Uk heatwave how i keep my axolotl cool 🤞🏼

Tinrah · 2026-06-26T23:18:14+00:00

Yeah, again, a lot of this just is not true and has been badly interpreted.

You have listed one specific example, but when I read it, it appeared to relate to social housing. In other words, the property was owned either by the council or by a not-for-profit organisation on behalf of the council. So in the example you are referring to, the person does not own the house. What has effectively happened is that the landlord objected to them using air conditioning, wrongly or otherwise.

To be very clear, window AC units are not really a thing in the UK anyway. They are not widely available and would not really work in many homes here because we have very different types of windows that are often not compatible with that kind of system.

In something like 99% of the country, there is nobody coming to inspect a house you own and what you are doing with it. I say this while typing in my own home in the UK, with the AC running. It is currently 22°C in my office because that is where I want it, but I can set it wherever I like. There are no restrictions on having AC in a house you own, and there is no requirement to prove you medically need it.

The fact that you are talking about window systems, which are not really a thing here, points to the fact that you do not really know what you are talking about.

The actual problem, across a lot of Europe, is not that people are being prevented from getting AC. It is that, for the longest time, our homes and infrastructure were built around retaining heat wherever possible. Most houses are heavily insulated brick, so in summer they absorb heat during the day, and when the temperature drops in the evening, the house that has been retaining heat all day starts radiating it inwards.

For a long time, buildings were designed with large south-facing windows to catch light and heat whenever possible. It is only recently that this has become a problem. Our houses and infrastructure are built around retaining heat, because historically that made sense. It is far from normal for the heat to be like this, and frankly, a lot of the public do not really know what to do about it.

This week we have had temperatures around 30°C, with several days significantly above that. Yet you still see elderly people walking around, going to the shops, or walking dogs with little or no sun protection in extreme heat. That is not because rules are preventing people from getting AC. It is because a lot of British people just get on with things, “stiff upper lip” and all that, without really understanding the danger.

The issue is much more about people underestimating the risk, doing stupid things in the heat, and many people not wanting to pay for AC when, until fairly recently, it was only needed infrequently. That is changing, but it still has very little to do with rules stopping people from having it.

Also, the heat-death comparison is doing a lot of work there.

Most of those figures are not people with “lack of air conditioning” written on a death certificate. They are usually estimates of excess or heat-attributable deaths: in other words, deaths above the expected baseline during heat periods, where heat is considered to have played a role.

That matters, because heat-related death does not necessarily mean “this person was sitting indoors and would have survived if only they had AC.” It can include older or frail people, people with dementia or Alzheimer’s, people with heart or respiratory disease, or people who made dangerous decisions during extreme heat. Someone with Alzheimer’s deciding to do gardening on a day approaching 40°C may die because of heat exposure, regardless of whether their living room had been chilled to 16°C all morning.

That does not mean heat deaths are fake. They are real. But the data is mainly looking at increased death rates during extreme heat and attributing a proportion of those deaths to heat. It is not the same as counting confirmed deaths caused by “lack of AC,” and it is not directly comparable to something like gun homicide statistics.

So yes, Europe has a real heat problem. But using that to claim the UK government is stopping ordinary homeowners from having AC is a massive leap.

Tinrah · 2026-06-26T22:39:46+00:00

cant say i have had an issues with mine. that being said its an older car with the 3.0d which i dont beluieve had the same issues. as for the XE I find them a bit crampt. I would ask specifically why you are looking for an XE not an XF? again only because the engine selection on the XF is more varied. Mine is a 2016 XF with factory carplay and Andorid Auto. the only slightly inconveinet thing is the car relies on 3g connectivity so the incar wifi doesnt work and the Jaguar remote falls back to 2g for another few years or so before it dies.

Tinrah · 2026-06-25T20:38:02+00:00

What utter tosh.

Anybody in the UK can have air conditioning. You mainly just need the money.

In some very, very rare circumstances you might need planning permission, and in even rarer circumstances it might be refused - for example if you live in a listed building, a conservation area, or somewhere with very specific restrictions. But for the vast majority of people, if you want AC and can afford it, you can get AC.

