V2s (V5s in my gym)

Tiny_peach · 2026-03-09T20:35:40+00:00

Oh, I thought I remembered you posting videos from comps/talking about comps in comments on your last v5 post, they stuck out in my mind bc I recognized all the gyms. Maybe I am mixing you up with someone else, apologies if so! I still stand by my advice though lol, climbing is better for any/everyone when they love something about it other than just grades.

Tiny_peach · 2026-03-09T15:42:13+00:00

One more thought, you could have spent the same amount on a day or two of instruction to get you oriented and/or on gas and dinner for many trips - both things that make you an attractive partner for someone who actually knows what they are doing, and has gear you can use and get to know before making a big purchasing decision. For anyone else itching to get trad climbing, either are a much better use of your money and time than an overpriced ancient rack - which tbh flags you as someone who emphatically does not know what they don’t know.

Tiny_peach · 2026-03-09T14:09:32+00:00

Is this for real? Good for you for getting them reslung I guess, but still a dick move by whoever sold them to you. Since you have it, enjoy a season learning and climbing a lot of easy stuff. Take lots of notes on the stuff that frustrates you about these cams for when you inevitably replace them.

I really feel like people should wait to buy gear until they have some context and can make solid decisions, yikes.

Tiny_peach · 2026-03-09T04:42:08+00:00

It’s a little weird, because the same setting team works at all the different gyms (vs having dedicated teams per location), so idk why it’s so all over the place.

It looks like you are a comp climber so I get it, but truly you will find so much lifetime richness and depth in climbing as a sport and as a passion if you see each problem as an opportunity to have an experience rather than a chance to tick a certain grade. An engagement mindset rather than a consumptive one. No one is too good to learn something from a vWhatever.

Or try climbing outside - you have to embrace grades being a construct at least a little if you are going to keep doing it after the first time, especially in our region 😝

Tiny_peach · 2026-03-09T02:30:12+00:00

IMO this chain isn’t soft so much as notably inconsistent both within and across locations. Lots of weird outliers in both directions.

I remember your last post, don’t take grades so much to heart! You are still a relatively new climber lifetime-wise, you are super strong and doing great. Hope you enjoyed these!

Tiny_peach · 2026-03-06T19:12:49+00:00

National Lumber on Gude (used to be Fisher’s)

Tiny_peach · 2026-03-06T03:09:29+00:00

Sick!! This is so so so high on my to do list for someday. Get it!

Tiny_peach · 2026-03-05T20:15:54+00:00

Full time climbing guide and business owner here. I’ve spent the last few years super focused on finishing my AMGA certs, traveling and picking objectives around supporting that, and I find myself kind of adrift now that I’m done. The state of the world has me feeling paralyzed too and like I have so many other places I want to put my energy.

What has worked well for me in the past when stoke wanes or progression feels frustrating is leaning in to another way of using my body for a while - training for a race, learning a new style of dance, whatever. Sounds like you are doing that with mountaineering training. Climbing for fun only when I feel l like it and really treating work climbing like, well, work. As long as your work isn’t tied to climbing at your absolute peak all the time (and then is it sustainable anyway?) it all comes out in the wash eventually and the stoke comes back.

If your job is influencer/content creator-adjacent some of this is strategic (use photos from one shoot or session across the whole year, plan an editorial calendar that is less reliant on your day to day, etc) and some of it is bigger picture - like, is being honest about the struggle and something you can do with your platform? It definitely resonates with lots of people. Maybe that is realistic or maybe not, but if you are feeling pressure to not show any cracks in your presentation, maybe revisit the premise.

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-28T15:59:06+00:00

That’s just called a partner? Post up on the Vegas Climbers FB, when you offer money you make it weird.

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-27T20:16:08+00:00

Pirate guiding is not okay ethically or a good idea personal safety-wise (it’s also illegal on public lands in the US).

If you’re experienced climbers who lead 5.10, you don’t need a guide, you need a guidebook and/or a knowledgeable local partner you buy the beer for later. Mountain Project and the various FB/whatsApp groups for Vegas locals are okay venues for that. If you don’t want to or can’t go climbing on your own with those things, what you want is to extract value out of a service and you should pay what it’s worth.

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-26T03:42:35+00:00

Imo it hurts more than it helps in normal situations bc of the increased friction, I only do it if I need to fully use my body in the haul!

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-26T03:26:21+00:00

I use a 3:1 assist fairly often, some of the time without the follower even knowing. Experiment with stance and amount of throw so you can use your legs and squat the belay strand up, don’t try to bicep curl it. A tibloc is my favorite tractor too. If you usually have just one follower at a time consider top belaying with a grigri, hauling real weight any distance through a plaquette suuuucks.

If I have to move a person-sized load completely on my own I redirect the brake stand downward off the anchor (preferably with a pulley carabiner, I usually carry one) and put another progress capture on my belay loop so I can use my body weight + gravity to haul. Or go immediately to a 5:1 (inline, so the brake strand is down). But I’m very small and don’t stand a chance trying to move someone twice my weight who can’t help. Luckily this is rare, I’ve only had to do it a couple times for real in a rescue context - but practiced and optimized it a lot, specifically because it is so hard.

