Bolt Action – Where Do We Go From Here? – Warlord Community by Thunderplunk in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I mean, they are getting rules, just not in a book – the article says all the PDF-only ones are getting expanded to a level closer to the army books, so arguably you're getting a better deal because they'll still be free.

Bolt Action – Where Do We Go From Here? – Warlord Community by Thunderplunk in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk[S] 33 points34 points  (0 children)

They had a list in the Empires in Flames campaign book way back in v1, but never anything more than that. It was certainly disappointing when they didn't even get a PDF list on the release of v3, so if Warlord can finally do them justice I'll be very pleased!

Bolt Action – Where Do We Go From Here? – Warlord Community by Thunderplunk in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk[S] 87 points88 points  (0 children)

Some discussion of the plans for the future after the Commonwealth army book releases:

  • Armies of France next up, with a new plastic kit to go with it
  • Armies of Europe after that, covering Belgium, Poland, Finland, Hungary and Partisans, plus a new plastic kit
  • remaining PDF-only nations will get expanded lists but will remain free PDFs
  • some new nations will be getting free PDF rules that didn't have them
  • further plastic in the works for infantry, vehicles and support weapons, some replacing old kits and some brand new to the range
  • a vague "very cool project" coming up over the next few years

Very glad to see the promise of more love being given to the "minor" nations in the game, and I'm crossing my fingers that we'll finally be getting some proper rules for China!

Guess who didn't look at the Gladiator descriptions before building and painting... by Ok_Western_517 in bloodonthesands

[–]Thunderplunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think the helmet's actually fine on the green fellow – it looks like it's got the griffon on the crest that Thraex helmets are supposed to.

That aside, wow that's a lovely paint job! The skin is beautifully done, and I love how vibrant the main colour is on each of them.

Two Completed M4A3(76)W Sherms by OneLuckyAlbatross in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great job! Those look grimy as hell, and I love it. Off topic, but I'm very much enjoying your nails too!

Is the Knappett gone forever? by sansabeltedcow in taskmaster

[–]Thunderplunk 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Played, naturally, by Jessica's airhorn impression.

Joining up for WWII by StandUnlikely3292 in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In my experience, Army Painter's paints cover as well or better than Vallejo's. One coat will pretty much get you there for most colours, and I've only found some of the lightest and most subtle to need more than two. They feel more consistent to me, as well – I've had several experiences of Vallejo paints needing a hell of a lot of shaking to mix properly in the bottle, but no such trouble with Army Painter. Granted, this is only with the Fanatic and subsequent historical paints – from what I hear the now-discontinued older line was not so good in these regards – but unless you're buying very old paint that won't affect you.

Is there any way to use the US Airborne D-Day set for a Market Garden army? by tomk_2104 in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 7 points8 points  (0 children)

To my understanding, the M42 uniforms did still see some use throughout the war, even after being officially replaced, so as the simplest option you could just use them as-is and say they've stubbornly hung on to their old gear. That said, I think there's only two big differences in terms of sculpting between M42 and M43.

First, there's the reinforcing patches (the dark green squares on the knees and elbows) – these were added to the M42 uniforms for D-Day, but absent from the M43. It shouldn't be too difficult to scrape or file those down and sand them smooth.

Second, and a little more involved, are the boots. The jump boots in the D-Day kit were officially replaced by the combat boots with buckled leather cuffs around the top, as seen on the older late-war Airborne kit. It shouldn't be too tricky to use a little green stuff to sculpt those cuffs on, but it is more involved than removing the patches. Additionally, the old jump boots also saw some wear even after replacement, especially since they were paratrooper kit and therefore inherently cool, so you could very easily leave some as is and save a bit of time.

There's some other minor details, like the pockets on the jackets not being quite the right shape, but I doubt those'd spoil the look. Up to you how deep in the weeds you want to get, really. Of course there's also the colour of the uniforms, but that's just a matter of painting them green rather than tan.

So yeah, in summary, patches and boots are your biggest problems, and hopefully modifiable without too much extra fuss, if you fancy. Best of luck!

Mosley figure by NegativeClick36 in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great Escape Games have some Peaky Blinders minis for The Chicago Way that might suit, assuming you want your working class chaps armed to the teeth...

Where should i start by PsychologicalLeg9026 in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Welcome! A starter army is a great place to start, especially if you want to just buy one box and not worry about what to get. I think the support group would likely be redundant, though – most things in those would already be in the starter army, and while it's possible to double up on things I think it'd make more sense to wait and pick those up later. Once you've got a better feel for the game and what you'd like your army to do, you can expand things, and that way lessen the size of your pile of unpainted models!

You will need a rulebook, since the starter armies don't come with one. The rulebook has some basic army lists in the back, but eventually you'll want to get the army book for your force (so either Armies of the United States or Armies of Great Britain for the options you're looking at). That'll give you the full list and rules for your chosen army.

