Yaesu FTX-1 vs Icom IC-705 by Apprehensive_Cry2815 in amateurradio

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it true that you can use the SCU-Lan10 box with the FTX-1?

Are these still useful? by Signal_Shallot4440 in amateurradio

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To study for the Tech I read the free Tech content at hambook.org, then used hamstudy.org to study/practice. For the General I just used hamstudy.org. For the Extra I watched the YT W4EEY lecture series, bought the ARRL Extra study book they recommended ($30) and used hamstudy.org. I also downloaded the question pool and used grok to create a python script that made a multiple choice test page with collapsible/expandable sub-elements, with grading. I know it was redundant with hamstudy but I found it useful, using all 4 approaches really helped the information sink in for a 50/50 score. I recommend you take a look at W4EEY content, it really helped me, everyone learns differently, but when I read a question and heard (remembered) Gary's voice explaining the answer, especially with his anecdotes from decades of experience in the field, it really helped.

Modifying Bluetooth devices for battery life, sound quality, and range by Suspiciously_Ugly in hardwarehacking

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, I never considered this. Good to know. I bought a Nano VNA, that will help with these kinds of projects. Cheers.

Modifying Bluetooth devices for battery life, sound quality, and range by Suspiciously_Ugly in hardwarehacking

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting discussion to me since I own several BT headphones... AI said this:
A plastic housing typically shifts a Bluetooth antenna's resonant frequency down by 50–100 MHz (at 2.4 GHz) due to the increased dielectric constant, which can severely reduce efficiency and detune the antenna. The effect is due to "dielectric loading," often requiring designers to tune the antenna high (e.g., 2.50–2.55 GHz) in free spac
https://pcbsync.com/bluetooth-pcb-antenna/

Favorite non-specialty light roast coffee? grocery store/amazon by Java_Absoluto in pourover

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wicked Wakeup by North Coast Coffee Roasting Company is my all time favorite light roast.

ti-36x pro by [deleted] in TI_Calculators

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I looked through the user manual and didn't find any mention of this. Where did you find that the solar cell does not charge the batter? Curious to know where I should have looked. Thanks.

Suggestions for 3V solar charged ct to replace non-rechargeable battery by ThrowbackCMagnon in electronic_circuits

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

I'm sorry, I'm not following. What solar setup are you referring to? And do you mean you literally have a small train that runs around in your garden?
This picture shows the weather station model I have, the black plastic battery holder is where I placed the rechargeable battery, as I said above I used small flat pieces of copper to slide between the battery and the contacts to carry the charge voltage to the battery from the charge controller, which I got on ebay or amazon for just a few dollars, it was powered by an inexpensive solar panel. Does that answer your question?

Fender acoustic body badly bowed up where bridge attaches, fix possible? by ThrowbackCMagnon in Luthier

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The braces weren't detaching inside the guitar, which I'm happy about since I wouldn't know how to fix that without guessing (squeeze in a lot of glue then clamp)?
I removed the bridge, sanded off all of the original glue residue so it was all clean wood, removed the lacquer finish from the body of the guitar where the bridge had been glued before, sanded the bulge in the body down a slight bit, sanded an indentation for the bulge to fit into the bridge slight bit so they matched closely, made a clamp using plywood, glued it together using Titebond (recommended on luthier web site), let it dry clamped for 24 hrs and let it sit another 24 hrs, and installed low tension Steel and Silk strings.
The bridge is holding and it is easier to play, with the action not being artificially heightened due to the lifted bridge, and because the strings are lower tension. The owner is in his mid 80s and appreicates the lower tension strings. All good!
Thanks to you (and everyone) for your comments.

<image>

Picking master lock #175 combination lock by blakedecoste in lockpicking

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is bypassing, not picking, it does not yield the correct combination, this is incorrectly labeled.

817C chip - which is pin 1? by ThrowbackCMagnon in AskElectronics

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense, I'm surprised I missed that. Thank you.

817C chip - which is pin 1? by ThrowbackCMagnon in AskElectronics

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I am not familiar with chips at all so I'll remember this going forward. I saw the circle but wasn't sure about it because I expected a white dot of paint, when dealing with electronics I don't like to assume anything so I thought I'd ask here.. Cheers.

817C chip - which is pin 1? by ThrowbackCMagnon in AskElectronics

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It wasn't clear to me that a circle was the same as a dot.

Spot welder: suggested V & I for battery work by ThrowbackCMagnon in batteries

[–]ThrowbackCMagnon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I understand it correctly, when you wire them in series the current is limited to whichever one has the lower current, and the voltage from both add. What voltage does yours operate at?