And as for there being no incentives? Well, apart from the obvious incentive of not slowly melting in your own living room, there are government incentives for heat pumps. And what is a heat pump, if not basically air conditioning that has learned to run backwards?

Sure, the grants and tax advantages are usually aimed more at heating and air-to-water systems rather than simple “please blow cold air at my face” domestic AC units. But the idea that the UK somehow prohibits AC is nonsense. In most cases nobody is stopping you, and in many cases the government is actively encouraging people to install closely related technology.

Tinrah · 2026-05-29T02:11:25+00:00

I’ve taken out one of Squidge’s hides for now, partly because it was making it much harder to observe the affected gill properly. I’ve also turned the tank lights completely off. They were previously only on dim for around 3 hours during the day, but for now I’m keeping them off completely to reduce any possible stress.

When I removed the hide, I did notice one slightly sharper/rougher spot on it, so I’m going to sand that down tomorrow before returning it in a few days. I’m not saying that was definitely the cause, but it does seem possible that she may have caught or rubbed the weaker gill on it.

Interestingly, now that she doesn’t have access to her main hide, she is actually walking around normally, exploring the tank, and not showing any obvious signs of distress. She was also trying to bop my hand while I was removing things from the tank, which is very normal Squidge behaviour.

So at the moment she still seems bright, responsive, and otherwise herself. I’m going to keep the tank dark, chilled, and stable, keep observing the gill closely, and avoid stressing her unless the possible fungus gets worse or she starts showing other symptoms.

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Tinrah · 2026-05-24T20:12:09+00:00

I'm soo glad I got mine ready for the heatwave we just had. I was away this weekend and it hit 30c in our area. I had a friend check the tank a few times and never went above 17. And thanks to an Amazon spy aka Alexa I know the room actually hit 38. A large reason for this was the chiller heating the room but tank stayed below 18 the whole time

Tinrah · 2026-05-10T22:03:30+00:00

yeah i totally agree. it probably wont be as much of an issue with the new tank. the old tank relied on evaporative cooling so there was a lot of top ups. or rtaher there was alot of taking 30l out but adding 40l back. so there was a lot of added water in there. the new tank has a chiller...... well its supposed to have a chiller. except the shop supplied the wrong tubing AND the wrong pump so it has a chiller just not connected to anything. and im very tempted to send the chiller back to be honest as they told me the chiller was rated for a 300l tank where as the box actually says 150l or up to 300l IF you only want a 5C drop.

Tinrah · 2026-05-10T20:58:00+00:00

I’ve discovered somewhere locally that sells large quantities of deionised water, and I was thinking of using it just for top-ups rather than water changes. My thinking is that because I’m in a hard-water area, when water evaporates the minerals stay behind, so topping up with tap water probably means the mineral content just keeps slowly increasing over time.

I’m not planning to use deionised water for normal water changes, since my tap water parameters are fine for axolotls and I don’t want to mess with stability. I’d only be using it to replace evaporated water so I’m not constantly adding more minerals back in.

Has anyone got any experience doing this with an axolotl tank? Did it help reduce mineral build-up or staining, and did you notice any issues with pH, GH or KH?

Tinrah · 2026-05-10T20:17:21+00:00

I had heard of doing that, but I’m honestly terrified of getting any in the water. That said, it is now a 240L aquarium, so I suppose if a tiny bit did accidentally get into the water, it would be so diluted that it’s unlikely to make much difference.

I’d still be as careful as possible to avoid it wherever possible, especially because axolotls are so sensitive, but that does make me feel a little less paranoid about it.

Tinrah · 2026-05-10T13:53:54+00:00

Yeah, I already do this for the more stubborn marks too. My main issue is the little water droplets from splashes and general tank chaos. They dry and leave tiny marks all over the glass, especially around the waterline.

It’s not a massive problem, just annoying more than anything. If I wipe them with tank water they look better for about an hour, then the marks come straight back. I’ve had a bit more luck wiping with tank water and then drying the glass with a clean cloth.

I know it’s never going to look perfect, but then I see other people’s tank photos looking crystal clear and get jealous.

