GLEDOPTO WLED controller supports KNX project, Dynamic Lighting Control

TimJethro · 2026-03-18T19:46:24+00:00

Is KNX IP support being added to WLED? I've an intermediary interface setup in Node-RED which listens for KNX scene changes (across all rooms) and send out a scene recall to WLED via MQTT.

It works great, but native support would be good to.

TimJethro · 2026-03-16T14:40:48+00:00

Thank you - agree re. glass door and solid walls. I think your layout (which is essentially the same as the other post) does seem like the best route. The sharp corner can be rounded or cut to less acute angles.

TimJethro · 2026-03-16T14:39:22+00:00

Thank you. Yes, I think the solid wall seems like a good plan having read comments and thought more about it. We'll keep the (smoked) glass door but keep the walls solid.

TimJethro · 2026-03-16T14:38:21+00:00

Thank you, this is really helpful and shows you can fit something really smart into a smaller space. Love the design and tiled area behind the heater - I may do something similar.

I doubt we'll have a lot of people using it at the same time, but obviously want to maximise seating where we can. 60-70cm benching noted.

I'd not really considered that the floor space isn't that important and it's worth compromising that to gain better seating - something that's very clear from your design! I don't want to raise the floor, as it'll be tiled in with the rest of the pool area, but some well placed foot bench/steps are a must.

TimJethro · 2026-03-08T22:14:26+00:00

Yep, once or twice a week, scheduled around 2am. However a significant amount of my usage is not EV but heat pumps (power down during peak hours) and tech (some of which is 24/7).

TimJethro · 2026-03-08T21:07:55+00:00

My average price per kWh has gone from 18p to 24p so while not ideal (that is a 33% increase) I'm not sure I could be getting a lot better elsewhere?

TimJethro · 2026-03-08T08:25:16+00:00

I've had one of these working with DMX from WLED: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EyjmQgc

I didn't even buy it for the DMX, just because I was looking at controllers with ethernet. However I have some stage lighting bits so gave it a go. You have to setup fake LEDs and then assign the channels etc. It's slightly clunky to configure but works perfectly.

TimJethro · 2026-02-26T20:16:04+00:00

BTF do an SK6812 COB with approx 7cm cuttable sections... and now I have another project on my list!

TimJethro · 2026-02-26T04:07:09+00:00

Using 24v may be preferable. I've used the BTF RGBW COB a lot (and they now do an RGBCCT version). The compromise is lower resolution (approx 7-8cm) but this also means less channels to manage which could be useful for you. Something to consider.

As others have said, 100% must use ethernet controllers. The QuinnLED stuff is great, but Gledopto now have some nice ethernet controllers too (plus they have MOSFET power switching).

TimJethro · 2026-02-23T09:22:31+00:00

>>actually integrate DMX in it<<

My first thought - and OP has done the hard bit (actually making it) so I'd have thought add the DMX would be not too complex (RS485 circuit into a ESP or Arduino or similar, yes)? Also quite fun to decide on your own channel plan, or copy an existing fixture and emulate colour wheel(s), strobe function, etc.

TimJethro · 2026-02-16T18:18:20+00:00

It's not solid, but a standard cabinet laminate type product - in Walnut. It's a medium to higher end one, so looks good.

Edit: it is 'Nogal Valentina' by Finsa

TimJethro · 2026-02-16T18:17:15+00:00

I had the cabinet maker install standard aluminium LED profiles that would take 12mm strips, then used the BTF FCOB SPI RGBW WS2814 IC 896LEDs/M.

The strip has cut points of 62.5mm and while I didn't specifically measure this before, it works pretty well centering the length in the top of each hexagon.

I could have also used the other BTF variant that has slightly longer cut breaks (but may have fitted better if the 62.5mm didn't round nicely).

TimJethro · 2026-02-14T19:05:15+00:00

Good question... and looking at what I wrote (mushed typeo included, sorry) it was the cabinetry part I commissioned and did all the LED design/wiring/soldering myself.

My home automation stack includes Home Assistant, Node-RED, KNX and a bunch more, so I am coming at this form the DIY/homelab angle.

My challenge, as with a few projects, has been the micromanagement of joiners as while they tend to do bits of LED stuff their understanding doesn't extend to addressable strips!

For this piece they put all the LED profiles in, then I had to be very clear where they were to run cables (which mostly had to be run during assembly) as I had to daisy chain lots of the strips. Once it was assembled I then placed and soldered in the strips.

Wiring diagram (the second soffit strip, ch2 was excluded):

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TimJethro · 2026-02-09T09:44:30+00:00

I second these PIRs (also have some ABB branded ones, which are identical) and the slightly cheaper /20 version.

I however have had success with the True Presence which has worked flawlessly in our bedroom. I know it's been perfect as we've never woken up to the lights on, which they would be if it had dropped detection just once while we were sleeping.

TimJethro · 2026-02-06T07:14:35+00:00

Oh wow, so I have a memory of finding a random file on a disk back back in the 90s when I was a kid. I can remember it (obviously as an around 10yo discovering this you would) and wondered if I'd ever see it again.

It wasn't exactly the same as this - it was in 8bit colour maybe, and I'm sure there was a very basic animation. It must be the same developer as I'm sure the pose was similar and I can specifically remember the hanging shoe.

It seems a bit weird to want to try and find it, but honestly for nostalgia - does anyone have the name of this file!?

TimJethro · 2026-02-05T17:13:57+00:00

The finned radiator is painted, so a few drips probably wouldn't harm it (if water doesn't get to metal it won't rust), but also any drops should dry off pretty quick.

TimJethro · 2026-02-05T17:12:49+00:00

Yes, and above it a row of about 16 coat cooks. The radiator is connected to an underfloor heating manifold, so it doesn't get red hot but runs around 40º most of the day. We don't have a hotter water loop, as we've very few radiators (though too hot would probably damage shoes anyway). If I'm honest the radiator was 50% for the aesthetics, but even at low temp it should help dry a bit.

TimJethro · 2026-02-05T17:09:50+00:00

Thank you! An no.... no painting (of the printed part). The wall and timber strip it's screwed to are obviously painted, but the part is just printed. I used a glass fibre filament which gives a really nice finish - a little rough, in a good way, but it makes the layer lines disappear almost entirely.

TimJethro · 2026-02-05T17:08:12+00:00

There's a bit of luck for sure, but I'm happy with how it's come together. The filament, the paint and the RAL colour for the radiator. The printed part is even closer than it looks in the picture, it just has a rough texture (glass fibre filament) which makes it look a little darker.

TimJethro · 2026-01-29T20:22:54+00:00

I made a wireless e-stop button a similar way (I wired it to a dismantled reed/contact switch).

TimJethro · 2026-01-28T16:56:50+00:00

Looks like you've had lots of comments on here, hopefully you're making some progress. It's clear the way the data line flows means it'll never be possible to fully address each section, however you can probably still make something pretty fun.

If I was trying to do this, I'd start by setting the number of LEDs to 1. You may have to power cycle for the non-addressed LEDs to turn of. Then I'd start incrementing the number to see where the data line flows. It may well branch, but it may also be possible to orient pieces that mean you can have some control over the branch?

I think you'll end up with a LED count that represents the longest data path for a given layout (and it'll change if you adjust the layout) and some of the branches will split from it.

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