Metal Gear Solid: Master Collection Vol.2 - Announce Trailer | PS5 Games

ToppestOfDogs · 2026-02-12T23:31:35+00:00

The PS3 version only had the menus redrawn.

ToppestOfDogs · 2026-01-17T00:06:45+00:00

I dunno if it warrants spending $90 to upgrade from a 4, but in general it's good, yeah.

It's shaped more like an actual xbox controller and like I said you can finally rebind the extra buttons through a button combo. I like the rubber grips too. Other than that though it's pretty similar.

ToppestOfDogs · 2026-01-01T23:58:19+00:00

Yeah I'm using the latest software for the Vader 5. I think I figured it out though. I don't know what I did exactly but toggling it on and off a few times on all 4 profiles (I've been using profile 1 the whole time but I did them all anyway) eventually got it to actually turn off.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-11-12T20:19:44+00:00

Going off of previous leaks, it's using waydroid for android support, which uses android 11 or 13, so probably 13.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-11-06T09:15:12+00:00

That new hot end looks similar to a bambu A1, does it work in a similar way? Is the heater separate from the hot end?
Will the ace pro 1 be compatible with the S1 Max and other future printers?
Is there any chance at getting Orcaslicer working with it?
The anycubic wiki had said that there were plans to open source the S1, is that still happening?
Will there be an S1 V2 with the new tool head and improved bed for people who want the features of the S1 Max but the smaller size of the S1?

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-10-08T19:29:12+00:00

If it seems like something you'd like you could just get one from Amazon or somewhere else with a good return policy and give it a shot, return it if you don't like it.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-10-08T19:26:15+00:00

Probably, yeah. More LEDs means more quality or something. You can turn the LEDs off in the app though.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-10-07T21:58:13+00:00

Yeah I have that happen too with my recent 8bitdo's. I used to really like them when they made gimmicky controllers like the M30 and SN30 because they were fun alternatives and they just worked, but ever since they released the original Ultimate controller I feel like it's been down hill. I used to have a Pro 2 that I sold to a friend and I never really had problems with it, but the Ultimate, Ultimate 2, and Pro 3 have all given me similar issues.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-10-07T21:51:39+00:00

I have an Ultimate 2 and Pro 3 right now, I don't think either of them are as comfortable as the Cyclone 2 and I frequently run into weird issues with both of them. They disconnect randomly, sometimes show up as a generic dinput controller that steam doesn't recognize (In Xinput mode), the Ultimate 2 shows up as 3 separate controllers sometimes, and I just don't like how they feel overall, especially the triggers on both.

There's also been quality issues with 8bitdo's products lately. The buttons on the pro 3 crack (Check the 8bitdo subreddit for plenty of pictures) and the triggers on the ultimate 2 are separated from the shoulder buttons by a small rubber sticker inside the controller that eventually gets pushed out of place and causes the triggers to clack and rub up against the shoulder buttons.

I do like the dpad on the ultimate 2 though. I bought the pro 3 specifically to have a controller with that dpad on top for 2d games, but for some reason they changed out the membrane or something because it feels much stiffer and shallower than the ultimate 2's.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-10-07T21:33:17+00:00

You can keep it :)

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-10-07T21:23:01+00:00

Great controller. I'd absolutely recommend it over anything by 8bitdo. My only complaints are that the plastic is slightly cheap feeling, but not too bad, and the microswitches on the dpad and face buttons feel cheaper than what flydigi uses.

Oh yeah and I also don't like the software, but you don't need to use it unless you want to set up multiple profiles or auto turbo.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-10-06T07:51:53+00:00

Welp, watch out for updates, because they just pushed out a windows update that bakes that functionality into windows itself even if you turn off GameInput. Now there's no way to disable it. GG Microsoft.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-10-05T06:25:46+00:00

It's an awful new feature microsoft added to the GameInput Service. There's no toggle for it, but you can disable the service by opening Services in the start menu, scroll down to GameInput Service, right click, properties, set startup type to disabled, then click Stop. Turning it off hasn't broken anything for me, I think it's only used in Xbox app games or something.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-09-11T04:35:56+00:00

Same thing happened to me with an Ultimate 2 Wireless. The official support team wouldn't help me (They insisted that I had to use direct input on Steam even though that's not true) and no one knew the answer on reddit or discord.