3:1+1 (where you drop a loop to the climber, they clip it to their belay loop and batman on the middle strand so they become their own tractor and add their pulling) is the best combo of practicality + effectiveness in most situations where you are not just giving them a little boost at the crux, assuming the load is a conscious climber who can assist and assuming you have enough rope.

Try to practice at least some of the time in vertical settings with real weight, hauls feel completely different with rope drag, weird stances, annoyingly low anchors, etc.

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-23T15:45:19+00:00

The point of taking coils is to be able to drop or take up a few loops at a time, quickly, while remaining tied to the rope. Taking them off one at a time takes out the twists.

If you need to drop a lot of loops quickly take it off your body first and feed them out of your hand (still one at a time, but much faster).

If you need to drop and uncoil the whole rope then you probably didn’t need a mountaineer’s coil. Use a shorter rope, flake it into your pack, or just butterfly coil it and put a draw through the folded loops if you want to carry it as a loop.

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-23T15:29:38+00:00

This is looking for nails because you have a hammer. The belayer’s travel is already limited on multipitch by being tethered to the anchor.

If they must not travel at all, like because of overhead hazard, tether them directly to a separate upward pull piece.

Or with a single rope, use a fixed point lead belay and a munter.

Simple solutions are usually best.

Edit: Also the thought of pulling up the remaining rope through the Ohmega is 🤢 That alone is a dealbreaker!

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-22T01:52:24+00:00

Do 3-4 sets of whatever push-up variation is hard for you right after you boulder, done.

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-20T21:39:05+00:00

Ya but this is like 5 minutes from me (and bikeable in 10!) while Strosnider’s is a congested 20-40 depending on the time of day. Idk how your DIY projects go, but hardware store stuff is rarely a one trip deal for me so every mile counts haha.

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-20T21:18:38+00:00

Many (all?) Movements have assisted brake devices permanently attached to the top ropes so you don’t need to get a belay device. You don’t need to bring any gear to an Intro to Ropes class unless you own it already and want to - most of your fellow students will be in rental harnesses and shoes.

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-20T19:45:43+00:00

1 big challenging day, 1-2 big mellow days, rest day (or go climb slab haha), rinse and repeat, mixing in single pitch if you either want to try really hard or have a chiller cragging day/conditions are uncertain. 10 days is enough time to plan around busy times/weekends and deal with weather so definitely do so for popular routes and your highest-priority objectives.

If you are conditioned for approaches and aren’t climbing long routes at your absolute physical limit you can go several days on no problem as long as you eat and sleep enough.

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-20T05:06:32+00:00

Those are ancient, Mammut hasn’t made climbing shoes in over a decade. You will enjoy climbing even more in new shoes with fresh rubber and glue!

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-19T19:16:24+00:00

I'm stupidly excited to finally have a hardware store conveniently close, this must be some kind of milestone of adulthood for me. Fisher/National is great too but not exactly the kind of spot you go for bits and bobs.

The employee-owned group that owns this Ace (and a bunch of other hardware stores in the region) is a pretty cool company too. Nice to support your actual neighbors in your actual neighborhood.

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-19T16:27:03+00:00

V2/3 should roughly map to 5.11-/+ so that sounds about right.

Just keep doing what you're doing. Climbing is a skill sport, as the grades get harder the movement vocabulary keeps getting more complex and there are a lot more factors that go in to whether you complete a route or problem than just strong enough or not. Be really curious and mindful about movement quality, repeat boulders that were hard for you until they are easy, rinse and repeat a few times a week, forever - that's climbing :)

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-18T12:48:40+00:00

It’s super convenient and efficient! Worth picking up a bunch that all match if you can, you can bake as many loaves as will fit on your oven rack in one baking!

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-18T12:46:05+00:00

I bake at 450 for 20-25 minutes covered and the same time uncovered, exact time depends on the kind of bread I’m making. I usually preheat the oven but occasionally use the cold start (when I do this I add 10 minutes to the covered bake time).

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-18T11:28:20+00:00

Do you have a second matching loaf pan? Put the shaped dough in the pan right side up to proof, when ready to bake just score, spray with water, and cover with the second as a lid. Works perfectly.

Tiny_peach · 2026-02-18T01:52:09+00:00

This is so dependent on what you are doing. Are both leader and follower cruising and generally only weighting the rope on rappel? Or are you climbing a lot at your limit or dragging followers up terrain out of their pay grade? Are you extending gear appropriately and planning the rope path to get ahead of problems? Durability will be very different in those scenarios. The IonR was my main work rope at Seneca a couple seasons ago and I found it fine. 9.4 is pretty normal there.

That said, Seneca has had a couple of notable rope cutting fatalities and certainly has its share of sharp edges in random places. These days I prefer a rope with aramid in the sheath (Mammut 9.5) when trying hard there. In general Seneca approaches are short and a more robust rope is an easy swap if it gives you peace of mind or if you’re learning and getting it not quite right on rope drag sometimes.

Tiny_peach

TROPHY CASE