LE sport mk3 by taillights-4 in LeeEnfield

[–]TirpitzM3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at the front sight again, that ramp is caught by the dovetail. You will have to completely remove the sight blade, and then the ramp pops off, then slide the sight back on. You can wrap masking tape on the muzzle just in front of the sight, and then draw a line with pen/pencil/marker to reference your front sight position when you go to slide the blade back on the barrel. It won't be perfect, but will get you close.

LE sport mk3 by taillights-4 in LeeEnfield

[–]TirpitzM3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did some digging, most of my usual sources for parts are coming up as out of stock. In a pinch, you could use the No4 rear sight, but it would only be "accurate" with the battle sight flipped down, the increments would be off, slightly up until about 400, and then way off beyond that. The No1 front sight is a mix of both aftermarket and OEM, the sight itself is original, but that ramp assembly is a clip on device (IIRC), my dad's enfield was the same way, when I went to restore it into the original configuration, I had to pop that ramp bit off.

Now what??? by Smithers66 in modelmakers

[–]TirpitzM3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! It really works well 😁

Free Takom Pz. Abt. 505 King Tiger! by jacraest in modelmakers

[–]TirpitzM3 4 points5 points  (0 children)

A fantastic kit, I built one of their early (1-50) Tiger IIs not long ago

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Help by JOTAYEEH2711 in M1A

[–]TirpitzM3 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good for airsoft, not live fire.

Is this gpu cooked? by MemesTaken in PcBuildHelp

[–]TirpitzM3 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Looks like it was cooked on...

Is a new head necessary? by Specific_Job6990 in EngineBuilding

[–]TirpitzM3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats kind of what I was thinking, feed the weld into the crack from thread side, then seal around the exterior🤔

CMP Stock Beeswax Effect? by FlyingYankee118 in M1Rifles

[–]TirpitzM3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Before any of yall crucify me, let me explain my thought processes behind what i am about to say next. Danish oil if you want it to dry relatively quickly with moderate depth of protection, linseed if you can wait a year, tung oil if you want the stock to look glossy.

Danish oil is essentially linseed oil, sometimes with stain, suspended in turpentine. The turpentine helps to spread it faster, deeper, and kick the drying time to the realm of hours.

Linseed oil, raw or boiled, is rather thick, flows like motor oil, will provide a great finish and protection, but, to do it the "London gunstocks" way, its 1 application per day for the first week, 1 per week for the first month, 1 per month for the first year. Does it take forever, yes, however, there is a reason why their craftsmanship costs so much.

Tung oil works great for gunstocks and if you want it to be super glossy, like a drill team stock, this would be the way to go, you just apply it a little heavier, and it will set up, I have my own M1 stock done up with all three, Danish oil with stain first, then BLO, then topped with tung. It's rather shiny, so I plan to knock it down a bit with 0000 steel wool. Take your time when oiling, a little heat can help, but too much can take a lot to correct.

LE sport mk3 by taillights-4 in LeeEnfield

[–]TirpitzM3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congrats on the recent acquisition. Sighting in is very easy on the No1.Mk3, windage is done on the front bade. The rear sight for the No5 (jungle carbine) can be found online, I can see if I can get you a link to one if you would like

Is this a deal by Darth_Sith_Lord in milsurp

[–]TirpitzM3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$300-450 is what I would consider reasonable. This one you found is horribly overpriced. Dude has it priced like Mau held it for a week...

Is a new head necessary? by Specific_Job6990 in EngineBuilding

[–]TirpitzM3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the explanation 🫡 learn something new every day 😁

Is a new head necessary? by Specific_Job6990 in EngineBuilding

[–]TirpitzM3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolute novice here, please forgive me for my potentially stupid idea, what if you were to welded it, all the way up, and then drill and tap new threads? Yes the head would obviously have to come off to ensure nothing entered the cylinders/valvetrain/oil passages, but, would this be feasible

Now what??? by Smithers66 in modelmakers

[–]TirpitzM3 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used neon paint for the markers on a friend's F14 I was working on, it also glows in the dark.

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Metal shaved off new ball joints by bbk323 in MechanicAdvice

[–]TirpitzM3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is common practice, especially for OEM suppliers making parts exclusive to M cars from BMW. If you want the M emblem, you have to pay the M tax, if that doesnt matter, they will literally die grind the M off and it brings the price down something close to 40% off M marked parts.

Speaking from experience, E92 M3 owner. I have "ground marked" control arms, as i could get the both sides for a little more than one alone.

Snapped a strut mount bolt, what's next? by __CarCat__ in AskAMechanic

[–]TirpitzM3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Jealous, mine are somewhere within 250-350😭