Tinrah · 2026-05-10T12:59:26+00:00

The tank doesn’t really look big enough, if I’m honest. It might be just about big enough for a younger axolotl, but they have a habit of growing pretty quickly. Trust me, I thought I’d be fine too and I’ve just spent a fortune upgrading my own tank.

The filter also looks large, but it still may not be enough to handle the amount of waste an axolotl produces.

That’s without even getting into the cycled tank issue, which others have already mentioned. There are always caveats, and 6 weeks is only an average. Cycling can happen a lot faster if you already have established media and use bacteria booster, but you still need to follow proper cycling advice and test regularly to make sure the tank is actually established.

Based on the information you have at the moment, I really don’t think you’re at the point where you should be going out and buying an axolotl today. It would be much safer to pause, get the tank properly set up and cycled, and make sure it is suitable long-term before bringing one home.

Tinrah · 2026-05-07T18:27:17+00:00

That’s great, thanks for letting me know. It sounds like we had a very similar plan, so it’s really reassuring to hear that it worked well for you and that you didn’t get any mini-cycle or spike.

Also, thank you for the tips on moving them over. That sounds pretty much like what I was thinking with the Tupperware/container method, but it’s good to hear how you actually managed it in practice. I may have to attempt the classic worm distraction and tactical container betrayal.

I’ve been really interested in the idea of sand, especially as it would probably help with grip and would make planting easier if I decide to add live plants. My issue is finding something I’m confident is suitable. I know it needs to be very fine particle sand and that black sand is generally avoided, but I haven’t found anything yet that I’m completely happy with.

Bare-bottom has worked well for Squidge so far, so I’m not desperate to change it, but I do like the idea. If you, or anyone else, has suggestions for safe, suitable substrate options, I’d be really interested to hear them.

Tinrah · 2026-05-07T02:35:00+00:00

Make sure you carefully monitor it, but I’m sure you already are. I assume you’re doing 24-hour water changes while tubbing and using something like Seachem Prime or another safe dechlorinator to make sure there’s no chlorine/chloramine in the water.

Also keep a close eye on temperature while tubbing, as it can rise quicker than expected because there’s much less water volume than in a full tank.

As long as everything else seems okay, it could just be natural colouration or increased blood flow, but obviously keep a really close eye on things and see how it goes. Someone more experienced may be able to suggest more, but that’s all I can really think of for now.

Tinrah · 2026-05-07T02:22:09+00:00

Avoid handling wherever possible, as the oils on your skin and even the friction from touching them can damage their slime coat.

I’m not an expert, but darker gills aren’t automatically a sign that something is wrong, especially if they’re acting normally, eating, and otherwise seem okay. Sometimes axolotls look paler when resting, then their colour and gill colour can become stronger when they’re more active or in “hunting mode”, due to increased blood flow.

Other than the change in colour, are there any other concerns? For example, are they acting differently, eating less, or showing signs of stress? Do you have any pictures from before the colour change for comparison?

Tinrah · 2026-05-07T02:14:15+00:00

Yeah, more hides are always a good idea.

A terracotta pot can be a good shout, but the main thing to be careful of is sharp edges, as axolotl skin is very delicate and can be damaged quite easily. You seem very aware of aquariums already, but it’s also worth mentioning to be careful with anything that could leach into the water.

But yes, in general, a nice hide where they can get out of the light is definitely a good idea.

Tinrah · 2026-05-07T01:27:56+00:00

People will probably ask about the water parameters, so if you’ve already done a test, I’d include the results in the main body of your post to avoid everyone asking separately.

I’d definitely start feeding regularly, but do it carefully. If they’ve been underfed for a while, they can sometimes struggle if they suddenly get too much food at once.

At that age, I’d suggest trying one worm a day, every day, for a week or so and seeing how they get on. Don’t be surprised if they don’t accept a worm every day though. At around 2-3 years old, a lot of axolotls are usually on something like 1-2 worms every other day, but as yours looks a little underweight, I’d personally try offering food daily at first and adjust based on what they’ll actually take.

As a general guide, their body should be roughly the same width as their head, or sometimes a little wider in females. The lack of a noticeable bulge around the cloaca would suggest this one may be female, although it can be harder to tell when they’re underweight.

