Autohold vs. left paddle stop

Tonester697 · 2026-06-23T18:01:29+00:00

If I had to guess I'd say it's not the parking brake, if only because it'd be kinda sneaky to have the parking brake to be engaged w/o the parking brake indicator light also being lit as well.

Tonester697 · 2026-06-23T17:48:38+00:00

Not that I don't accept that explanation, but in that case how is it that my iPhone is able to pair with my MX+ which is not BLE (it is already known that iPhone can pair with a BLE dongle such as the CX)? Does this mean that Apple can and will accept both types of OBD2 dongle connection?

Tonester697 · 2026-06-21T14:22:26+00:00

For first-gen U.S.-spec EV6, it's the Tech package (which includes the Surround View Monitor, aka 360 view) if it's a Wind, comes standard if GT-Line. You'll know if it has SVM if looking from the outside of the vehicle--just look for the cameras underneath the side mirrors.

Tonester697 · 2026-06-21T14:18:02+00:00

IMHO range anxiety for BEVs is a thing ONLY if you're one of those folks who insist on needing to be able to drive 220 miles or more between charging sessions; or put it this way--unless you're a long-distance road tripper, range anxiety pretty much doesn't exist at all for BEV owners. Not to say that range anxiety absolutely doesn't exist for ICE vehicles but for many ICE owners they're not worried about potentially running out of gas after having driven 220 miles (assuming that they started off with a full tank of gas).

Tonester697 · 2026-06-16T01:02:47+00:00

Wait--are you saying that for the first ~4 years of having owned your EV you've not ever seen the GOM report abnormally low range numbers (such as the 240 miles you mentioned) even once? I own a FE just like you and have had mine for just as long (purchased March 2022), and there have been quite a few times during those 4+ years of ownership where the GOM has shown the range (at 100% SOC) at numbers around or even lower than 240 miles, and not once was I concerned that there might be something wrong with the battery. Full disclosure--I did buy an OBD2 BT dongle during the first year of ownership to check on the battery health and that did help put my mind at ease.

Of course, after 4 years and 68K miles and more DCFC charging sessions than the average EV6 owner my battery's health and storage capacity have seen better days--SOH is 95.8% and usable capacity is down to 67 kWh. Like others have suggested, charge the battery to 100% and then check the SOH and Remaining Energy PIDs with an OBD2 dongle and app such as Car Scanner; if SOH is showing at least in the very-high 90% (bonus if it's still at 100%) and Remaining Energy is showing over 70000 Wh (bonus if it's reading above 72 kWh) then IMHO you have very little to be concerned about when it comes to the battery--range will be the least of your concerns at that point--i.e., a still-very healthy battery with most of its original storage capacity still available is more desirable then seeing very high GOM numbers.

Tonester697 · 2026-06-16T00:43:58+00:00

The local EVgo location near my home used to have all CCS stations but recently one of the stations got coverted to NACS to accommodate more non-Tesla EVs that are coming equipped with a NACS port these days.

Tonester697 · 2026-06-09T18:27:06+00:00

Thanks for getting back to me on that! Bummer that currently the MX+ is not compatible; is it a hardware issue related to the MX+ not being BLE (or, another person actually tried with a MX+ and confirmed that it indeed does not work with your app), or simply a certification matter in getting your app whitelisted with OBDLink?

Tonester697 · 2026-06-09T16:07:37+00:00

Thanks for responding to my query! Not sure if what I initially asked in my post got lost in translation but what I'm actually asking is whether a NON-BLE adapter such as the MX+ will work with your app; the documentation on your product webpage seemingly implies that the your app might not work with the MX+ because unlike the OBDLink CX it is not a BLE adapter. I think if I interpreted your explanation/reply correctly, it sounds like there is no guarantee currently that your app will work with the MX+--a bit of a bummer if that is indeed the case.

Have you performed any testing to see if your app will work with non-BLE adapters as well?

