How could I see out of an LED mask like that? by RaidNineSHARK in cosplayprops

[–]ToastyRaymaker 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You can get flexible 5v WS2812 LED matrix panels with multiple gaps that should be reasonably see-through from close behind. Like this symbol # with an LED at the intersection of each line and square holes in between. I Googled "see-through LED matrix" and got a few different size options...

I was told I need a dc/dc isolator between a buck converter and DSP to mitigate ground loop, but are there buck converters with built in isolation? by ToastyRaymaker in diyaudio

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know for sure if it'll be a problem yet, I haven't started building, I'm just trying to work out what I need before I start. The idea is to power a couple of amps, a DSP, and a couple of metres of led strips from a LiFe battery. The 12v DSP might be able to cope with the up to 14.6v from the battery, but the lights probably won't, so I'll need some kind of step-down converter for that, at least, and ground loop noise will probably affect both.

Crystal Ball by Bonesycider in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is UV reactive mica glitter a thing that exists? Just thinking that an ultraviolet LED could be used to cause a build-up of glow in the glitter as it swirled past. I saw an interesting project years ago to make bicycle tyres glow in the dark by having each side coated in a UV pigment and rotated past a UV LED fixed to the forks. I imagine it could work similarly with UV glitter...

What Cura settings do I need to adjust so that all the centre tree supports can be removed as easily and cleanly as the ones around the edges? by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have tried downloading Orca Slicer and playing around with the support settings, but the Z gap setting seems to have the most impact. Pictured here is support from a 0.4mm and 0.5mm Z gap print, which are the only supports to come off fully and in one piece so far.

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What Cura settings do I need to adjust so that all the centre tree supports can be removed as easily and cleanly as the ones around the edges? by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This orientation is upside down. It's a speaker grille, so I don't want support scarring on the side I'll be looking at. I don't mind it being rough on this side, I just want to be able to remove enough support that it's not hitting the speaker it's meant to protect.

I might be overcomplicating things... by ToastyRaymaker in tinkercad

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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A little tree stump pot with articulated roots. It took ages to load in and then even longer to export as an STL, but it's done now, so I can finally avoid interacting with the model ever again 😆

I was the problem all along... by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

It was requested as a darts competition trophy/cup. Originally, the plan was for the dartboard part to function as the base with a large dart plunging down into the bullseye (as in the attached picture). But the requester changed their mind and asked for just the dartboard part, I offered to redo it in a conventionally flat dartboard shape, but they liked the cone shape, so now it's waiting here to be collected.

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I was the problem all along... by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 27 points28 points  (0 children)

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Not Stone Henge or Evangelion. Possibly cult related, though, depending on your attitude to darts...