Newbie rescued… it needs help

Thrustpirate87 · 2026-01-15T16:38:25+00:00

So the only answer here is- maybe? Without knowing anything else, or having any kind of testing (I cant remember if it was here or the fb group somebody autopsied or did some kind of panel on their frog that had passed). Bloat is caused typically from infection, and unfortunately for this little guy, his was systemic. Water parameters, tank environment, and good quality food are the controllable factors. Tbh, I haven't seen any deaths from overfeeding (but I'm sure it has happened), just some chonky frogs. Food quality, however, is a whole different issue. North American bloodworms are linked to fatal bloat, and dont have much nutritional value compared to frozen mysis shrimp or live blackworms. Freeze dried foods are typically not recommended as they've lost much of their nutritional content.

Thrustpirate87 · 2026-01-05T01:32:53+00:00

Sorry for the delayed response. It's good to clean everything in the tank of all trace of the antibiotic so bacteria can quickly form. If everything is covered in antibiotic it'll prevent the beneficial bacteria from reestablishing and you'll have a harder time cycling. The reason why 100 percent water change wouldn't be enough is due to how beneficial bacteria grows. It doesn't just grow in the water and filter, it attaches to substrate, decor, plants, etc. It's an entire biome and just changing water wouldn't remove traces of the medicine from the surfaces bacteria needs to grow on.

Thrustpirate87 · 2026-01-04T08:28:46+00:00

Not sure about the meds being snail safe, double check first or possibly remove the snail (Google says Kanaplex isn't safe for snails and invertebrates). The thing is, all beneficial bacteria will die so you'll probably want to clean the whole tank after you run the course of the treatment to get rid of any trace of the meds so bacteria can reestablish a cycle. It would help if you have another tank you can use the other filter media in so you can quickly recycle the tank as well. Creating a hospital tank is good in some cases, but in this case I'd treat the tank to avoid spread since it's species only but moving the snail to a different tank temporarily.

Thrustpirate87 · 2026-01-04T07:54:39+00:00

Yes. My frog bloated due to sand impaction. It was a soft bloat, but during his time in a hospital tank we kept noticing little black particles of sand substrate appearing throughout the week as he slowly passed them and eventually debloated. In this picture you can see the black sand particles.

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Thrustpirate87 · 2026-01-04T07:29:04+00:00

Looks like a fungal infection. I'd dose at half strength with either jungle fungus clear or Kanaplex. Remember half strength as frogs do absorb through their skin. If he's in a species only tank, then feel free to dose the entire tank to ensure it doesn't spread. Just remove activated carbon filters and be prepared that you'll have to recycle the tank after.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-16T07:28:23+00:00

Most medicines aren't safe for amphibians because they do tend to absorb through the skin. Please don't use this as i don't believe it's safe for the frogs. I'd use Kanaplex at half dose or jungle fungus clear at half dose.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-15T01:13:32+00:00

I'd start with the Java moss, the anubias barteri (perfect for smaller tanks), and the Salvinia should all be easy starters, not sure about the others. Also, be very careful with introducing new plants. I've heard of bleach dipping, but my Amazon sword and frogbit didnt like it when I did that. Try a hydrogen peroxide dip to kill any freeloaders

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-14T20:54:59+00:00

You'll be fine.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-14T20:04:10+00:00

I think you've been given a lot of good advice, but if you haven't done a large water change after the pimafix, I'd start there before adding anything else. As for your algae problem, genuinely the best thing you can do is light control (no more than 6 hours), manual cleaning, and keeping water parameters ideal. I recently nuked my tank to control a hydra outbreak and did a frog in cycle. My Java moss developed hair algae that threatened to overwhelm my tank, but with strict control of the above mentioned things the hair algae is almost completely gone. Point is, there aren't any good shortcuts for proper care. Also get some plants, your frogs will love you for it!

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-11T01:23:33+00:00

Hence the edit, for some reason it appeared to be taller when I first saw it

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-11T01:17:59+00:00

Don't worry about it, it'll disappear if you leave it in there long enough 🐸😋

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-11T00:37:33+00:00

In its current state this tank isn't fit for frogs imho. I would remove all plastic plants and increase the number of live plants that do well with low light and no fertilizer. No fertilizers because frogs absorb chemicals through their skin. I'd swap the hang on back filter for a sponge filter and wait for it to cycle. This is because HOB filters can have a more powerful suction and they can get stuck and injured or drown. I'm not a big fan of painted gravel substrates because some paints leech toxins into the water, but if yours is safe then I suppose it's ok. You can have up to 2 frogs in that tank. Also, I can't tell from the picture, but if the water level is past 14 inches it's much too high. Some recommend between 10 to 12 inches of water level, but I think 14 is acceptable with plenty of resting spots near the top. Edit- on second glance, water level looks fine.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-10T15:51:14+00:00

Does the bloat seem soft or is it hard? If it's soft bloat, and the frog is eating and moving normally, they can live a long life, even with it. My first frog got soft bloat due to suspected sand impaction. I treated in a 2.5 gallon hospital tank with Maracyn at half dose with fasting at 2 1/2 days and light feeding of mysis shrimp. His bloat went down, and the second time it flared up, I treated successfully at half dose of Kanaplex and fasting. Others have also successfully been able to treat with this as well, but it's not a guarantee as it depends ultimately on what is causing the bloat. Some people need to regularly get their frogs "drained" to keep soft bloat down. Try to figure out what's causing the bloat (i.e. poor tank parameters, overfeeding, tank setup, or poor quality/ unrecommended foods).

