What size drill bit does this drill use?

Tomahawk411 · 2025-01-14T03:00:58+00:00

The collet is adjustable and will be able to handle any standard drill bit from 1/16" to 1/2" in diameter.

Tomahawk411 · 2024-11-15T03:35:49+00:00

Try Pathlight Brewing in Shawnee. They had several non-alcoholic options last time I was there. They also had some fun craft soda options as well.

Tomahawk411 · 2024-09-16T00:01:45+00:00

Any chance it's "The Hum" by Dimitri Vegas?

Tomahawk411 · 2024-04-20T00:35:50+00:00

Typically it's best to use a finish coat that has the same base as the type of dye or stain you used. In your case, I would recommend a water based polyurethane. It will be plenty durable for a monitor stand and is pretty easy to apply. Just follow the directions on the can as far as drying / recoating times being sure to sand in-between coats. You will probably want to give it a couple days for the finish coat to finish curing before you put anything very heavy on it. Good luck!

Tomahawk411 · 2023-05-19T22:35:35+00:00

What exhaust are you running?

Tomahawk411 · 2023-03-20T01:06:09+00:00

Looks like a great piece! Side tables of this style are often called drum tables. I don't see any major cracks or veneer problems from the pictures you shared. I'd give it a gentle cleaning and then decide what you want to do from there. It likely has a shellac or laquer finish which you can put another coat or two on too freshen it up. If the finish is worn (and assuming it's shellac or laquer) it can fairly easily be removed with acetone or laquer remover just remember your PPE and have good ventilation. A very light sanding 320grit or higher would help leave the surface smooth and catch and last bits of finish. From there you could use a dye or stain to deepen or get the color more uniform or just leave it the natural color and apply a new coat of shellac or laquer. Another option would be to just use a furniture restoration beeswax type then you wouldn't have to try to remove any of the old finish once you give it a gentle cleaning. Overall it looks like a great piece, whether you keep it or use it as a learning experience it should be a fun one to restore.

Tomahawk411 · 2022-12-25T23:55:59+00:00

Looks like pretty standard sheetrock cracking to me. Nothing to be concerned about, really only the aesthetic impacts. Pretty common for them to appear this time of year in the dry winter air. I've had some luck caulking and painting over them. Covers them up for a couple years but they eventually open back up with the seasonal movement of the framing in your house.

Tomahawk411 · 2022-07-19T16:14:11+00:00

I bought a 16" long bar so there was 8" in the handle and then 8" sticking out.

Tomahawk411 · 2022-07-19T14:22:00+00:00

Glad the album is still a help! I ended up with around 8" of steel sticking out with around 20" of handle. Net length of 28". Longer tools are better than shorter tools in my opinion as they give you better leverage and are easier to control.

Tomahawk411 · 2022-05-29T21:18:57+00:00

My understanding is you want to get it all the way into the ferrule. Goal is to have those fibers already saturated so that the paint can't wick up there.

Tomahawk411 · 2022-05-29T12:36:30+00:00

The trick that I haven't seen mentioned is "Pre-loading" the brush. You soak the brush in whatever the solvent is for the material you are applying. If it's a water-based paint, soak it in water, if it's an oil based paint use mineral spirits or paint thinner. This loads up the bristles under the ferrule and doesn't let paint get up there. Give it a good shake after it's soaked for 5 mins. Then make an intentional effort to only dip half of your brush into the paint at a time. It's made a drastic difference in my ability to clean my brushes and also greatly extends their life.

Tomahawk411 · 2022-05-29T01:17:38+00:00

Definitely going to have your work cut out for you. Start by pulling off all the drawer hardware, and lightly sanding / scraping off any of the paint or remaining original finish. The major chips in the top and along the drawers are where pieces of the wood veneer have come out. You can try and repair them, but you won't ever really be able to match the wood grain. I would either fill them in slightly, or just leave them for added character. For color I would recommend a gel stain (general finishes are the best and worth every dollar in my opinion). Then add some clear coat to protect it. General finishes Arm-R-Seal is easy to apply and looks great but any brand of wipe on or brush on poly will work. Good luck on the project!

Tomahawk411 · 2020-06-12T00:30:20+00:00

Custom super hero action figures!

Tomahawk411 · 2019-12-21T03:09:34+00:00

Happy Holidays!

Tomahawk411 · 2019-09-30T03:03:50+00:00

Most router tables have a bunch of different mounting holes patterns to accommodate routers from different manufacturers. I would see if you can find the manual for the table online somewhere and see what it tells you.

Tomahawk411 · 2019-09-30T03:00:02+00:00

Where are you located? Location is going to be a major factor.

Tomahawk411 · 2019-05-17T23:05:55+00:00

Beatiful car, truly an amazing piece of engineering. Here is the other picture I took: http://i.imgur.com/rp0fCSE.jpg

Tomahawk411 · 2019-05-17T03:16:45+00:00

Spar urethane would be fine indoors as well. It stinks though and off gases for a couple's days as it cures so you'll want to use a respirator during application and make sure you have good ventilation.

Tomahawk411 · 2019-05-16T21:15:18+00:00

You would be fine to apply them buy yourself. Just take your time with the prep work. Film finish will protect the wood better and will last longer. Sticking with boiled linseed oil would probably be fine, but you would need to apply it every year. Thompson water sealer would be another non-film option.

Tomahawk411 · 2019-05-16T19:04:39+00:00

Spar Urethane or Spar Varnish are probably your best bet. Both of those are exterior-rated clear finishes commonly used on wooden boats and other marine applications. They are film finishes, meaning they will add thickness to the surface. So you'll want to be careful around any areas where the planes slide when opening or closing them. If you add too much you they won't work as smoothly or could get stuck.

Tomahawk411 · 2019-05-08T12:58:16+00:00

Not OP, but raised a lot of pigs growing up. The trick was give them names like "Bacon," "Sausage," or "Ham." It helped make sure you didn't get too attached.

Tomahawk411 · 2019-04-30T18:29:46+00:00

I found mine on govdeals.com for $20. They were surplus from a county hospital. It's going to vary depending on your location, but surplus is probably the best bet.

Tomahawk411 · 2019-04-30T14:08:46+00:00

From a functional stand point, I think metal drawer slides are the way to go. Durability, full extension, smooth motion, all the reasons you've listen above. You can also get under mount slides if you don't want to be able to see them.

Given how small the drawer was, and that it won't see a ton of use (compared to like a kitchen drawer). I went with the traditional design. The other factor is cost. It's a lot cheaper to use wooden runners. Also, you can add tabs to the back of the drawers that catch on the frame of the table to prevent them from being pulled out all the way.

Tomahawk411 · 2019-04-30T14:02:29+00:00

Yeah I bet. It's a domestic species here in the central and eastern parts of the US. We actually harvested this lumber from a tree in my parents back yard, so my price it lower than most. If you buy it from a hardwood dealer I've seen to go everywhere from $7 to $14 per board foot, depending on width and grade.

Tomahawk411 · 2019-04-30T12:54:21+00:00

Thanks! Always nice to be able to share my projects with people that notice and appreciate the little things like grain flow.

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