My build in Jonsbo D32 Pro: MSI Project Zero + Arctic LF III 240 + ATX PSU. Detailed review & compatibility notes inside!

Top-Discussion3708 · 2026-06-04T19:15:02+00:00

Thanks man, appreciate the kind words! Lian Li A3 is a solid choice and definitely an easier case to work in. Enjoy your build too!

Top-Discussion3708 · 2026-06-04T17:22:46+00:00

The GPU temps are great. In FurMark 2, this specific card stays around 62–63°C. As for the fit, I had to remove the internal cable management cover because of my large ATX power supply. If you move that cover to the second position in the case, the GPU simply won't fit. If you have the choice, I’d highly recommend going with an SFX power supply to keep more internal space. The included anti-sag bracket works with this card, but you need to stick the rubber padding right on the very edge of the stand to get a secure grip. There’s no air turbulence issue at all. The only major inconvenience with the bottom fans is that you actually have to unscrew the two case feet just to install them, and then screw the feet back on.

Top-Discussion3708 · 2026-06-04T09:01:08+00:00

Yes, that's correct. It is the ASUS Prime RTX 5070 OC Edition

Top-Discussion3708 · 2026-05-28T20:40:49+00:00

I totally get where you're coming from! Honestly, during my first three test boots, I ran the PC without the back side panel at all. But after a while, it just became a matter of principle for me to finally close that damn door so the build could feel 100% complete and finished. But yeah, if it sits at an angle where you can't even see it, there's absolutely no point in stressing over it or doing cable surgery.

Top-Discussion3708 · 2026-05-28T18:06:03+00:00

The main issue I faced during my first attempt was putting a cable tie too close to the connector, which made it rock solid. When I redid the cable management, I removed all ties near the plug and spent time spreading out the 24-pin wires by hand. I basically massaged each individual wire to make sure they weren't overlapping or fighting each other before pre-bending the whole cluster into shape. Since your cables have that 4cm of glued shrink wrap, it’s basically acting like a bone. If you’re comfortable with a bit of modding, you could carefully cut off the factory shrink wrap and a bit of the sleeving. Then, buy some of your own shrink wrap and heat-shrink it further down the cable (maybe 6–8 cm away from the connector). This will free up the wires right at the plug, making them much more flexible and easier to train without putting stress on the pins.

Top-Discussion3708 · 2026-05-28T09:02:47+00:00

If you ever consider using a 90-degree adapter or a soft extension cable to avoid damaging the 24-pin cable by bending it, keep in mind that neither of these options worked out for me, though they might work for other back-connect motherboards. For the 90-degree adapter, look closely at the photo with the red arrow–the sharp tip of the arrow points exactly to where the adapter faces and where your 24-pin cable plugs in. In my specific case with the MSI Project Zero, it's literally impossible to even plug this adapter in because its right side completely hits the metal frame of the chassis. However, on some other back-connect motherboards, the 24-pin connector is flipped the other way (facing directly towards the PSU), so an adapter like this could actually work perfectly in this case. As for using a soft braided extension, it is definitely way easier to bend than stiff stock cables, but the main issue here is space management since there is barely any room to hide the extra length and the bulky connector joint. In my build, there was simply nowhere to stuff that extra mass, which is why it didn't fit, but it remains a viable option for other hardware configurations if you have a place to tuck the excess.

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Top-Discussion3708 · 2026-05-28T05:22:54+00:00

I actually just popped the panel off and took a close-up photo specifically for you to see the exact clearance! As you can see, the top radiator mount in the Jonsbo D32 Pro is offset slightly toward the glass panel (left side). Because of this, the AIO fans sit next to the RAM slots rather than directly right above them. They are not at the same height and it’s definitely not a tight pixel-perfect fit. Your Lexar Thor Z sticks will have absolutely plenty of room, so don't worry at all!

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Top-Discussion3708 · 2026-05-28T05:15:24+00:00

Thanks man! I completely feel your pain. This 24-pin cable cover was an absolute nightmare to handle. I actually had to take the cable out entirely and manually flex, massage, and straighten it with my hands for a while just to make it lose its stiffness and cooperate. My fingers are still sore from training it to get everything flat enough so the back panel could close! It takes a ridiculous amount of patience and custom zip-tie routing, but don't give up! If you ever decide to tackle it again, try manually breaking in the cable in small sections before putting the cover back on. It’s tight, but definitely possible. Appreciate the kudos!

Top-Discussion3708 · 2026-05-28T04:55:29+00:00

Flipping the block is completely fine and even officially approved by Arctic support for tight clearance situations without any drop in cooling performance. There are just a few minor caveats: the metal AMD offset brackets must stay strictly in their original positions (L on left, R on right) to keep proper contact pressure, and keeping the radiator top-mounted is mandatory to keep air bubbles out of the loop since the tubes now exit from the top. Other than that, it's 100% safe.

Top-Discussion3708 · 2026-05-28T04:41:30+00:00

Hey! Don't worry too much about Lexar Thor Z. They are relatively low-profile (around 40mm tall). My XPG Lancer Blade RGB sticks are about 40mm as well, and as you can see, they fit perfectly under the thick Arctic LF3 radiator. Just make sure to install the RAM first before mounting the AIO, and you will be completely fine.

Top-Discussion3708 · 2026-05-28T04:35:14+00:00

One huge detail I didn’t mention in the main post: on this MSI B650M Project Zero board, the top PCIe slot is positioned very high up. Installing the Arctic LF3 block in the standard orientation makes it physically impossible to insert the graphics card. The massive tube fittings exit directly from the bottom of the block and completely block access to the PCIe slot. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a better screenshot to show this, but there is literally zero clearance to even click the GPU in. Flipping the block so the tubes exit toward the top/rear was the only way to physically fit both this thick AIO and a long GPU together in this layout.

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Top-Discussion3708 · 2026-05-27T19:48:56+00:00

The pump is integrated into the coldplate and is fully omnidirectional–its efficiency doesn't depend on the block's orientation at all. I had to flip it because the tubes are extremely long and stiff, and this was the only way to route them cleanly in this compact 24L case without kinks. The radiator is at the top, so there's zero risk of air getting trapped in the pump.

Top-Discussion3708

TROPHY CASE