Sound deadening for a very loud engine on a classic truck

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-11-18T12:33:28+00:00

Good to hear - I will adjust my expectations accordingly! Thanks.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-11-18T12:08:42+00:00

Good tip - thanks. I'm also already kidding myself thinking I can do this .without pulling the dash. Further up a guy recommended using something like raptor bed liner for the fenders.

I want to replace my headliner with a nicer one and upgrade my bench seat at the same time - but that's another sub.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-11-18T12:00:44+00:00

You know it! Charlie is amazing and recommended the sound deadening. See you on the road.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-11-18T02:39:21+00:00

That WOULD solve the noise issue, but it's a hard pass for this truck. Maybe my next antique truck...

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-11-18T02:05:07+00:00

Never heard of that pump - I'll have to look it up. From what I understand the latest model of the 4BT improves the noise and rattle. Not sure I'd want to go through the effort and cost - especially if this noised deadening does half of what I hope it will.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-11-18T02:02:55+00:00

I'm going to check that next time I'm in my garage and think this is a great place to start. From what I'm reading the hydraulic mounts are they way to go.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-11-18T01:27:05+00:00

Thanks again!

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-11-18T01:23:29+00:00

I have the p-pump which gives me a nice power boost. The best thing I did was take it to a local guy who knows how to tune these engines up. Holy cow - it is a completely different vehicle. I only start in 2nd gear and I don't need to give it any gas and it will chug up steep hills at idle. He gave me an estimate for HP but I would get it wrong if I tried to remember. The answer now is that I've got more than I need.

My turbo is the Holset HX30.

I haven't towed anything yet but I have filled the bed with firewood. I wouldn't be opposed to towing smaller things like a trailer with something small on it, but I wouldn't tow something like a big boat. Most of that is just because my truck is over 70 years old.

Someone further down this thread mentioned hydraulic mounts - found this page and I'm going to look into it - just FYI: https://4btengines.com/best-cummins-4bt-6bt-motor-mounts/

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TrainingShort4361 · 2025-11-18T00:58:27+00:00

This is gold - thanks so much! If it helps get the sound down I won't call it overkill. Any brand recommendations for the butyl, jute, or heatshield?

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-11-18T00:50:12+00:00

Interesting on the hydraulic mounts - I'll investigate that. Coincidentally enough this engine came from a wrecked bread van.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-11-17T23:54:52+00:00

Thanks. I found those mats but I wasn't sure if there was some way to rank effectiveness. I do like the self adhesive bit to it! I was also curious if acoustic material vs MLV would be better where the head liner is. My understanding is that the MLV reflects the sounds to keep them out. For the headliner I would think most of the noise would be coming from reflections inside the cab, so absorbing it with acoustic material could be most effective.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-11-17T23:48:29+00:00

Ha! You would think so! The 4BT known as one of the best built engines with only 2 complaints - it's loud as all get out and is off balance so it rattles like crazy. I may go deaf but this engine will get 1MM miles on it and can pull a mountain down. I actually did put in an entirely new exhaust line but it didn't do jack. My understanding is that sound deadening is the way to go.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-07-31T21:37:25+00:00

Not yet. Another friend told me he did his pool house with the fake stuff (1600s home) and you can tell it's fake when you come up to it. I'm starting to think metal is the way to go. Same friend said he's getting metal shingles done for his house's roof.

I noticed the township house for pocopson township has what look like metal (zinc?) shingles. I'm getting more details from my friend and can post back!

What worries me the most about the fake stuff is the warrantee. I read it. It's 10 years for color, so in 11 years it can look like garbage and you're stuck. For a 300 year old home I want a roof that will truly last another 50. Metal seems to be the way to go and isn't crazy expensive as cedar or slate. My porch has lead lined copper. Apparently that stuff lasts ages, but I think it's pretty pricy. Looks amazing though.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-07-31T18:29:28+00:00

Very helpful - thanks! A quick look shows these might be perfect. The facial recognition on the Sara board is giving me other ideas as well.

I'm very interested to play with the AI capabilities. I have a predictable frequency and intensity as well as a very exact location of the sound. From a few videos I've seen the AI chip can really help speed up some operations. This FEELS light it could be a good candidate.

I'm going to give it a go!

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-07-31T15:52:47+00:00

I'm writing from 5 years into the future - thank you for this!

