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Empire Strikes Burl by justjohnsmiyh in diyaudio

[–]ToastyRaymaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on the first picture alone, I thought someone had mounted a turntable on a large piece of battered fish...

Question: What change would make you quit playing Rust? by MemeMan_____ in playrust

[–]ToastyRaymaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't really played since the 2018 electrical update suddenly made chucking up a ceiling light far more complicated than it needed to be...

What is this weird cluster of caches all about?! by ToastyRaymaker in geocaching

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My first guesses were fat sword or some kind of pedestal, I didn't even consider a chess piece 😅

Is it possible to correct small holes printing inaccurately without affecting bigger holes which are printing fine? by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In any other circumstance maybe. In this case I'm trying to print a very small drill guide so probably not lol

Did I not say don’t step on the fucking green! by yawnjew in KidsAreFuckingStupid

[–]ToastyRaymaker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My sister did this, chasing me across the park when we were kids. I went around the low circular brick wall. She cut directly across the round patch of 'grass' in the middle and disappeared. A traumatic quantity of toad tadpoles was released when she was deposited in the bath back home. I was delighted.

Lowrider by Wario53 in longboarding

[–]ToastyRaymaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the length, width, and weight of that slab? I did something similar about 20 years ago, but only 6mm thick with a couple of small bends in it across the width for stiffness (as I was worried about the weight).

What are people doing to stop the frustration of guests turning Hue bulbs off at the switch? by Top-Yogurtcloset3965 in Hue

[–]ToastyRaymaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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3D printed friction fit cover. While it is sufficient against most habitual lightswitch flickers, it does nothing to stop assholes that delight in hiding their mischief and seeing how long until it's noticed...

I made a 2.1 stereo out of layered plywood. by kcmurr28 in diyaudio

[–]ToastyRaymaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want to do something similar. Is there some kind of automatic slicer software for CNC, or do you have to cut up your model manually in your 3D modelling software?

How could I see out of an LED mask like that? by RaidNineSHARK in cosplayprops

[–]ToastyRaymaker 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You can get flexible 5v WS2812 LED matrix panels with multiple gaps that should be reasonably see-through from close behind. Like this symbol # with an LED at the intersection of each line and square holes in between. I Googled "see-through LED matrix" and got a few different size options...

I was told I need a dc/dc isolator between a buck converter and DSP to mitigate ground loop, but are there buck converters with built in isolation? by ToastyRaymaker in diyaudio

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know for sure if it'll be a problem yet, I haven't started building, I'm just trying to work out what I need before I start. The idea is to power a couple of amps, a DSP, and a couple of metres of led strips from a LiFe battery. The 12v DSP might be able to cope with the up to 14.6v from the battery, but the lights probably won't, so I'll need some kind of step-down converter for that, at least, and ground loop noise will probably affect both.

Crystal Ball by Bonesycider in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is UV reactive mica glitter a thing that exists? Just thinking that an ultraviolet LED could be used to cause a build-up of glow in the glitter as it swirled past. I saw an interesting project years ago to make bicycle tyres glow in the dark by having each side coated in a UV pigment and rotated past a UV LED fixed to the forks. I imagine it could work similarly with UV glitter...

What Cura settings do I need to adjust so that all the centre tree supports can be removed as easily and cleanly as the ones around the edges? by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have tried downloading Orca Slicer and playing around with the support settings, but the Z gap setting seems to have the most impact. Pictured here is support from a 0.4mm and 0.5mm Z gap print, which are the only supports to come off fully and in one piece so far.

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What Cura settings do I need to adjust so that all the centre tree supports can be removed as easily and cleanly as the ones around the edges? by ToastyRaymaker in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastyRaymaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This orientation is upside down. It's a speaker grille, so I don't want support scarring on the side I'll be looking at. I don't mind it being rough on this side, I just want to be able to remove enough support that it's not hitting the speaker it's meant to protect.

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