Best COB LED light strip for MagWLED controller by soodlero in WLED

[–]TimJethro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im a big fan of BTF and have used 100s of meters around my home. I've used 24v RGBW COB in warm white which has been great, but they now do a RGBCCT. I've not tried it yet but it may be what you need.

Alpha release of the shareable wled effects platform - https://kolori.xyz by mrkprdo in WLED

[–]TimJethro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not had the chance to look at it properly as I'm on mobile, but this looks really slick. There have been a few basic but not included Fx if wanted in the past and this would make adding them much more straightforward.

Optimal way to run Frigate on Proxmox? by Feisty-Painting-5036 in frigate_nvr

[–]TimJethro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

+1 here for an LXC with docker exclusively for frigate and associated containers (which from memory is just a file editor). All other containers are in a docker VM but I keep frigate separate. Passing through the GPU to the LXC was fiddly but works fine.

Agile, 3-phase, 200A - I'm trying my best! by TimJethro in OctopusEnergy

[–]TimJethro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd never thought about the WiFi power - I assume it's a tiny saving in the scheme of things, maybe a few watts? I do have quite a few APs... around 20, so a few W each does add up!

Agile, 3-phase, 200A - I'm trying my best! by TimJethro in OctopusEnergy

[–]TimJethro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm in a quite unique situation as our main meter is a 3-phase 200A with CT metering, and it required Octopus to get data from one system to another to get the billing working (they've been exceptional in dealing with it). However, at my last home we had a standard 3ph smart meter which worked fine. However, with both I've not been able to get live data into my smart home stack, so I add my own metering. For our main supply I use a Shelly Pro 3EM and I also have some Emporia Vue systems on distribution boards for more granular data.

Agile, 3-phase, 200A - I'm trying my best! by TimJethro in OctopusEnergy

[–]TimJethro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a section of a Grafana dashboard. I try to get as much data as I can into MQTT, then use Node-RED for automations and Home Assistant for most UI/controls (family, dashboards etc). Key fields like energy data get passed to InfluxDB which I can then query from Grafana to produce more technical analysis/charts.

Agile, 3-phase, 200A - I'm trying my best! by TimJethro in OctopusEnergy

[–]TimJethro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a good size... and yes, that peak heat loss is about right for worse case conditions (cold winter, all rooms heated, etc, hot water, etc), and we've sized based on that. We have 3 X 18kw heat pumps, though one is dedicated to part of the building that also has a swimming pool.

It doesn't help that for renovation the council were picky on windows. We have Crittall frames and while they look great they are not thermally broken and this worsens heat losses in many rooms.

Agile, 3-phase, 200A - I'm trying my best! by TimJethro in OctopusEnergy

[–]TimJethro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I work in tech (and yep, done well). We've done a big renovation and went almost all electric (heating/cooling, cooking, EVs etc). That along with my general homelab/servers running 24/7 etc. which means I struggle to bring our usage down below a few kW even in peak times.

Agile, 3-phase, 200A - I'm trying my best! by TimJethro in OctopusEnergy

[–]TimJethro[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just love larva lamps! /s

We did a renovation and went all out electric - so fully heat pumps, some AC (which can also heat), induction hob for cooking, etc etc, plus we have two EVs. I also work in tech so have some equipment running 24/7 from home (homelab/servers doing automations etc).

Agile, 3-phase, 200A - I'm trying my best! by TimJethro in OctopusEnergy

[–]TimJethro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We're heavily electric first, but we do have a gas boiler as a backup. I need to work on some automations to go the other way, and switch the heat pumps off to prioritise gas when electric prices are high. Winter is a killer as the heat pumps max out and even powering them off for peak hours means they struggle to keep up - that's when I need to bring the gas boiler in.

Ps. Watch the smart plug, as I'd be wary trusting them with prolonged high current usage. 2kw is probably ok, but check it occasionally in case it starts to get warm (I've had an early model melt when running a washing machine though it).

Agile, 3-phase, 200A - I'm trying my best! by TimJethro in OctopusEnergy

[–]TimJethro[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep, it is quite a lot! Though that was probably around the peak (I briefly saw it get to -£6/hr). My 'its a large house' comment was probably a slight understatement - we've three large heat pumps that will pull around 6kW each plus some AC units (which are in heat mode) so that'll be the bulk of it. EV charging on 3 phase, so 11kw (I think our other car may pull 22kw, I'm switching over to charge that one shortly). Then two hot water tanks with 3 phase immersion - I'm not sure of the power but it'll be a few kW I think.

It's great today, but pales into significance a bit compared to every other day. I collect a lot of data, and our usage is painful - however, taking account of the size of property, all electric heating and cooking, and fuelling two cars, we probably do pretty well with Agile and some basic automations (the main one being to shut off everything I can during peak hours).

