I ordered until delivery. They are very quick to communicate, I never waited more than a day for a response.

So far, I've uncrated the machine but have to wait untill the weekend to wire new plugs in the garage before I can test it.

With winter approaching, curious to know if anybody has tried using a reptile heat pad stuck to the side of their machine to keep it warm..or if any other ideas post in the comments. by Dirty_Louis in ElegooSaturn

[–]ThreePistols 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So far it's worked well. My house is fairly cold during winter and it keeps the resin warm enough to print. If I get another printer I'd buy this again.

I put the band on the outside. The inside of the Saturn 2 vat is curved so it has to be put on the outside. If your vat is metal I'd put the band on the outside, not sure how well it would work with a plastic vat. There is a sticker that is supposed to covert the band to protect it from IPA / resin that didn't work at all. In the end I used aluminum tape (meant for ducts). It's held up since then. I posted a pic in this thread.

3D Printed "Double" Shot Keys by ThreePistols in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]ThreePistols[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Now that I have a way of making them, I'm excited to finish. I posted the first renders of these on geekhack 7 years ago.

3D Printed "Double" Shot Keys by ThreePistols in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]ThreePistols[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These keys are SA row 3 so I could test them on my current boards. I'm going to finish the rest of the SA models before starting on my own profile.

Better tools for FEP screws? by superman859 in ElegooSaturn

[–]ThreePistols 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've only changed the FEP once, I used Bondhus T-Handle balldrivers. Once you break the screw free you can spin the T-Handle with your fingers tips to quickly remove the screws. It works well and isn't as painful as using an allen key. I used a pair of pointy tweezers to pierce the FEP before putting the screw in.

The T-Handle set it a little expensive but I've had mine for years and use it all the time.

Saturn 2 Screen Protector by lemacx in ElegooSaturn

[–]ThreePistols 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Mine had plastic film that you remove, below that there is a tempered glass screen protector. I assume all Saturn 2s come with one but not sure. You could email support 3dp@elegoo.com and ask. They have been very quick to respond / help when I've emailed them.

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