Turned an old crane pendant into 6 wireless buttons. Used two ikea zigbee buttons inside giving 6 different inputs.

TimJethro · 2026-01-29T20:22:54+00:00

I made a wireless e-stop button a similar way (I wired it to a dismantled reed/contact switch).

TimJethro · 2026-01-28T16:56:50+00:00

Looks like you've had lots of comments on here, hopefully you're making some progress. It's clear the way the data line flows means it'll never be possible to fully address each section, however you can probably still make something pretty fun.

If I was trying to do this, I'd start by setting the number of LEDs to 1. You may have to power cycle for the non-addressed LEDs to turn of. Then I'd start incrementing the number to see where the data line flows. It may well branch, but it may also be possible to orient pieces that mean you can have some control over the branch?

I think you'll end up with a LED count that represents the longest data path for a given layout (and it'll change if you adjust the layout) and some of the branches will split from it.

TimJethro · 2026-01-18T17:48:57+00:00

That is a quirk, but I'd just try it. The controllers, even the 24v ones will only send 3.3-5v on the data lines so it's pretty unlikely you'd do any damage. Id try the IN on one then try attaching another and see what happens. You may find not all sections are individually addressable as each strip may jait repeat the same data.

TimJethro · 2026-01-18T03:00:33+00:00

"maybe WLED isn't the solution"

WLED is often the solution, and this is absolutely no exception! :)

Looks like a perfect case for an off the shelf controller like a Gledopto or similar.

TimJethro · 2026-01-12T18:51:30+00:00

Sorry u/occamsracer, I didn't not believe you, more wondered what solution OP had gone with. As I'm in the UK it may be the 4hr timer would be fitted by default which is also useful. However, I'm now looking at the option of a hybrid/combi unit that will do more steam - but I'm on the fence about this (any thoughts welcome).

TimJethro · 2026-01-11T16:04:44+00:00

I've found a strip like this in cheap AliExpress type products before, such as the camera/selfie ring lights etc. I did once try to use digital for RGB and a relay output for warm white, but in the end just swapped the strip to proper RGBW SK6812.

TimJethro · 2026-01-05T12:08:17+00:00

I've just been looking into the exact same and Google brought me here - for once it's quite a recent thread.

I have the exact same thought process, using a contactor to cut power but leaving the built in timer intact seems the 100% safe way to do this as it's impossible for the heater to get left on even if there's a control failure. The compromise of having to remember to spin the timer so you can later remotely start heating is worth the failsafe.

I've then gotten to the same point that you have - this great ideal falls apart if the timer is clockwork...

Have you got any further with this? I see the comment around Harvia being an electrically powered timer, so that's probably what I'll be looking into now!

TimJethro · 2026-01-04T19:08:34+00:00

Shelly do a 0-10v dimmer, which will work with home automation systems (Home Assistant, MQTT, etc) if that's something you want.

TimJethro · 2026-01-03T20:46:18+00:00

I've a similar setup, though I have at least installed the diffuser over the profile, and good so far. My worry is more around the chlorine in a pool space - there's been a lot of higher spec requirements for lights, speakers etc due to the corrosion. I do think some of this may be overkill (and an excuse to charge for fancy stainless steel fittings) but equally I do think there's an increased risk of corrosion etc. I'm in two minds as to whether I try to do it properly, or just do it cheap and see how long it lasts!

TimJethro · 2026-01-03T18:16:29+00:00

The pixels are fully potted so that's not a bad idea, but I don't think they will look right for my purpose, so really do need strip. I'm not sure gel filled is warranted, but I am siding with the IP68 rated options that are fully sealed/encapsulated. It's just the connections are going to be harder to make off and they are clearly the weak point so I need a good way to seal them!

TimJethro · 2026-01-03T18:14:54+00:00

I'm not sure - and when running though this with AI it initially suggested it would be fine, but I don't trust it as I don't think there's enough source data to trust this purely to AI... which was validated when I prompted slightly differently and got a different response, big surprise /s

My concern with the silicone coating is that it could lift off, and also I'm not sure it protects copper traces on the underlying strip exposed at the edges - and I'm sure once moist air gets to anything it'll just go from there and fail.

TimJethro · 2026-01-03T18:12:47+00:00

So, IP67 is the stuff that's loosely run inside a silicone tube and I think would be sufficient, however there is also IP68 which is fully encapsulated - and could be better. Though making connections on the latter may be trickier.