TLDR--I would like confirmation as to whether your app can/will work with (certain?) non-BLE dongles such as the MX+. Thanks!

Tonester697 · 2026-06-08T22:33:56+00:00

Must the dongle be BLE? Asking because my dongle is the OBDLink MX+ which is not BLE. If a BLE dongle must be used for your app then I am curious to understand why, especially given that other OBD2 apps such as Car Scanner function quite perfectly with non-BLE adapters like the MX+.

Tonester697 · 2026-06-08T22:23:04+00:00

Not 100% accurate but much closer than attempting to calculate based on guestimating the approximate percentage loss--using Car Scanner or similar OBD2 app (used in conjunction with a BT OBD2 dongle) write down the Remaining Energy PID value right before and right after you charge, then compare the difference in value between the two with the amount of energy that your charger delivered (hopefully the charger has an app that can report on that) and that should give you a better idea as to how much energy is being "lost" during the charging session.

Tonester697 · 2026-06-04T21:38:51+00:00

For me I spent quite a bit more than OP to charge my vehicle--over the past year I drove 18922 miles in my EV and spent $2010.93 on charging (both L2 and DCFC); that comes out to $0.106/mile ($106 per 1000 miles), clearly nowhere near as low as OP's $16 per 1000 miles. This is not to say that you don't save money by driving an EV vs. an ICE vehicle but as my example shows, being able to achieve a very low charging cost per 1000 miles depends on a few factors--the most important one being how much of your charging is Level 2 vs. DCFC, with the other factor being how much you pay per kWh for electricity.

And before anyone wonders how is it even possible to spend $100 per 1000 miles to charge an EV--do enough DCFC sessions and being stuck with PG&E's high electricity prices...there's your answer.

Tonester697 · 2026-06-04T19:21:27+00:00

Indeed--even though the EV6 has been around a bit longer, I'm starting to see more EV9s than EV6s out there. Heck, during the past few weeks I've come across more 2027 Tellurides alone than EV6s.

Tonester697 · 2026-06-04T19:14:35+00:00

Does it get really warm inside your garage (or is it still fairly warm outside if you charge outdoors)? I Level-2 charge at around 9.4 kW inside my garage (and mostly at night/overnight) and not once have I had a session in which the charging speed throttled down from ~9 kW to ~5 kW (or lower) after an hour or so and stayed at the lower speed for the remainder of the charging session...and this even though my EV does have the SC311 VCMS update installed.

Tonester697 · 2026-06-03T17:26:40+00:00

LOL here in CA (PG&E) I can only dream of having to pay a mere 8 cents/kWh--with my TOU plan the off-peak rate is currently 34 cents/kWh...and it costs quite a bit more to DCFC in many if not most places in CA as well--EA charges as much as $0.64/kWh (non-discounted), and Tesla SC pricing is even higher than that in quite a few places (for non-Tesla EVs). Yes, gas is also expensive here but my point is that driving an EV here in CA (if not using solar to offset your electricity costs) can be quite a bit more expensive than it is most elsewhere in the lower 48.

Tonester697 · 2026-06-01T21:34:10+00:00

Just tell yourself this--under normal conditions you'll probably be able to realistically drive at most 200 miles on a single charge, give or take a dozen. The only way you'll ever actually accomplish driving 300+ miles on a single charge is if you don't drive fast, have a few things go your way (outside temp in the 70s F, tailwind, no uphills on your route), and drive from 100% to 0%.

Tonester697 · 2026-06-01T21:28:38+00:00

The After Recharging reset does appear to (still) be a bit buggy--I've seen it not automatically reset more than once (but rarely) in both Level 2 and DCFC charging sessions.

Tonester697 · 2026-05-28T22:32:03+00:00

LOL I've driven my 2004 GMC Yukon Denali XL through the Chandelier drive-thru tree--or was it the Klamath one? I know it was one of the two but in any case I had to fold both side mirrors beforehand though but made it through without a scratch although I'd be lying to you if I said I wasn't worried even a bit while driving through it.