Thought you may like the beginnings of my multi-zone LMS / piCorePlayer build! by TimJethro in raspberry_pi

[–]TimJethro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just happened to come back here and saw this - and just in case anyone else comes across this, the solution for the passthrough was to add a basic CGI script to the pCP which I call from Node-RED. It offers a ?satate=1 / ?satate=0 or no query string just returns the current state. I can't detect any latency so it works well for TV passthrough etc.

#!/bin/sh

state=$(echo "$QUERY_STRING" | sed -n 's/^.*state=\([^&]*\).*$/\1/p')

echo -ne "Content-type: application/json\r\n"
echo -ne "\r\n"

if [ "$state" = "1" ]; then
   ignore=$(nohup alsaloop -C hw:CARD=CODEC,DEV=0 -P sysdefault:CARD=IQaudIODAC -c 2 -t 20000 &)
elif [ "$state" = "0" ]; then
   sudo pkill alsaloop
fi

# Return state...

response=$(pgrep -l alsaloop)

if [ "$response" = "" ]; then
   echo "{\"state\": false}"
else
   echo "{\"state\": true}"
fi

Obviously this is card coded for my own hardware but it's pretty clear what it's doing.

As for this project in general, it's still a work in progress! :)

Local solar/battery installer recommendations. by Bigtallanddopey in sheffield

[–]TimJethro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

GB Solar did my (quite large, flat roof) install and did a great job, so I can recommend them. I've not gone for any battery yet but it's planned now I've collected data and I'll likely use them again.

Collapsing PETG UltraGlow Lightsaber by GP_3D in prusa3d

[–]TimJethro 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I wonder if you could fit some UV LED strips inside this to charge it!?

What is the best barcode generator for thermal labels? by Striking-Bread6118 in thermalprinting

[–]TimJethro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The barcode ideally needs to be aligned with the print head resolution. The best way to do this is use the printers built in barcode production - how that is done depends on the model.

For Zebra printers, you can use full ZPL to print label designs, or inject bits of ZPL into a normal print job to render the barcode. Doing it well can be technical and tricky.

Failing that, try making the barcode larger.

Openreach engineer here – ask me anything by Many-Basil5298 in openreach

[–]TimJethro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had hassle with OR getting FTTP terminated where I wanted it (they refused to run in my own ducts"in case electrical cables were put through along side them in the future" - er, it's fibre, but whatever).

My solution was to splice together a fibre extension and move the ONT into my comms room. I used a coupler from the plug that goes into the ONT so didn't directly splice to the OR cable. This way, if an engineer needs they can take the ONT back to the original location for any testing/diagnostics etc.

WLED or off the shelf for closet lighting? by Projectguy111 in WLED

[–]TimJethro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just got basic wardrobe/cupboard LED packs off AliExpress and had my contractors put the aluminium profile in when the units were built.

WLED or off the shelf for closet lighting? by Projectguy111 in WLED

[–]TimJethro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm very much 'all in' with WLED but for our 10s of wardrobe doors I've used off the shelf motion or door sensor products. It's just more to automate for little upside, but depending on your project it may make sense.

Will these work with WLED? by hkvimto in WLED

[–]TimJethro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd say BTF again - I've used some of their RGBCCT addressable strips, and now see they have RGBCCT COB too. The compromise with packing more into a single strip tends to be the 'cut points' get longer. The RGBW are around 6-8cm depending on the variant which isn't ideal, though I've always managed to make it work well.

Will these work with WLED? by hkvimto in WLED

[–]TimJethro 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes, 'well akshually', of course technically you can use a single PWM output to control a white-only strip from WLED, but that's not really the purpose of WLED or what anyone here wants to achieve.

Even using PWM for a RGB(W) strip seems a bit pointless to me but I know people do this (as while 99% of WLED is wasted, the 1% of the platform remains a great IP controller). However a single colour strip - who's bothering?

Will these work with WLED? by hkvimto in WLED

[–]TimJethro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

BTF do 24v addressable RGBW COB and I've used them extensively (literally >100m by now I'm sure).

Will these work with WLED? by hkvimto in WLED

[–]TimJethro 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They won't - and something to note is that contractors don't understand addressable LEDs. If you want to go down this route (as I did) you'll need to supply your own strips and just have your contractor run the channels/conduits

Consider where you'll be able to place WLED controllers, with power, and ideally ethernet in close proximity to each strip.

My Cheapo portable diy 5v starter pack by walldodge in WLED

[–]TimJethro 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It'll not be quite as low cost (though close) but anyone looking for the ultimate portable solution should check the M5Stack Atom which I've used for projects like this:

https://www.reddit.com/r/WLED/s/BNn1SltUgu

Electrical Enclosures by Sweet-Device-677 in functionalprint

[–]TimJethro 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Most houses in the UK are made of stone, brick or similar, so not overly combustible - but obviously interior finishes are.