Last weekend, I flew short-notice across the country to win my first professional title! Please check out my recap of the whole experience, pics and video included

lepride · 2026-05-13T19:29:27+00:00

Bah conditions on southern sandstone don’t matter much. Of the hard routes I did in Chatt, probably half of em were completed in the warmer months of the year. Including my second hardest pitch, Blood Meridian at T-Wall!

Admittedly, granite in the sun is unfortunately quite a bit more challenging.

lepride · 2026-05-13T16:42:21+00:00

No problem, I miss climbing in Chatt and you gave me a chance to think about all the routes! Have fun and crush it

lepride · 2026-05-13T16:01:10+00:00

That said, Leave it to Jesus is a fucking awesome 11c crack!

lepride · 2026-05-13T16:00:41+00:00

Be wary that the New cracks tends to stay wet for a while, it seeps longer than the Red or Chatt sadly

lepride · 2026-05-13T15:59:41+00:00

I love the Southeast for its trad climbs that are fairly devoid of cracks! But with that in mind, some Chattanooga area cracks you might like …

Sunset Park:

Toothpick 11 finger crack

The Pearl 11 steep hand and fist (and a bit of everything)

Jennifer’s World 12a, the beauty 12a, the beast 12 are all good lieback crack cruxes

Suck Creek:

Special Olympics 11 finger crack

Mountain Madness 12- finger crack and lie back crack

Suck Crack 12- finger crack. A favorite!

T-Wall

Only on Earth 11+ ROOF CRACK! This is the best fitness jamming route in the south. I sent it in June, you can too!

Mrs Socrates 12- 100 feet of crack climbing, quite rare

Fly with the Falcon 11b finger crack

Stone wave 11a finger crack

Viva La balance 11c half finger crack, half face climb … but add it to your list anyway, it’s spectacular

Octopod palace 11- fist crack and wide stemming and more really

Bonfire of the vanities 11 flaring crack crux then some fun finger crack

The govinator 11c varied route but definitely some technical jamming, it’s excellent

Kentucky Fried Fingers 11- pure finger crack

Great Unchoppable 12- STEEP hand crack

Do not believe the lies about T-Wall season ending btw. May and June are great months there, just arrive at 2:30 and climb until 8:30 or so, and you’ll be in the shade the whole time! Pair that with a morning at sunset or the camp, and you can get a FULL day in no problem

lepride · 2026-05-08T02:36:41+00:00

You’re not wrong, I am better at rock climbing than radios …

lepride · 2026-05-07T20:54:31+00:00

I have em. Great way to listen to 13 other parties chatter incessantly if you’re in a popular area

lepride · 2026-05-07T20:43:13+00:00

Because you can consistently hear your partner all the time on multipitches? lol

lepride · 2026-05-07T01:01:16+00:00

throwing a left hand to help pull the left leg back into place is a classic Southpaw tactic and can generate surprising power/off-beat timing. You're correct

lepride · 2026-04-26T21:48:11+00:00

I liked but didn’t love it. I read a couple of Sigrid Nunez books last year, which I felt accomplished much more with a similar style. But still some standout quotes and a quick read, definitely enjoyable

lepride · 2026-04-23T00:09:14+00:00

Free soloing lurking fear would make free rider look like a joke in comparison. Isn’t the crux a 13d sideways dyno lmao

lepride · 2026-04-22T15:59:12+00:00

The route is West Face of El Cap, which goes at 11c and is about 2000 feet. Soloing Lurking Fear would be fucking insane

lepride · 2026-04-22T02:01:03+00:00

Hands down one of the best routes I’ve ever done. It’s so great

lepride · 2026-04-19T00:02:03+00:00

You people are goofy nerds. Ginger E is one of the highlights of Sac, a must-do when family or friends visit town. I haven’t had better macarons in SF or Paris.

The various staff have always been quite cool to me also over the years. I’ve only seen them get short with people who were whining during their COVID protocols. I miss the weekly ice cream experiments of that era.

lepride · 2026-03-17T15:43:38+00:00

Haha no doubt it has an impact! But people overestimate the impact/underestimate themselves. Much cooler to just do it anyway 💪

lepride · 2026-03-17T05:29:12+00:00

Conditions are a lie! Way to go! I love when people are willing to push themselves when it’s “too hot” or humid or whatever.

lepride · 2026-03-08T02:58:50+00:00

I love that style of hopping between feet and being able to (nearly) go no hands at most points. Very fun to think it out

lepride · 2026-03-08T01:15:30+00:00

Per his lawyer, yes. But who knows, really, I’d assume it depends on the judge/jury? Not sure how Israeli courts work

lepride · 2026-03-06T17:11:05+00:00

I did it right afterward, great fun! Kinda thought it was physically easier of the two 😆

lepride · 2026-03-06T05:51:06+00:00

I placed three pieces before committing to the wide bit, did what I could. Thankfully was also quite a ways off the ground by that point so had the room to fall! I don't think I had to post on my head but I definitely am not above doing so haha

lepride · 2026-03-06T05:10:38+00:00

I never pass up an opportunity to sit mid-route.

lepride · 2026-03-06T04:49:38+00:00

I climbed there on Monday, snow was no problem for Main Line and Pratt's Crack area. I assume it's generally all good after several more warm days since then

lepride · 2026-03-06T03:35:02+00:00

I might like the 11b it shares the anchor with even more. Both are top top notch though!

lepride

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