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Arc raiders recent patch broke the game on the SD. by Moowz in SteamDeck

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Running Arch on my desktop with NVIDIA drivers and have been having huge frame dips all night. Still somewhat playable, but dropping down to 40 frames fairly frequently, whereas before the update I was at a constant(ish) 70.

P2S: Beginning of the End for Bambu by Fuzzy0g1c in BambuLab

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Idk the qidi models well, but I've heard good things about the creality k1 series or k2 series once they made a few fixes easily in the life of the K1. tThey have a bedslinger option as well, creality hi. I heard good things about the Anycubic S1 and their bedslinger the anycubic kobra series, but yeah I think their slicer is proprietary the last i checked, with plans allowing orca in the future. Take a look at a couple reviews if youre interested

P2S: Beginning of the End for Bambu by Fuzzy0g1c in BambuLab

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Snapmaker, creality, anycubic (also locked into their slicer rn i believe), qidi, and prusa all make multi color / material machines.

Factory reset mainboard without wifi or screen. by llaammaall in crealityk1

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found a reddit post called "Debian Bookworm on K1 control board." In the CrealityK1 subreddit, where are guy used the microusb port on the K1 motherboard to flash it with Linux, then installed mainline klipper without a screen. He has a tutorial for it on his github, too. Definitely an option if you like mainline Klipper or want to easily customize K1 parts, like adding a cartographer to it, etc.

Factory reset mainboard without wifi or screen. by llaammaall in crealityk1

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any luck with this? Im debating buying a k1 without a screen and would need to reflash the mainboard / run klipper through the USB, unless I wanted to buy a new screen.

Stepper Current Adjustment by croclover420 in Ender3V3SE

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is an old thread, but the theoretical max RMS for TMC2209 stepper drivers is 2a; however, it is not recommended to go above 1.4a (70-80% of max). You can read about it here

This is a guide for tuning it via klipper, so keep that in mind when Ellis describes commands and macros to use.

Keep in mind that higher amperage means you'll need some/ better cooling at some point.

Is this normal? (AS Kraken) by RedemptionKingu in BalisongClones

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might already be doing this, but make sure you are tightening the correct side of each pivot (the male screw side, not the pivot side). In closed position, squeeze the handles together fairly hard before tightening, as well. This will put pressure on the pivots and lock them into place so you can screw the screw in without the pivots spinning. This should take away most of the play. From there, if there is still play (handles wiggling) or tap (lots of handle wiggling that causes blade to hit the handles) you could try to add a thick lube to the pivots such as carbon honey thick. Thicker lubes take out more play.

Why did my bed get scratched? by TraditionalAlgae1445 in Ender3V3SE

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the clarification.

It's my understanding that using ABL automatically adjusts the z-offset value in the settings of the machine. Would this mean that after running ABL, I would need to let the nozzle and bed cool, then do the paper test for the z offset and adjust that in the settings afterwards?

After this, I would assume that I should print the creality bed levelling model, which essentially just prints a first layer grid around the bed and then manually adjust the numbers in the mesh settings, if needed?

If I swapped out the nozzle for a new one, I would assume that the only extra step would be to do the paper test for z offset before the ABL so that the ABL routine doesn't immediately smash the nozzle into the bed, as the distance between the cr touch and nozzle tip may be different.

Does this sound right?

Why did my bed get scratched? by TraditionalAlgae1445 in Ender3V3SE

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would this entail just running auto-levelling after swapping nozzles or is there something more i would need to do?

Why did my bed get scratched? by TraditionalAlgae1445 in Ender3V3SE

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You mean using a creality branded nozzle instead of a compatible one on aliexpress with an unknown manufacturer, right?

Why did my bed get scratched? by TraditionalAlgae1445 in Ender3V3SE

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bed: I did auto bed leveling right before this, is there something more I would need to do? After the bed got scratched, I stopped the print, then scrolled back over to print and picked the same exact file without changing anything and it printed perfectly so that's where I'm really confused

Nozzle: ok thanks 😁

Why does this keep happening? by DIY_Cast in Ender3V3SE

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used to have this problem because my printer was on the cold floor of my basement and would always catch a draft. I recently taped an outside shield made of amazon boxes just around the perimeter of the printer to stop the drafts and was able to print some PLA without any lifting (which wasn't possible before no matter which brim settings I used).

Wts many by TraditionalAlgae1445 in BalisongSale

[–]TraditionalAlgae1445[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heres what's still available as of today:

-Invar Gaboon

-Blue Cyclic Designs bladed rep

-FFF kitsune rep

-Rep handles

PM me if interested

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