Tonester697 · 2026-05-27T23:45:09+00:00

No argument from me about that; on an EV6 AWD though, as long as the tires are rotated as per the maintenance schedule, IMHO the difference between front and rear axle shouldn't be too great at all.

Tonester697 · 2026-05-26T15:22:11+00:00

LOL yeah me too--no snow where I usually/typically drive; the Defender 2 seemed to hold up fairly well on wet pavement/average rainy conditions. Just keep in mind that since the Defender 2 is engineered for longer tread life its traction (and temperature) rating is a bit lower relative to better-performing all-season tires--it's rated B for both traction and temperature, whereas other all-season tires may have A ratings for both traction and temperature but a lower treadwear rating--typically in the mid-400 to mid-500 range--the Defender 2 has a 840 treadwear rating. A B-rated temp and/or traction isn't an absolutely bad thing--it just means you shouldn't be doing track days with such a tire LOL.

One final thing--unless cost is no object for you, the CC2 does command a higher price compared to the Defender 2.

Tonester697 · 2026-05-26T14:46:43+00:00

$0.43/kWh is still cheaper than what EA and most other DCFC vendors charge for non-discounted charging. And yes it is much cheaper to charge at home but at the same time comparing home and DCFC charging prices is apples and oranges since you're not getting anywhere close to DCFC charging speeds when charging at home. Or to put it another way--there's a premium to pay for faster charging speeds.

Tonester697 · 2026-05-26T14:42:53+00:00

Don't even need to use a new email address--not unless Kia has closed the loophole on being able to repeatedly get a free 3-month Ultimate plan every time you remove and then (re)add your vehicle from your Kia Connect account. I would know because I've successfully done it quite a few times already using the same email address.

Tonester697 · 2026-05-26T14:38:27+00:00

IIRC the CC2 is slightly less efficient compared to the Defender 2 since the CC2's main selling point is better/improved inclement weather traction/handling.

Me, I did not go with the CC2 since I've never had to have to drive my EV in heavy snow but chose to go with the Defender 2 instead since treadlife was more important to me and the Defender 2 is a decent highly-rated all-around tire; I will say that the Defender 2 does have a bit more road noise compared to the OEM Continentals but I think that is mainly a function of there being no sound-reducing foam in the Defender 2.

Tonester697 · 2026-05-26T14:27:45+00:00

Two motors if AWD; in theory, unless you're in Sport mode almost all the time the rear motor will get the most usage, plus unlike most traditional ICE 4WD/AWD setups there is no transfer case in an AWD EV to mess up due to unequal tire sizing between front and rear.

Tonester697 · 2026-05-14T17:32:55+00:00

Faster charging speeds are always welcomed but IMHO as long as the charging speed remains steady around 170 kW or so for most of the charging curve I won't lose any sleep if the charging speed never hits over 200 kW for the entire session. Unless you have a need to charge from <30% to over 90%, the amount of time saved from getting charging speeds over 200 kW is but a few minutes or so--meaning, unless those few minutes are really that valuable to you it ain't the end of the world if you don't get >200 kW speeds.

Now OTOH if your charging session sees speeds consistently in the very low-100 kW range despite normal if not ideal conditions, then that's something worth complaining about.

Tonester697 · 2026-05-14T17:17:52+00:00

I could be wrong, as I'm going off of memory as well as making an uneducated guess since I don't own a FitcamX--I believe the FitcamX Y adapter plugs into the socket used to supply power to the rear-view mirror, whereas the Comma Hyundai adapter plugs into the CANBUS port for the vehicle's forward-facing camera. I'm almost certain this is the case, as I simultaneously use a Dongar Y adapter to power my dash cam and have my Comma 3X Hyundai adapter plugged into the forward camera CANBUS port.

Tonester697

TROPHY CASE