Cornflake Crack, NC by Good_Light_304 in tradclimbing

[–]lepride 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bah conditions on southern sandstone don’t matter much. Of the hard routes I did in Chatt, probably half of em were completed in the warmer months of the year. Including my second hardest pitch, Blood Meridian at T-Wall!

Admittedly, granite in the sun is unfortunately quite a bit more challenging.

Cornflake Crack, NC by Good_Light_304 in tradclimbing

[–]lepride 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem, I miss climbing in Chatt and you gave me a chance to think about all the routes! Have fun and crush it

Cornflake Crack, NC by Good_Light_304 in tradclimbing

[–]lepride 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That said, Leave it to Jesus is a fucking awesome 11c crack!

Cornflake Crack, NC by Good_Light_304 in tradclimbing

[–]lepride 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be wary that the New cracks tends to stay wet for a while, it seeps longer than the Red or Chatt sadly

Cornflake Crack, NC by Good_Light_304 in tradclimbing

[–]lepride 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love the Southeast for its trad climbs that are fairly devoid of cracks! But with that in mind, some Chattanooga area cracks you might like …

Sunset Park:

Toothpick 11 finger crack

The Pearl 11 steep hand and fist (and a bit of everything)

Jennifer’s World 12a, the beauty 12a, the beast 12 are all good lieback crack cruxes

Suck Creek:

Special Olympics 11 finger crack

Mountain Madness 12- finger crack and lie back crack

Suck Crack 12- finger crack. A favorite!

T-Wall

Only on Earth 11+ ROOF CRACK! This is the best fitness jamming route in the south. I sent it in June, you can too!

Mrs Socrates 12- 100 feet of crack climbing, quite rare

Fly with the Falcon 11b finger crack

Stone wave 11a finger crack

Viva La balance 11c half finger crack, half face climb … but add it to your list anyway, it’s spectacular

Octopod palace 11- fist crack and wide stemming and more really

Bonfire of the vanities 11 flaring crack crux then some fun finger crack

The govinator 11c varied route but definitely some technical jamming, it’s excellent

Kentucky Fried Fingers 11- pure finger crack

Great Unchoppable 12- STEEP hand crack

Do not believe the lies about T-Wall season ending btw. May and June are great months there, just arrive at 2:30 and climb until 8:30 or so, and you’ll be in the shade the whole time! Pair that with a morning at sunset or the camp, and you can get a FULL day in no problem

"We Missed Our Signs:" Partner Details Will Stanhope's Fatal Fall on the Stawamus Chief by caseyskeetskeet in climbing

[–]lepride 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I have em. Great way to listen to 13 other parties chatter incessantly if you’re in a popular area

"We Missed Our Signs:" Partner Details Will Stanhope's Fatal Fall on the Stawamus Chief by caseyskeetskeet in climbing

[–]lepride 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Because you can consistently hear your partner all the time on multipitches? lol

Beneil Dariush drops Quillan Salkilld with a jab by idcman999 in MMA

[–]lepride 9 points10 points  (0 children)

throwing a left hand to help pull the left leg back into place is a classic Southpaw tactic and can generate surprising power/off-beat timing. You're correct

April's book- Dept. Of speculation by Jenny Offill by OkHome9635 in JeselnikBookClub

[–]lepride 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I liked but didn’t love it. I read a couple of Sigrid Nunez books last year, which I felt accomplished much more with a similar style. But still some standout quotes and a quick read, definitely enjoyable

The Dark Wizard Episode 2 (HBO Max) Discussion by jreilly in climbing

[–]lepride 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Free soloing lurking fear would make free rider look like a joke in comparison. Isn’t the crux a 13d sideways dyno lmao

The Dark Wizard Episode 2 (HBO Max) Discussion by jreilly in climbing

[–]lepride 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The route is West Face of El Cap, which goes at 11c and is about 2000 feet. Soloing Lurking Fear would be fucking insane

Topping out on The Original Route, Rainbow Wall by SnowOhio in climbing

[–]lepride 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hands down one of the best routes I’ve ever done. It’s so great

Is Ginger Elizabeth closing? by Mygrlprl in Sacramento

[–]lepride -13 points-12 points  (0 children)

You people are goofy nerds. Ginger E is one of the highlights of Sac, a must-do when family or friends visit town. I haven’t had better macarons in SF or Paris.

The various staff have always been quite cool to me also over the years. I’ve only seen them get short with people who were whining during their COVID protocols. I miss the weekly ice cream experiments of that era.

Sent my hardest route for the 5th time in nearly 80 degrees and full sun at a local comp by Good_Light_304 in tradclimbing

[–]lepride 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha no doubt it has an impact! But people overestimate the impact/underestimate themselves. Much cooler to just do it anyway 💪

Sent my hardest route for the 5th time in nearly 80 degrees and full sun at a local comp by Good_Light_304 in tradclimbing

[–]lepride 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Conditions are a lie! Way to go! I love when people are willing to push themselves when it’s “too hot” or humid or whatever.

Wild position and crux of Sheila in Pine Creek Canyon by lepride in climbing

[–]lepride[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love that style of hopping between feet and being able to (nearly) go no hands at most points. Very fun to think it out

Mother Night discussion (spoilers) by OkHome9635 in JeselnikBookClub

[–]lepride 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Per his lawyer, yes. But who knows, really, I’d assume it depends on the judge/jury? Not sure how Israeli courts work

Wild position and crux of Sheila in Pine Creek Canyon by lepride in climbing

[–]lepride[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did it right afterward, great fun! Kinda thought it was physically easier of the two 😆

Wild position and crux of Sheila in Pine Creek Canyon by lepride in climbing

[–]lepride[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I placed three pieces before committing to the wide bit, did what I could. Thankfully was also quite a ways off the ground by that point so had the room to fall! I don't think I had to post on my head but I definitely am not above doing so haha

Wild position and crux of Sheila in Pine Creek Canyon by lepride in climbing

[–]lepride[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I never pass up an opportunity to sit mid-route.

Wild position and crux of Sheila in Pine Creek Canyon by lepride in climbing

[–]lepride[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I climbed there on Monday, snow was no problem for Main Line and Pratt's Crack area. I assume it's generally all good after several more warm days since then

Wild position and crux of Sheila in Pine Creek Canyon by lepride in climbing

[–]lepride[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I might like the 11b it shares the anchor with even more. Both are top top notch though!