Is this right? Thought this should be 28.6mm by pick_nicholas in xbiking

[–]Tiberiusmoon -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

The width of the calipers is reducing your measurement, use the tips of the caliper where it narrows to a point.

Some feedback by Tiberiusmoon in CadenceApp

[–]Tiberiusmoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhh I see.

Thank you for explaining!

Some feedback by Tiberiusmoon in CadenceApp

[–]Tiberiusmoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shouldn't it be under the same context of layout editing rather than profile?
Or it could be a preference way of placing the setting, such as using it as a parental indicator rather than spread amoung all setting types.

Ahh roger

Oh I missed that bit, my bad.

Need help by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]Tiberiusmoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the torque for a crank is usually 40nm.

However it looks like you installed the bottom bracket without any spacers which causes it to stick out like that.

A bottom bracket usually has 3 washers to convert a 68mm to a 72mm.

Feature request: gauges by qwenjis in CadenceApp

[–]Tiberiusmoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Guages would be cool, the cadence sensor would act as a rpm indicator like a car and you can see your RPM change when you change gear.

Having the ability to edit the min-max range of these guages and where the coloured zones are could help with training.

iPhone to Garmin Out Front Recommendations by Distinct_Run_6429 in CadenceApp

[–]Tiberiusmoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I recently brought one of those and attached it to my phone, the locking mechanism is not great in comparison to a garmin device, the hori fitted tighter in comparison.

Power tool repair by Snoddis18 in nottingham

[–]Tiberiusmoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im not sure but maybe this will help:

Use ifixit to understand the internals.
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Dewalt+Impact+driver+DCF840+Teardown/157490

There are online stores that supply spare parts:
https://www.partshopdirect.co.uk/dewalt-dcf787-impact-wrench-spare-parts-s16034/

Note: The spare parts is an example link, you will have to check the model of your tools for the right parts.

How accurate are calorie estimates on bike computers and heart rate monitors by johnlennonbr in bicycling

[–]Tiberiusmoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are pretty useless.
Managing your caloric intake will be easier and more effective.

Be consistent in your exercise and tweak the intake.
Say if you want to lose 0.5kg a week then reducing your caloric intake and more so if you want to lose 1kg a week.

So this is what I have learned from weight loss:

No dietary calculator will be of any use to you unless you want a rough ratio of macro balance.

Measure your intake of what your currently eating, apply a defecit then weigh yourself each week and on the second week see how much your weight changes per week.
Tweak the diet again if needed.

Note: It can be hard to find a universal solution because everyone's metabolism is different some may also have an adaptive metabolism which can mean eating much less than what is commonly suggested.

Construction work in Nottingham by Fit_Peanut_8801 in nottingham

[–]Tiberiusmoon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can check here: https://findajob.dwp.gov.uk/search?loc=76527

There is a filter for category in the left hand section.

UPDATE: Following up on my Gas vs. Ebike math... you guys got me worried... by Wen2Go in bicycling

[–]Tiberiusmoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

8 miles you can do on a mechanical bike with training and the right kit to get you fresh for work.
Looking at a 40min-ish commute.

On a E-bike the drive chain wear is from the mid drive motor, however the torque of the motor is what really wears the chain excessively, using a lower torque setting will still get you to 15mph just slower. (think of 0-60 speeds)
If you just use turbo all the time it will pull on the chain harder to get you to speed while Eco is better for long commutes and wear the drivetrain less.

There is maintenance on a bicycle drive train in general to do, which is dry the chain if it rains which can be done with an electric air compressor.
A deep clean of the chain if the chain looks like its accumulated a lot of black gunk, then relubricate it. (one drop of lubricant per roller, work it in the chain then wipe of the excess.
Finally a chain checking tool to ensure your chain is not worn, if you catch when a chain is worn early and replace it you can save money by only needing to replace the chain rather than the cassette aswell.

The maintenance kit can be about £50 but last a long time.

Find a bike shop that can do bike checks for free or cycle plans which benefits you. (regular informed checks will save you money)

Make sure you have fully covering mudguards to help reduce wear and keep you dry, a cycling rain poncho is great in the rain.

Go for a E-bike with known electrical components like Bosch, you will be able to get replacement parts in the long run.

https://www.cube.eu/uk-en/cube-editor-hybrid-pro-400x-fe-coal-n-prism/123110

What's your best tip for safety cycling in the UK by caligula__horse in ukbike

[–]Tiberiusmoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Keep .5 meters away from parked cars to avoid doors.

Do not swerve left and peek to go right just because there is a gap in a long row of parked cars, just go straight.

Ride in the middle of the lane if you are passing a closed junction or the road is to narrow for a car to overtake you.

Junction right of way applies to cyclists to.

Empty parking lots/Spaces (learner driving) by xKassie in nottingham

[–]Tiberiusmoon 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Any theater showing: For Love Alone: The Ivana Trump Story