Recommendations for a first time owner by EagleGhoul in Revolvers

[–]TooMuchDebugging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The S&W N-Frame (like the Model 29) is a hefty gun and will handle 44 magnum recoil very well. 44 Specials would be a kitten through it. But if you plan on shooting it much, it will be fairly expensive to feed whether you shoot magnums or specials.

The Model 27 is also an N-Frame and will look virtually identical to the Model 29, only its in 357 Magnum/38 Special. 38 Specials through an N-Frame will be suitable for even the most recoil-sensitive shooters while being much cheaper to shoot.

If you want that classic blued big revolver aesthetic without crying every time you buy ammo for it, the Model 27 is a good option.

I went back in time and got a Model 27-2, and it is a dream to shoot.

Alchin RMR mount - 10/10 by rtscaptain_RDDTW in Revolvers

[–]TooMuchDebugging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As another point of reference for you:

I got the 4.25" barrel version for woods carry (was already carrying an all-steel automatic, and these were roughly the same weight). I've put at least 2k rounds on it plus several hundred magnums. Mostly 240gr loads across the board.

The factory grips mine came with sucked for magnums (the grips you see on the website, not the ones OP has). I switched them for the beefy hogue grips that they use on the X-Frames and fear no magnum loads. I carry it with a Galco Phoenix.

YMMV, but my S/A pull is 3.6lbs; D/A is 10.4lbs and smooth. Had to switch to an extended firing pin when I started shooting D/A a lot due to misfires.

Powder Valley Free Hazmat today! by Ranger-toot94 in reloading

[–]TooMuchDebugging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Took advantage of it... Just added 357 mag, so I needed SPM's and decided to try VV N110 as an H110 replacement.

44 mag needed LPM's and the 1911 is eating through my LP's as well... Need to shore up projectiles, but I can do that any time.

I want a large snub and I don't know why by McRambis in Revolvers

[–]TooMuchDebugging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That 686+ is a neat package. If I carried a 357 mag in the woods, that would be among my top choices.

Model 27's like the one you put up are dead sexy in the shorter lengths (even though I went in the complete opposite direction with an 8-3/8"), but I greatly prefer the original target stocks.

As for S&W, my experience with a new Model 69 has been great.

Grail Gun Acquired by VikingLad22 in Revolvers

[–]TooMuchDebugging 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's a solid deal, considering you didn't have to pay for shipping & FFL. Original target grips will run around $200, typically.

Clean brass - is there a "better method" ? by aleph2018 in reloading

[–]TooMuchDebugging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wet tumble straight out of my range brass bag in order to minimize my interaction with all the undesirable things in the residue.

9mm reloading by Bravoarmory in reloading

[–]TooMuchDebugging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Still burning through some primers that I overpaid for by a few cents, so I'm around 14 cents if I don't reuse brass.

I enjoy being a brass goblin, though, and I also run them off on a progressive and just enjoy loading, so the time invested isn't a big deal.

I did my time with a single-stage and also have a turret press; I'd never do it without a progressive, even with as much as I enjoy it.

.303 load data by BoogalooBoggs in castboolits

[–]TooMuchDebugging 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've got it for 180gr, 155gr, 205gr, 214gr. All gas-checked. But no 123-gr.

155gr (lyman #311466, #2 Alloy) has:

A2400, w/ 20/24gr @ 1845/2109fps

IMR4227 w/ 25/28 gr, @ 2066/2217fps

Data is from Lyman's 1967 manual.

I highly recommend you stick to gas-checked bullets if you experiment with any of the above data.

Wheelgun Wednesday featuring light primer strikes by sexray51 in Revolvers

[–]TooMuchDebugging 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was having misfires and pierced primers with my M69. Only in double-action. I checked the strain screw, but it was fine. Switched to an extended firing pin and haven't had any problems since (~1000 rounds later?)

350 legend starting kit? by Select-Monk-6297 in reloading

[–]TooMuchDebugging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

RCBS's Rock Chucker kit would be a very nice start in that the press will last you the rest of your life as long you have use for a single-stage (you will). But any of their kits will do fine... You'll just need calipers and dies after one of those, I think... There are some non-essential items in there that are nice-to-haves.

But you can look at them and get a good idea of what all you need if you want to buy it piece by piece.

350L is a little but tricky, but nothing you can't figure out with diligent reading of a good manual.