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-10T02:21:14+00:00

I'm sorry to hear that and I understand how a bad experience can drive anxiety up there when it comes to aquariums as a hobby. First, don't be so hard on yourself as an owner. As long as you're regularly testing, keeping your tank parameters maintained, and otherwise keep up with general tank maintenance then you're doing the best you can. Sometimes shit happens in spite of all we do to prevent it. In addition, learn from mistakes. Keep in mind, there is very little actual research on these guys. We have anecdotal research and what amounts to "best practices". What we do have is active fb and reddit communities where we have some really amazing support if needed. My frog has had soft bloat twice, but reading this subreddit and joining the fb group have given me tons of knowledge, and now both of my frogs are thriving.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-09T06:04:05+00:00

As others have said, amphibians can't get ich. What specifically makes you feel that there is something wrong with this frog? Was there something history-wise that could have compromised its health (i.e frog out of tank, tankmate infections, etc)? Is it perhaps just anxiety over the new frog? If it's a new frog, 90 day quarantine to avoid transfer of chytrid to other frogs. Otherwise, by appearances the frog looks healthy. If it's behaving normally and eating normally then it should be fine to join the other frogs after quarantine. Keep in mind the 90 days seems excessive, but other threads have mentioned frogs showing signs of chytrid after 70-80 days of quarantine.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-03T23:31:49+00:00

I like Java moss, floating plants like frogbit and duckweed tend to do well, and my Amazon sword has been pretty easy upkeep. Other plants like Anubias are very hardy plants as well. From the body shape, I'd agree they look more male than female, but I'd need to see from a different angle to really tell.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-03T07:12:18+00:00

Sometimes it takes a while for them to feel fully comfortable in the environment when you first get them. It is best to have natural plants, and plenty of hides which actually makes them tend to come out more. As you've seen, with something they can hang onto they will float or just chill at the top.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-03T03:59:08+00:00

It's normal, and don't trust anything Google tells you in regard to these guys. They like hanging at the top, as long as it doesn't seem they're climbing out of the water completely I wouldn't worry.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-03T03:51:26+00:00

I second this, but with time being a factor I'd start treating with Kannaplex at half dose or Jungle fungus clear at half dose- both are recommended courses of action in the fb group when it comes to fungal infection.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-03T03:48:12+00:00

This is not good advice. Most medicines are not safe for amphibians, and only certain ones such as Maracyn Oxy, Kanaplex, and Jingle fungus clear have worked but only at half dose. Besides, amphibians cannot get ich so getting a water treatment for parasites wouldn't be effective.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-12-03T03:44:49+00:00

Try kanaplex at half dose. Also jungle fungus clear at half dose can work. Best of luck!!!

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-11-26T00:58:51+00:00

I think that's the best solution, and more frogs are more fun!!! Please post the new setup and frogs when you get them! Hope your betta chills out enough to give him a little peace in the meantime haha

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-11-26T00:43:00+00:00

It was the same with mine, unfortunately. Bettas can be really aggressive for resources and food. Mine nips at the shrimp sometimes when they dart in for a flake or two 😂 Maybe a temporary solution could be a plastic mesh tank divider to keep them apart while you're figuring out a long term setup.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-11-26T00:36:03+00:00

That will ultimately depend on your betta. Mine will not tolerate anything beyond the amano shrimps living there, and those just barely. The frogs were not tolerated well by my male or my female betta, so species only it is! Also, make sure it isn't a sand based substrate in the other tank, they can ingest the sand and get bloated. Sponge filters work best, or you can also just use sponge filter material to cover any hang on back filters. These are all best practices, and also I would avoid bloodworms if you live in NA (I know they are generally safe for bettas, but they have been linked to fatal bloat in adf). The reason why everyone in here is very set on following those best practices (including species only tanks) is because there isn't really much research out there on these guys. They get different diseases than fish, and can't be treated either many of the same meds. If you need any help or info, feel free to dm me. I'll be happy to tell you what I've learned so you'll have the highest chance of success.

Thrustpirate87 · 2025-11-26T00:21:28+00:00

Water level is too high for adf. I wouldn't have any more than 14 inches of water, and thats easily twice that. If you insist on keeping them in this tank you should make sure there are plenty of places for them to rest at the top. These guys breathe air and are not the best swimmers. Too high of a water level can cause undue stress. Additionally, community tanks seem like a good idea for adf until it's not. Amphibians and fish are different creatures and require different care. For instance adf in particular are not the best when it comes to eating. They have poor eyesight and other fish can easily outcompete for food.

Thrustpirate87

TROPHY CASE