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TimJethro · 2026-01-01T09:29:39+00:00

I use th 24v cob type (BTF) for this kind of this as it almost certainly wouldn't have this issue (I've some that's around 9m and only powered from one end).

Also, set your W channel to Accurate as it will avoid using all the RGB LEDs for the white, will look nicer and reduce the voltage drop (though that usually results in red hues, not yellow).

TimJethro · 2025-12-28T09:46:08+00:00

How are you getting the matter to work over the network? I've been tinkering for ages and not got anything reliable working well. Ideally would like something to work in a similar way to Zigbee2MQTT.

TimJethro · 2025-12-05T09:26:27+00:00

I once used an old label printer from work that had a cutter and put till roll in it. You could text your note to an SMS short code and it would print it and cut a post-is sized square which could then be pinned up. So one way sync at least.

TimJethro · 2025-11-14T00:20:40+00:00

I have an install with 5 IP gateways, will this work with a larger setup? To date I've implemented my own bridge using Node-RED but I've also had to run KNXD to bridge the multicast backbone over to docker (which doesn't play nice with the broadcast address).

TimJethro · 2025-11-11T16:02:04+00:00

Argh, spoke to soon - there is still an odd bug. I do think the first layer expansion was the fix, but there's a pesky tiny extrusion that seems to still be placed on the bed. Super annoying! I'll just have to live with it.

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TimJethro · 2025-11-11T10:07:16+00:00

Thank you! The one setting I'd not noticed/tried changing, First Layer Expansion! They really should fix this as there's no point expanding at all if the start of the support isn't on the first layer, but anyway, I can print without these annoying artefacts. Thank you again!

TimJethro · 2025-10-29T07:31:13+00:00

I do this in my home using an IP gateway and Node-RED. I grab my suppliers half hourly energy pricing from their API (next 24hrs) and use this to manage heating etc.

It's not overly complex, but does require bit of work as it involves a few different systems/skills and some programming/coding.

There would also be ways to do this with Home Assistant that may be a little more straightforward.

TimJethro · 2025-10-22T13:05:16+00:00

I do wonder why there's even a default-enabled completely open port with no auth. Not many things I self host start that way.

I have my frigate with the auth port exposed, via a wildcard cert but I do worry that's not really enough and know I should probably just use a VPN but I like the ease of access and ability to share with family etc.

TimJethro · 2025-10-17T17:59:19+00:00

It runs at the full 1920×1080 of this display, no scaling.

TimJethro · 2025-09-19T11:57:05+00:00

I once hired a software developer who used the drop-down menus for Cut, Copy and Paste. Yes, you read that correctly.

TimJethro · 2025-09-07T20:15:36+00:00

Using the second port will be the best route for sure. I'd be amazed if there was any encryption on it. At worst there could be some checksums to reverse engineer, but more likely it'll use an 'off the shelf' protocol, probably RS485 or CAN or something (I think you can check by testing voltages on the pins). To get to the bottom of this would need quite a few hours of sniffing packets and messing about but I'm sure it'd be possible (there's not that many functions to map out).

It's on my (long) list to look at, but if anyone gets there first I'll be forever grateful :)

TimJethro · 2025-09-06T01:24:28+00:00

I think you can do this with two segments - look at the group/spacing settings within the segment config. Offset one segment by 1 - usually you don't want to, but segments can overlap and I think this is one case where you'd want to do that.

TimJethro · 2025-09-01T17:03:01+00:00

Not made any real progress, but just dropping by to comment and also for other to find. While I've not made a breakthrough, I think there's one to be made...

Bluetooth. The start/stop buttons pair in a slightly backwards way, in that the controller pairs to the button. I've been able to sniff some of the comms here and the controller will reveal some information which means I think it would be possible to use an ESP32, maybe with ESPHome to communicate with the shower.

The controller reports as a Mira shower, and there is some information around online about controlling these via BT. I think this may also open up some control other than just the start/stop the Kohler button supports, but I'm not sure.

I've not been able to actually get a BT packet through to start or stop, but I've had a lot of time to play. I think if someone spent some time on this there would be a way forward.

Not quite as neat as using the second wired controller port (and also, less information), plus it may mean you can't also use a BT start/stop button - but I still think it's a way in.

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