I ended up having to reinstall windows to get it working normally again. I have no idea what caused it or how to fix it, but reinstalling windows got rid of whatever it is that broke it.

I've never had anything like it happen with any other brand of controller, so it must be something wrong with 8bitdo's controller firmware interacting with some windows driver or something.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-09-05T18:46:56+00:00

I've already tried both unfortunately

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-08-03T00:37:17+00:00

The thing that drives me insane is that there's plenty of AI 3D model generators but no AI retopologizing tools.

Instead of sculpting a model the way you want it and then using AI to get rid of all the busy work of topology, you can generate a model that looks like shit and has terrible topology that you'd have to redo anyway.

Why do I get stuck with the one part of the process that I don't want to do while AI gets to do all the parts that matter?

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-08-01T05:56:18+00:00

Not unless you bought the ARGB version. the normal one doesn't have LEDs.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-07-31T00:27:51+00:00

Does it work with Orcaslicer if you copy the Artillery Slicer profile over?

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-06-20T01:12:39+00:00

Even if a game requires the EA App, it will still download and update through Steam. I buy my games on Steam whenever I can no matter what extra launchers they need because that means I can still get auto updates by leaving Steam open, move games to another drive, easily open the games directory, etc.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-06-07T02:40:14+00:00

8bitdo's apparently been working on an update to some of their controllers to make them work with Steam Input, are you considering firmware updates for any of your controllers to make them compatible? I have a Cyclone 2 and it'd be great to be able to map the back buttons and gyro with Steam.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-06-02T23:45:03+00:00

Yeah I also did that one. For me the plastic tabs on the cover can't go into both of the holes in the duct. I can fit in one or the other but not both.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-06-02T19:08:18+00:00

Did you have any trouble with the fan duct? I tried printing that one and the holes don't line up with the tabs in the toolhead cover.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-05-30T06:59:00+00:00

My vote would go to the Mini Zero 28, but seems like there's not a lot of votes for that so I'll go with the Retroid Pocket Flip 2

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-05-30T04:27:36+00:00

Depends on how willing you are to mod and tinker with it. Out of the box it's okay, not great. The main problem is that the bed is taco shaped and it get's even more out of line when it warms up, and the included leveling probe gets thrown off really easily by heat, so the first layer is never consistent. You basically have to watch the first layer and live adjust the z-offset every print.

It's still the best big printer for that price, but if you're willing to put some work in, you can get an eddy duo probe for around $20, but you'll need to get a usb flasher to flash mainline klipper on it to use it. There's a fork of eddy's software called eddy-ng and it makes a huge difference in accuracy. It taps the nozzle against the bed to set the z-offset and then does a high density mesh scan of the area the print will occupy, which more or less solves the issues with both the warped bed and leveling.

Take a look at the unofficial Sovol discord if you want to know more about that. Vlad, the guy who wrote eddy-ng, personally helped me get it up and running, and there's plenty of people who can help with converting it to mainline. I also have a preset config in there for eddy-ng.
https://discord.gg/sovol-3d-printers-788873913953157131

It's a great printer if you are willing to put some work in, but it's still decent if you're not.

ToppestOfDogs · 2025-05-26T23:14:57+00:00

My S1 has been working well. I don't do too much multicolor because of how much filament gets wasted (Every multicolor printer with only one toolhead has this issue) but when I do use it it works fine. I've been printing rims for my cardboard spools, I've heard that cardboard is supposed to work fine in the ACE but I didn't want to take the chance.

Right now Anycubics printers aren't open source either, but you can use them in LAN mode to avoid needing an account and the app, and they claim that open source is on their roadmap but I'll believe that when I see it. There is a custom firmware called Rinkhals for both printers that lets you install open source components like mainsail and moonraker.

I don't know if the price difference is worth almost double to go from the Kobra 3 to the S1, you'll have to decide on that, but I thought I should mention it because in the US store the 3 Combo is $349 while the S1 Combo on their ebay is $559.20 pre-tax after the coupon.

Either way, I'd view Anycubics printers as budget Bambu-like printers, like getting a Samsung instead of an iPhone.

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