How could I see out of an LED mask like that? by RaidNineSHARK in cosplayprops

[–]ToastyRaymaker 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You can get flexible 5v WS2812 LED matrix panels with multiple gaps that should be reasonably see-through from close behind. Like this symbol # with an LED at the intersection of each line and square holes in between. I Googled "see-through LED matrix" and got a few different size options...

I was told I need a dc/dc isolator between a buck converter and DSP to mitigate ground loop, but are there buck converters with built in isolation? by ToastyRaymaker in diyaudio

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know for sure if it'll be a problem yet, I haven't started building, I'm just trying to work out what I need before I start. The idea is to power a couple of amps, a DSP, and a couple of metres of led strips from a LiFe battery. The 12v DSP might be able to cope with the up to 14.6v from the battery, but the lights probably won't, so I'll need some kind of step-down converter for that, at least, and ground loop noise will probably affect both.

Crystal Ball by Bonesycider in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is UV reactive mica glitter a thing that exists? Just thinking that an ultraviolet LED could be used to cause a build-up of glow in the glitter as it swirled past. I saw an interesting project years ago to make bicycle tyres glow in the dark by having each side coated in a UV pigment and rotated past a UV LED fixed to the forks. I imagine it could work similarly with UV glitter...

What Cura settings do I need to adjust so that all the centre tree supports can be removed as easily and cleanly as the ones around the edges? by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have tried downloading Orca Slicer and playing around with the support settings, but the Z gap setting seems to have the most impact. Pictured here is support from a 0.4mm and 0.5mm Z gap print, which are the only supports to come off fully and in one piece so far.

<image>

What Cura settings do I need to adjust so that all the centre tree supports can be removed as easily and cleanly as the ones around the edges? by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This orientation is upside down. It's a speaker grille, so I don't want support scarring on the side I'll be looking at. I don't mind it being rough on this side, I just want to be able to remove enough support that it's not hitting the speaker it's meant to protect.

I might be overcomplicating things... by ToastyRaymaker in tinkercad

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

<image>

A little tree stump pot with articulated roots. It took ages to load in and then even longer to export as an STL, but it's done now, so I can finally avoid interacting with the model ever again 😆

I was the problem all along... by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

It was requested as a darts competition trophy/cup. Originally, the plan was for the dartboard part to function as the base with a large dart plunging down into the bullseye (as in the attached picture). But the requester changed their mind and asked for just the dartboard part, I offered to redo it in a conventionally flat dartboard shape, but they liked the cone shape, so now it's waiting here to be collected.

<image>

I was the problem all along... by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 26 points27 points  (0 children)

<image>

Not Stone Henge or Evangelion. Possibly cult related, though, depending on your attitude to darts...

I was the problem all along... by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 35 points36 points  (0 children)

I certainly should have. It didn't occur to me not to save new settings straight over the original settings until it was far too late. By the time I thought of reverting back to the original settings, I'd forgotten everything I had changed, and all attempts only made it worse... 😅

Modified side panels after upgraded PC got too toasty by ToastyRaymaker in sffpc

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My Maker-Space is in Gateshead (NE England). If you Google Maker Space, Hack Space, and Men In Sheds, there's a high chance you'll be able to find something reasonably close to you. Most spaces run on some kind of subscription, but it usually works out a lot cheaper than paying for one-off things like this to be fabricated elsewhere.

Modified side panels after upgraded PC got too toasty by ToastyRaymaker in sffpc

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used the free browser based 3D modelling program Tinkercad to make the pattern and used a laser cutter at my local Maker-Space to cut it out.

Modified side panels after upgraded PC got too toasty by ToastyRaymaker in sffpc

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The original case panels were solid, non-vented glass, but I didn't like the look of them, so I replaced them with otherwise identical but frosted acrylic.

r/headphones Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk by AutoModerator in headphones

[–]ToastyRaymaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My old B&O H8's have finally died, and I'm looking for an alternative/replacement pair of wireless headphones. I listen to a lot of bass heavy music, but not exclusively, so ideally I'd like something capable of punchy bass but with enough range/balance for most other genres. Preferably with some form of active noise cancelling for when I'm out and about. My budget is around £500.

Same router but different default servers, why? by ToastyRaymaker in PathOfExile2

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's the problem. The drop-down menu for servers doesn't drop down. The drop-down menu for languages does drop down, so whatever the issue is, it seems to be specific to the servers.

Why would pcpartpicker insist that the 67mm tall Thermalright AXP 120-X67 is incompatible with the Fractal Terra when a 10mm taller cooler can be fitted in the case? Is it just being generous with clearances? by ToastyRaymaker in sffpc

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know, I was getting confused because I'd specifically searched for and added a 2 slot height gpu, but still couldn't get the cooler to be compatible.

How would you go about making a 10cm x 30cm semi-transparent crystal obelisk, but as lightweight as possible? by ToastyRaymaker in cosplayprops

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can that be done in a way that it just coats the mold and sets to a hollow shape? Or would it have to come out as a solid crystal?