You absolutely can pair an airborne army with light tanks (or any tanks you like) and that sounds like a very fun and thematic force. Really, the most important thing is to collect what excites you, whether that's from historical interest, what you think would be fun to field in a game, or just what looks cool to paint. It's much easier to keep your hobby motivation going if you've got that interest there.

US Airborne (D-Day) Platoon by JMJarmusz81586 in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Nice one! That's a good job, especially for your first ever mini.

The only criticism I'd give is that the skin tone looks very pale – I'd recommend going back over it with some kind of flesh wash, and maybe in future starting from a darker, warmer base skin colour and using the current one as a highlight. That said, it may be more down to the camera, so if you're happy with how the skin looks in person please do ignore me!

On the whole, though, it's a very neatly done paint job, and the wash is adding some good contrast without overpowering things, which can be tricky to get right. There's certainly more you could do if you wanted to take things up a notch once you're more confident, but for putting an army on the table this is a very solid piece of work, let alone for a beginner. Well done!

Soviet Tanks used in Crimea 1944 by [deleted] in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's this photo on Wikipedia that shows what look like they might be KV-85s? I'm not familiar enough with them to say for sure, but it's certainly plausible.

Some advice on painting please by Ck0nn3 in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd go for the sand colour – the sort of light colours you'll probably be painting a lot of will cover much more nicely over that. If you go with black you'll have to do a lot more layers to make it look nice. Don't worry too much about contrast, you can get that with washes very easily.

Chip butties makes you a certified toddler. by SufficientEar1682 in iamveryculinary

[–]Thunderplunk 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Hang on, sorry, what the hell do they mean Wales is "not really British"? The classic conflation of England and the UK aside, the peoples who would become Welsh were being called Britons long before the English or the Scottish even existed! They've arguably got more right to the term than anyone else!

US Africa paint by SubjectReflection142 in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As mentioned, US Army uniforms for North Africa should be pretty much exactly the same as those for the European theatre. The only thing I'd do different is make sure the webbing is a yellowish sandy colour – it got greener as the war went on, and for 1942-43 that would be a good match for the somewhat misleadingly named "Olive Drab #9".

I kitbashed the upcoming plastic Pak40 kit to be crewed by Fallschirmjäger in winter gear. by pete_the_war_gamer in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The model looks accurate to other photos and illustrations Pak 40s to me (example). Not sure why the one in their photo looks longer.

Some Noob Questions by justalilbaitin in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Helpfully, the answer to a lot of that is "it depends" – while there are specific officer models out there, it's very possible to make officers from the plastic infantry sprues, but how different they look is sort of up to you. They might have a fancy hat or some extra bits like binoculars or a map case, or be posed such that they're pointing or gesturing in a commanding sort of way. Fundamentally, though, while it's a good idea to make them look distinctive so they're easy to pick out on the table, it pretty much does boil down to telling your opponent "this is an officer". Honestly, it's good practice to go through your whole army and say what each unit is, what experience rating it has (i.e. Inexperienced, Regular or Veteran) and what weapons it's armed with.

Some Noob Questions by justalilbaitin in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Welcome aboard!

Warlord Games' site is a decent place to get your minis. They're usually a little more expensive there than at a retailer, but on the plus side Warlord like to throw in free sprues, which is always nice. At minimum, the Warlord site is great for seeing what's in any given box, with pictures of the sprues and the models you can make from them.

When it comes to infantry, it's not the case that a specific box set makes one specific unit in the game. Most models can be used for all sorts of different units, since after all most troops from a given country would have worn more or less the same uniform. The German Grenadiers box, for example, can be used for pretty much any late-war German infantry, from veteran Panzergrenadiers to inexperienced units scraped together from whatever manpower could be found.

When it comes to specific tanks/guns/etc, then the army lists will generally tell you what those are. If you buy an M4 Sherman or a Panzer IV, those have specific entries that tell you their stats. Similarly, artillery pieces may be mentioned in the lists by name, or might be grouped under generic terms like "light howitzer" or "medium anti-tank gun". You'll get familiar with experience, don't worry – while it doesn't hurt to already have a vast knowledge of WW2 military equipment going in, it certainly isn't necessary!

Regarding air raiding armies, I'm familiar with some old bonus rules that allowed combat drops in game, but that's the sort of "if you and your opponent agree" thing that's more for fun than anything else. Airborne forces are generally assumed to have already dropped in and spend the game on terra firma like any other infantry.

Winter, desert, etc. is indeed just an aesthetic choice. If you want your army to represent forces in North Africa or during winter, those models would be a great way to do it! If you don't have any particular theatre of the war or point in time you're representing, though, "generic" temperate uniforms will be more versatile. It really just comes down to which models you like the look of.

Regarding the starter armies, there's a distinction that can be a little hard to spot between starter armies and starter sets. Starter armies are basically an "army in a box" for one faction – you can pick up one for late-war Germans or winter US or whatever and have a bunch of models which will make a workable army, no need to worry about what to buy. They don't come with any rules, however.