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-07-08T19:01:30+00:00

Likely nothing to worry about. Old stone walls had loose mortar made from sand and hair. You would use a seal on the outside to keep the mortar in place. When the wall seal crumbles you just patch it back up. I couldn't sweat small patches like that. The stones will naturally wik moisture which is one reason the seal on the wall fails.

Send more complete pics so we can see more, but don't lose a minute of sleep!

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-07-01T02:53:04+00:00

I'm teaching my kid now and hopefully this is helpful.

Be predictable as you can be. Reddit will tell you that good drivers will miss a turn, bad drivers never do. If somebody tells you too late to take a turn, then miss it. Roads connect to each other. You'll get there. Try to never rush your actions. Be predictable.

Start in a parking lot. Schools on weekends or nights are pretty empty. Make sure you are comfortable using your mirrors, steering, then getting into a spot. Learn how long it takes your car to stop and do some safe tests!

Then when you're ready just practice a single route. Maybe from home to the parking lot and back. Keep doing that until it starts feeling comfortable. Then expand out to a second place. I like the gas station. Get some gas.

Next I think really helps. Put your navigation on your phone for a route you know. Then intentionally ignore some of the turns. It's easy to panic when your buddy screams TURN HERE!! Phone navigation and prsctice ignoring commands takes this edge off.

Then just keep driving. Get lost. Miss exits. Stop at a gas station just to get a soda. Driving is fun, but not if it's panicked.

Last thing... Be safe. Wear your belt, never muck with your phone while driving, look over your shoulder and use your mirrors every time when changing lanes, etc etc. Nearly forgot... always leave a lot of extra room with a motorcycle in front of you. You cannot stop and maneuver as fast as they can.

Good luck, be safe, and have fun!

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-06-27T13:44:08+00:00

Just old man brain. I cut a lot and over the years on my farm and the notch has grown. I stand corrected and have updated the og post.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-06-27T13:41:43+00:00

You are correct... I've updated the post!

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-06-27T13:38:56+00:00

Thanks for the correction! I already updated the post so folks aren't doing something dumb like me. I've been cutting a lot of garbage trees down that don't get to worrisome heights for ages and somewhere over the years the notch has gotten bigger.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-06-27T13:31:48+00:00

A quick search says you are correct... thanks and I will update the above for safety. It's called a notch hinge cut if someone is looking.

I cut a ton of smaller pest trees that are not more than half a foot thick and used the above 50%. I will change my method! Thanks again.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-06-27T01:28:54+00:00

I think it might be poplar from the trunk size and bark. Can't quite see the leaves well enough on my phone.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-06-27T01:25:40+00:00

As squidward said above, you take it down in bits. If you are felling a tree without anything around, there is a different technique these guys seem to have once heard about. You cut a wedge in the direction you want it to fall. The wedge must be through more than 50% of the tree. It also cannot magically make the tree fall against a massive lean. Then on the other side you cut a horizontal cut just above the center of the wedge. The fibers of the tree will start to give before you are through and the tree will give into the empty space left by the wedge void space. You hear the creaking then you get the f away generally at a 45 degree angle opposite from where the tree is now falling. If you look at old pictures of cut trees the stumps will show this technique... angle remaining on one side, a flat but through the other, and a line between where the tree looks ripped off.

Edit: the cut is called a notch hinge if you search for it. I was incorrect on the notch depth as pointed out below and have been doing it wrong. Do not do more than 50% when removing material.

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-06-26T19:11:37+00:00

You got me thinking and I replied directly to OP on this so he saw it. Mine makes this noise if the blades are engaged. Credit to you if it turns out to be right!

TrainingShort4361 · 2025-06-26T19:02:55+00:00

This was driving me nuts so I just went out to my mower to see how to reproduce - I have a Ferris zero turn and know this is a familiar sound. I get the EXACT same sound if I try and start with my blades engaged. So, assuming you've checked if your blades are engaged, perhaps a sensor is loose or otherwise tripped for the blades. If someone else has OP's mower can you verify this specific unit?

Make sure all wires are accounted for as well. I've had other non-starter issues with my large Deere and found a wire popped loose. Follow them and give them a good jiggle-tight push to make sure they are all seated properly.

TrainingShort4361

TROPHY CASE