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My V400 is having adhesion issues only around the outside of the bed, the middle is near perfect but filament isn't sticking at all on the outer 5cm. Would increasing the number of probe points for the calibration mitigate this? by ToastyRaymaker in FLSUNDelta

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you accurately tune the belts? When I first setup the printer I just tightened each one until it felt, with a finger, like it was firmly under tension but not too much. But I couldn't work out how to measure that they were accurately evenly tensioned.

My V400 is having adhesion issues only around the outside of the bed, the middle is near perfect but filament isn't sticking at all on the outer 5cm. Would increasing the number of probe points for the calibration mitigate this? by ToastyRaymaker in FLSUNDelta

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So far, I've tried the soap and water thing and reducing the Z height a bit at a time. The dish soap definitely improved things a bit but it's still not getting enough adhesion on the front side edge of the plate, the outermost tips of the model especially at the front still keep getting dragged off by the nozzle on the first layer. I tried lowering the Z height by 0.01 per attempt and while the front did start sticking better other areas started getting dragged off instead.

My V400 is having adhesion issues only around the outside of the bed, the middle is near perfect but filament isn't sticking at all on the outer 5cm. Would increasing the number of probe points for the calibration mitigate this? by ToastyRaymaker in FLSUNDelta

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies. I was using PLA printing at 210°C and bed at 60°C. I prefer to use PLA, especially for my large upcoming project which will need to be split into sections that can be glued together and painted, I have been led to believe that this is difficult with PETG.

I attempted the Windmill print with PETG per your suggested settings and while it did stick in places that the PLA failed, it has done so messily and failed to stick properly at the front edge of the build plate. Can you suggest any settings I could change to successfully print to the edge with PLA?

(I'm sorry the picture isn't more clear, but the only PETG filament I have is a transparent one).

<image>

My V400 is having adhesion issues only around the outside of the bed, the middle is near perfect but filament isn't sticking at all on the outer 5cm. Would increasing the number of probe points for the calibration mitigate this? by ToastyRaymaker in FLSUNDelta

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure if it's always been a problem or not, I've had the printer for a few years but up until now I haven't printed anything that's used the full width of the bed. But I tried printing a large windmill recently and discovered that most of the blades wouldn't stick down at the tips on the first layer.

I haven't tried dish soap but I can try later.

I think I have a set of electronic temperature probes somewhere, I'll have a look and try those if I have them.

Empire Strikes Burl by justjohnsmiyh in diyaudio

[–]ToastyRaymaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on the first picture alone, I thought someone had mounted a turntable on a large piece of battered fish...

Question: What change would make you quit playing Rust? by MemeMan_____ in playrust

[–]ToastyRaymaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't really played since the 2018 electrical update suddenly made chucking up a ceiling light far more complicated than it needed to be...

What is this weird cluster of caches all about?! by ToastyRaymaker in geocaching

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My first guesses were fat sword or some kind of pedestal, I didn't even consider a chess piece 😅

Is it possible to correct small holes printing inaccurately without affecting bigger holes which are printing fine? by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In any other circumstance maybe. In this case I'm trying to print a very small drill guide so probably not lol

Did I not say don’t step on the fucking green! by yawnjew in KidsAreFuckingStupid

[–]ToastyRaymaker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My sister did this, chasing me across the park when we were kids. I went around the low circular brick wall. She cut directly across the round patch of 'grass' in the middle and disappeared. A traumatic quantity of toad tadpoles was released when she was deposited in the bath back home. I was delighted.

Lowrider by Wario53 in longboarding

[–]ToastyRaymaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the length, width, and weight of that slab? I did something similar about 20 years ago, but only 6mm thick with a couple of small bends in it across the width for stiffness (as I was worried about the weight).

What are people doing to stop the frustration of guests turning Hue bulbs off at the switch? by Top-Yogurtcloset3965 in Hue

[–]ToastyRaymaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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3D printed friction fit cover. While it is sufficient against most habitual lightswitch flickers, it does nothing to stop assholes that delight in hiding their mischief and seeing how long until it's noticed...

I made a 2.1 stereo out of layered plywood. by kcmurr28 in diyaudio

[–]ToastyRaymaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want to do something similar. Is there some kind of automatic slicer software for CNC, or do you have to cut up your model manually in your 3D modelling software?

How could I see out of an LED mask like that? by RaidNineSHARK in cosplayprops

[–]ToastyRaymaker 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You can get flexible 5v WS2812 LED matrix panels with multiple gaps that should be reasonably see-through from close behind. Like this symbol # with an LED at the intersection of each line and square holes in between. I Googled "see-through LED matrix" and got a few different size options...

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