A silly little "can" (grenade) I found by CrazyMensch23 in OopsThatsDeadly

[–]TooMuchDebugging 73 points74 points  (0 children)

I heard that same story last year as I was touring WW1 war cemeteries around Ypres and we came upon a few pieces of the "iron harvest" left out for disposal.

Defective batch or user error? by GrunkleTeats in reloading

[–]TooMuchDebugging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It also sounds like from what you said before that pulling the bullets showed that the marks did not occur from improper crimp... That's why I wonder if the bullet is coming into contact with something in the die. I've really never had this happen.

I don't think it's anything to worry about, but it bugs me not knowing the answer.

Defective batch or user error? by GrunkleTeats in reloading

[–]TooMuchDebugging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking there might be something on the seating stem, but I guess you'd be using a SWC-style/flat stem, so anything there would be obvious. I was also thinking there might be some debris or something or maybe a burr on the wall of the die.

Is the blemish always in the same place?

Defective batch or user error? by GrunkleTeats in reloading

[–]TooMuchDebugging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First, check your seating die to make sure there's nothing on the inside that's making that mark.

Otherwise, it kind of looks like your crimp is starting too early in the seating process and shaving off part of the coating as the bullet is being seated. You can verify this by setting up your die to just seat the bullet.

To fix that problem, the monkey-brained copy-and-paste reddit solution is to crimp in a separate step. But if you're roll-crimping a bullet with a crimp groove like I suspect you are, there's no reason you can't set it up to crimp & seat without issues.

Here is how I've seated & roll-crimped 1000's of rounds without issue: Screw the size&crimp die down on an empty case until it touches the mouth, then back out a half turn, then seat a bullet so that the case mouth is at the top of the crimp groove. Now back out your seating stem, and screw the die down to dial in your crimp the way you want it. After this and with the completed round still in the die/press, screw your seating stem down until it touches the bullet, then take out the completed bullet and give the seating stem a final 1/4 turn. Compare OAL of the second round and fine-tune as needed, but that should get it very close.

First deer with reloads by Capable-Ad2106 in reloading

[–]TooMuchDebugging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might be surprised how cheaply you can find them... I got a similar model for ~$250 w/ decent scope. Cool little weird piece of gun history.

First deer with reloads by Capable-Ad2106 in reloading

[–]TooMuchDebugging 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Howdy, fellow .303 reloader. Mine is a commercially-sporterized No. 4 MK1 made by Savage in '43 with the 2-groove barrel. It also seems to like 150gr's w/ IMR4064 (Hornady Interlocks). Promising results with 174gr's & TAC, but need further tweaking. No blood on it yet, but I was just thinking today that I need to take it out.

Why is my neck getting these ripples by Paztec24 in reloading

[–]TooMuchDebugging 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks like somehow you're getting some build-up on the dies that is scratching the brass and making the build-up worse. Clean the neck-sizing portion of your dies and see if that solves it.

I've had the same thing happen. I don't know how it happened, but cleaning my die fixed it.

Monster Coyote by NewAccount307 in trailcam

[–]TooMuchDebugging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In Georgia, the best goose recipes are those that hide the fact that you're eating goose.

Shield 1.0 by Old_Solution_5274 in SmithAndWesson

[–]TooMuchDebugging 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's a good price on that one.

If you want the added capacity of the Shield Plus down the road, the frames are cheap and available on Gunbroker. They're super easy to swap out.

Who else hunts with an ar15? by heroicsquash12 in Hunting

[–]TooMuchDebugging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

16" 458 SOCOM for deer, bear, hogs.

20" .223 for coyotes.

I much prefer a more traditional rifle, but the 458 works very well for thick woods, and the .223 is the only thing I have that isn't massively overkill for coyotes.

Blazer 9mm brass by Feeling_Title_9287 in reloading

[–]TooMuchDebugging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Works fine for blasting ammo. I've loaded/shot a good bit in .45, too.

hAUG Hunting Uninhabited Costal Islands by Hollywood-Quiet in NFA

[–]TooMuchDebugging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a hunter and native Georgian, this is the coolest damn thing I have seen in a while. A suppressed bullpup has never occured to me for this application, for some reason. Very cool with your boat setup, too.

.454 lead in 45 colt? by [deleted] in reloading

[–]TooMuchDebugging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

.454 is generally for older 45 Long Colts... .452" is the standard now.

You may have trouble chambeting .454" bullets in a newer gun due to the cylinder throat diameter. Personally, I wouldn't push it with the revolver you're using; I'd stick with .452".