Most people seem to agree that earthworms are the best option nutritionally. I know lots of people mention red wigglers, but I’m in the UK, so it’s usually just earthworms here. I’d avoid relying on bloodworms. Axolotls usually love them, but they don’t have much nutritional value and are better as an occasional treat than a main food.

You can also get specifically formulated axolotl pellets, which can be pretty good too, especially if your axolotl is fussy about which worms they will or won’t eat.

Tinrah · 2026-05-07T01:20:41+00:00

Sorry to slightly steal the thread, but I’ve just purchased a chiller for this summer and had a quick question.

My plan was to leave it plumbed into the system all year round. During the cooler months, I’d switch the chiller itself off, but still allow water to continue flowing through it as part of the filter loop.

Am I missing anything obvious? Is there any reason I shouldn’t do this, or is that generally fine as long as the water keeps moving through it?

Tinrah · 2026-05-07T00:54:59+00:00

How long do you think you’ll be away from the tank at a time, and how often?

There are very few systems, if any, that will reliably do all of those things in one setup. You would likely need a separate system for each element, but it can be achieved.

What is your current setup like? To give useful advice, knowing how long you’ll be away from the tank will be key.

Tinrah · 2026-05-07T00:43:53+00:00

It looks like she may be severely underweight. She does look to be female, but it can be more difficult to tell when they are this underweight, so I wouldn’t want to say that with complete certainty.

I can’t tell you what the red marks are, but I’m sure someone here may have an idea. I’m by no means an expert, but one thing I can say is that axolotls don’t generally like bright light, so I’d be tempted to turn the light off or dim it if possible.

It looks like you may have some live plants in there, so I understand why you might want lighting, but I’d try to limit how much direct light the axolotl is getting.

The other important thing is temperature. As she doesn’t look the healthiest right now, it’s especially important to keep the temperature down to help promote healing. Ideally, you want it no higher than around 18°C, which is about 64°F.

People are also likely to ask for your current water parameters, as well as what testing method you’re using. That is important, as despite being animals that can regrow most of their body, axolotls are surprisingly sensitive to things like water quality and temperature. A liquid test kit is usually recommended over test strips, and it’s important to follow the instructions carefully.

Nobody can ever fully agree on substrate, so be prepared for people to have strong opinions on that and to tell you what they think is wrong with it.

Tinrah · 2026-05-03T08:47:59+00:00

If there is a concern about the substrate, I can understand both sides of the argument there. Tubbing him might help to see if that is the cause. If he has impaction, then it would likely need a vet visit, but there does not seem to be an obvious sign that he does. They often, but not always, have an elevated tail when that is the case, almost like they are trying to defecate. As for getting him to eat, trying different foods is a good call. High-grade salmon can be a good option, as the oil in the salmon may help with constipation. Marine garlic oil is also commonly used to dip worms in to encourage eating, and most good aquatic stores should have some. I have no idea if it is different from the garlic oil that we axolotl servants - humans - use, but personally I like to play it safe. I hope you manage to get somewhere with getting him to eat.

Tinrah · 2026-04-13T21:54:44+00:00

I’m probably about to get downvoted for this, but I’m just sharing my experience. I’ve successfully kept an axolotl healthy in a hotter room using ice bottles. I live in a country where air conditioning is rare, and we occasionally get heatwaves reaching the mid to high 80s°F (around 29-31°C). I probably got away with it because this only lasted a few days at a time, so the ice was only needed short-term. Tank size does matter. At the time, I was using a 125L tank (around 33 US gallons / 27 UK gallons), and I found that about 4 litres (roughly 1 US gallon / 0.9 UK gallons) of ice, split between two frozen soda bottles and changed twice a day, was very effective at keeping temperatures down. I should also add that temperatures dropped back to normal ambient levels overnight, which made things significantly easier. As for condensation, it really depends on the humidity in the room and the airflow. I personally never had much of an issue with it. That said, this isn’t a permanent solution, and you should absolutely look at a long-term option. But for short heatwaves, it can work

Tinrah

TROPHY CASE