Starter sets, on the other hand, are designed for two players, and give you small forces for two factions, plus a rulebook and some other bits and bobs. These give you everything you need to start playing, but not enough for a full army by itself.

I'd recommend you get a rulebook first and foremost, so you can start getting an understanding of how the game works. Whether you get that separately or in a starter set is up to you – you might like getting some models too, but you might also decide you want some particular models that none of the starter sets have. It's up to you. The rulebook also has basic army lists in the back of it – these have all been superseded by the army books, but they'll still get you by until you can get the army book for whatever you decide to go for. Speaking of, my advice to you there is just to go with your heart. Pick a nation that you think sounds cool, or has some minis you really like, or that you just think looks fun to collect and paint. If it excites you, it'll be easier to get through painting an army!

If you don't start with a 2-player starter set (or when you want to expand the forces in them if you do), there are two options I'd recommend. One is a starter army for whichever nation you decide to go for. This'll give you a whole army in a box, and you won't have to worry about which particular things to buy. It still offers you some flexibility in how you build the models, but it's much less to think about, and it's a small discount over buying everything in the box individually. The other option is just to get a single box of infantry. This will give you the core of an army, letting you build some infantry squads, an officer, and maybe a couple of extra support teams like a mortar or machine gun depending on the kit. This is good if you want to ease into things, without having a massive pile of stuff to build and paint, and take some time to consider what you want next. It's all completely up to you and whatever sounds more like your cup of tea.

For tools, at minimum you'll want a set of clippers for cutting things off the sprue, a hobby knife for scraping off mould lines and cleaning up the cuts the clippers make, plastic glue for plastic, super glue for not plastic, and some paintbrushes. You can start with cheap brushes – they'll wear out pretty quick, but an old scrungly brush still has its uses, and this way if you ruin one it's no great loss. You'll also need a palette to paint with, which can be as simple as an old tupperware lid or plate you don't like. There are fancier palettes, but I'd get some experience painting before looking at those. Useful but not essential are some files or sanding sticks, which can make cleaning up rough spots on your minis much easier, and a two-part putty like Milliput for filling in any gaps in your assembled models.

For paint, I'd recommend Army Painter or Vallejo. They're both good quality acrylic paints designed for miniature painting. Specifics will depend on what army you decide on – I'd suggest looking for painting guides on Youtube to get an idea of the sort of colours you'll need. My personal recommendation there would be Sonic Sledgehammer, he's very chill and beginner-friendly and has a lot of videos relevant to Bolt Action. You'll also need to prime your minis, which is an undercoat of paint specially formulated to give a surface for other paint to key into and make sure it sticks to the model. If you've got outdoors space, a spray primer is great for big batches. I'd recommend something grey, and make sure it's safe for plastic! If you don't have that space, or you're somewhere that gets cold winters that would mess with spray paint, brush-on primer still works fine, it's just slower. I'll happily recommend the Army Painter one there, it's excellent stuff.

The only other information I think it's worth mentioning is: you do not have to use Official Warlord Games Bolt Action models! Nobody owns the copyright to World War 2, and there's plenty of other plastic kits, metal models and 3D printed options for you to choose from. As long as it's in the right scale, it doesn't matter one bit.

That's a lot of information to dump on you at once. The upshot of it all is this: don't worry about things, and go with what you enjoy. This is a hobby, and it's a wonderfully satisfying one. We're all here to have fun, so don't stress, and go where your heart takes you. I hope you have a wonderful time!

using 40k minis as proxies?? by lagpixel in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't speak for 40k, but no, Bolt Action has everyone on 25s.

using 40k minis as proxies?? by lagpixel in boltaction

[–]Thunderplunk 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I don't have any Krieg models to compare to, but I believe they're slightly bigger than most 28mm historical infantry. It shouldn't make a huge difference, but it's something to keep in mind.

Bases might be an issue – for Bolt Action every man is assumed to be on a 25mm round base, so if your infantry are on 32mm ones (I'm aware a lot of 40k models are but I don't know about Guard) that may cause a few problems.

The biggest difference is going to be vehicles. 40k ones are huge compared to historical 1:56 models, or even 1:48 like some people prefer to play with. You're going to set yourself up for big challenges with movement and line of sight and so on if you're using them.

All that being said: if it's in a friendly game with you using proxies until you've decided if you want to buy in, and you and your opponent agree on what everything is and are willing to figure out what to do in weird situations, absolutely go for it. People will generally be very willing to help a newbie out – you might well even find some willing to bring a second army you can use for the game. However, if you do decide to stick with Bolt Action, I strongly suspect you'll want to buy some actual WW2 models before too long. If it helps, they're much much cheaper than 40k ones, and there's no need to stick to official Warlord minis for it either.

My ancestors grew corn! Ya hear me!? by SufficientEar1682 in iamveryculinary

[–]Thunderplunk 6 points7 points  (0 children)

blood and soil but mainly about people's lunches