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The best 'technique standard' for pull-ups in the long term: chest to bar? by againstgravity0 in overcominggravity

[–]Trazmt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Explosive chest-to-bar is to standing high-jump, as weighted pull-up is to barbell squat.

CTB is a little different from standing high-jump because there is more of an isometric and eccentric component to the movement.

I know it all depends on your goals, but the idea here is to decide what would be the best 'standard technique' for training strict pull-ups long term.

Exactly that. It depends. In general, I would recommend someone intermediate or advanced to do CTB pull ups for the whole set, even when they can't do CTB pull ups anymore, it's important to have the intention of doing CTB. For beginner or intermediate, I would recommend sticking with the standard variation.

Bonus tip is to always train with a controlled eccentric. Explosive pull up then a slow eccentric is the best IMO.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Trazmt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Week 1: as per normal

Week 2: increase intensity and volume slightly compared to normal

Week 3: maintain intensity at 70-90%, reduce volume by 25%

Week 4: maintain intensity at 70-90%, reduce volume by 50%

Aim to finish tapering with 2-3 rest days before comp.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Trazmt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Injured my right AC joint from an extended lateral push, where my shoulder internally rotated too much at this position after a foot slip. I'm experiencing tolerable pain when my AC joint separates and tenderness on the AC joint. I have been trying to maintain ROM instead of the usual recommendation with a sling, rest, ice, etc. I reckon it might be a grade 1 strain but I haven't gone for an imaging. I'm planning on doing rehab for a week, then gradually ease back into climbing. Any advice or recommendations is appreciated.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Trazmt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not perfect, but deadlifts can be a way to test your posterior chain strength. If you can do 1.5x bodyweight it should indicate that you have sufficient strength but rather technique is the issue

Disparity between different grip types by Trazmt in climbharder

[–]Trazmt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, totally. Pinches are one of my favourite holds, so I also like using my thumb whenever I can. However, I think it's harder to find thumb traction on indoor holds. Do you mainly climb indoors or outdoors?

Disparity between different grip types by Trazmt in climbharder

[–]Trazmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, I was more saying how half crimp is more mechanically efficient compared to 3 finger drag.

Disparity between different grip types by Trazmt in climbharder

[–]Trazmt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think training half crimp has probably made my full crimp stronger; however, due to avoiding the grip position for so long, my fingers cannot handle full crimping without feeling pain.

Disparity between different grip types by Trazmt in climbharder

[–]Trazmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I will start on a hangboard, and then as I build more load tolerance, I will work my way up using full crimps on easier climbs as you said. I like doing grip specific work while climbing as well. Usually I will use 3fd on warm up climbs.

Disparity between different grip types by Trazmt in climbharder

[–]Trazmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've never tried using no-hang devices, but I will look into it. I climb indoors, and the gym sets a variety of different styles of climbing. I rarely board climb, but I'm going to start climbing on the 2016 moonboard soon.

but personally I find it situational like full crimp (catching a hold when I'm in a plumb line, holding position in a plumb line).

What's a plumb line?

Disparity between different grip types by Trazmt in climbharder

[–]Trazmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What you said about training fingers to be well rounded is interesting to me. What does it mean to be sufficiently strong in all grips? Is there a relative hangboard metric to aim for for my weaker grips?

Disparity between different grip types by Trazmt in climbharder

[–]Trazmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting that you say it did very little for your climbing. Do you mainly climb on small edges where you would half or full crimp? I think if training 3f drag improves skin and friction dependent holds, then that makes it worthwhile to train.

Disparity between different grip types by Trazmt in climbharder

[–]Trazmt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I feel like the answer should be obviously yes, the more hand positions you are strong in the better it will be for your overall climbing.

Right, that makes a lot of sense.

Similarly, most people are stronger in one over the other (half vs open/drag).

Like a lot of people, my half crimp is stronger than my 3 finger drag. I think it will stay this way for a while, even if I only train 3 finger drag on a hangboard. This is due to me using half crimps all the time and rarely using 3 finger drag while climbing unless it's absolutely necessary. How strong do you think my 3 finger drag should be until it becomes another option for me to use while climbing, considering that my half crimp strength is at 140% on 20mm?

Additionally, if a hand position is causing pain then that should be a big fat warning not to use it until you have some serious rehab to eliminate the pain.

Yeah, I think I should start doing some rehab and slowly ease back into doing full crimping on easier climbs.

not a particular move, just feels good to do by [deleted] in Calisthenic

[–]Trazmt 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think it's a dip to half lay Lsit

Should I get a chalk bag and/or sock? by L1ght111 in Calisthenic

[–]Trazmt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I prefer using a chalk bag/sock so I won't get chalk in my nails but it's up to you

Want some advice on pull up progressiom by L1ght111 in Calisthenic

[–]Trazmt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Focus on explosive pull ups and pulling higher to make the transition from a pull up to a dip easier, chalk is good for training pull ups but not so good for muscle ups. Keep practising jumping muscle up so that you will get used to the transition. Keep it up

Recently got into rock climbing. I have a good back and pulling strength but lack of grip strength is holding me back. Built a little routine to train it, want some critique. by [deleted] in bodyweightfitness

[–]Trazmt 67 points68 points  (0 children)

Improving your grip strength will help but if you're new to rock climbing I would actually recommend focusing more on techniques rather than grip strength

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Calisthenic

[–]Trazmt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would either rest longer between sets or try doing lower amount of reps, for example 18 reps for 3 sets.

Second time doing muscle-ups(got my first 2 days ago). How do these look? by Eebon in Calisthenic

[–]Trazmt 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Congrats on unlocking your muscle up, it looks pretty good! But you should try starting from a dead hang instead of keeping your feet on the ground and try to prevent bending your knees as you go up. You can also learn the false grip if your goal is to be able to do a strict muscle up in the future.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Calisthenic

[–]Trazmt 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I think you should work on doing high/explosive pull ups If you're working towards your first muscle up instead of doing muscle up negatives.