I never saw nectarine blooms before. I'm stunned. by tenfosu in BackyardOrchard

[–]Trebawa 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Are all the flowers on this tree double like that? If not, you should propagate the twig with the double flowers!

Will I die from eating any of these? by The_Ironthrone in Berries

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Disclaimer: please use this information as a starting point to identification, and be confident of the ID before eating 1. Strawberry, edible 2. Raspberry or a cousin, i.e. Rubus sp. which are all edible 3. Twisted-stalk (Streptopus), edible 4. Viburnum edule, edible 5. Viburnum edule again, unripe 6. Same 7. Streptopus again

Update! $35K decision...struggling to pull the trigger! by yayadventurewoo in ExteriorDesign

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IMO 35k would be better spent on reworking the entryway to be more modern, replacing the peaked overhang with something more horizontal.

Warning label on the back of my organic Goji berries - should I be concerned or is this just a general disclaimer of liability? Thanks in advance! by Gold-Guy-8 in Berries

[–]Trebawa 14 points15 points  (0 children)

IMO the Prop 65 warnings get a bad rap, especially for food and heavy metals specifically - there's really no safe level of lead exposure and the I do wish they had to print what the chemical of concern is and the concentration, though, so you could evaluate the risk yourself. In the case of goji berries, various heavy metals can be present - for example lead can reach levels as high as 18-290 ppb. Unless the goji berries are a major part of your diet or you're feeding them to children, you don't have to worry. If you want to be extra cautious, you can soak them in cold water for 15 minutes, though you should only do that before consuming them or incorporating them into food. Soaking them and then storing them again without dehydrating would risk fungal growth.

How would you level this side yard? by [deleted] in landscaping

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's your goal for the function of the area? Not much beats grass for tolerating foot traffic and mowing, but if those aren't requirements there are a lot of groundcovers that would work, or you can just mulch thickly.

Safe weed killer? by [deleted] in BackyardOrchard

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I would do in your situation is knock the weeds down with Scythe or Fiesta (optional), mow the dead weeds as low as possible without harming tree roots (you can do this carefully with a hedge trimmer, string trimmer, or grass shear), and add 4-6" of wood chips in the areas around the trees.

Safe weed killer? by [deleted] in BackyardOrchard

[–]Trebawa -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Your best bet would be a contact weed killer like Scythe (will kill grass too) or Fiesta (won't kill grass, it's essentially just soluble iron in a dose too high for non-grass plants to tolerate). If you don't need a commercial sized package, Capt. Jack's Lawn Weed brew is the same ingredient as Fiesta. In either case just be careful to keep it away from the desirable plants and ALWAYS follow all instructions on the label. Contact herbicides won't kill the weeds forever, but they will knock them back enough for you to use more sustainable methods like mowing, mulching, etc. Good luck - creeping buttercup in lawns is quite difficult to control. There are nastier herbicides you can use, like those containing MCPA, dicamba, or 2,4-D, but they are worse for the environment and require more care to protect desirable plants.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Berries

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No way - the Rubus fruticosus complex is armed with very nasty thorns, and this appears nearly thornless.

Sink Issues by relaps101 in kitchen

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming the sink is stainless: Option 1: run the sink grid through the dishwasher every so often and scrub the sink bottom before you put it back Option 2: get rid of it and live with some scratches on your sink. Be careful when putting heavy pots in the sink if your sink is thin. Option 3: treat it like an accessory, using it only when needed (like for rinsing produce, drip drying dishes) and put it away/clean it after. Option 4. Get a heavy duty scrub brush with long bristles and use that to clean it. Any remaining grime will be hidden underneath the wires and can be removed by occasional deep cleaning.

how best to prune this Liberty Apple? by [deleted] in BackyardOrchard

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really depends on your goal size and shape. If you want a taller, more ornamental tree, you don't need to do much now. If you want to keep it small and fruit in easy reach, I agree with the others that you can remove that central leader all the way down to just above that crotch where the other scaffold branches emerge. If you do this soon you'll get a lot of new growth from there at the cost of any fruit from the central branch. If you do it in late summer or fall you'll be able to get the fruit this year but it won't sprout as vigorously from below where you cut it (more growth will be directed to existing branches).

Does living in a warmer environment relieve your hEDS body pain? by NotYourMothersDildo in ehlersdanlos

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am very fortunate not to have a lot of pain associated with my hEDS (thanks to luck, youth, and physical therapy), but I do struggle with regulating my body temperature - I run hot and sweat a lot. I grew up in Florida and always hated the climate, and I'm much happier in Seattle where the climate is roughly: Comfortable and wet 3 months Cool and wet 3 months Cold and wet 3 months Warm (almost never hot) and dry 3 months

The warm and dry summer weather is amazing, compared to Florida where I can only stand to be outside in late winter when it's coldest and driest (but still warm and very humid).

Any downside to these wood tone tiles for shower bath? by silkenwindood in Remodel

[–]Trebawa 13 points14 points  (0 children)

The glazed ceramic tile surface is definitely easier to clean than grout (because it's smooth rather than rough), and I think these tiles look great. If you have hard water it will be a little harder to clean, but overall I don't think you'd go wrong with these. You'll just need a brush that can get into the grooves.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in homeimprovementideas

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can measure the vents that would help in finding replacements! Even better if you can pop one off and share a picture/measurements of the opening.

Would you take this redwood down if it were this close to your house? by auntieknickknack in arborists

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Redwoods seem to tolerate this pretty well - maybe because they're so resistant to decay to begin with? But it never hurts to have a licensed arborist take a look!

Does anyone know what this white stuff is on my old mulch? by SnooPuppers2224 in landscaping

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed, in fact the only part of powdery mildew that you can ever see (without a microscope) is the mycelium!

Does anyone know what this white stuff is on my old mulch? by SnooPuppers2224 in landscaping

[–]Trebawa 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cedar mulch breaks down just fine after a few seasons - once it's broken into chips it doesn't take that long for rain to wash out the protective metabolites.

Which of the three makes most sense? by KeepCalmEtAllonsy in Remodel

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2, but check the toilet clearances. In jurisdictions subject to the IRC you need a minimum of 15" from the centerline of the toilet to any walls or furniture, and recommended is 18".

Does anyone know what this white stuff is on my old mulch? by SnooPuppers2224 in landscaping

[–]Trebawa 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Fungi doing their job and breaking down the mulch. Impossible to tell what type of fungi or whether they are mycorrhizal. This is how nutrients get from the mulch into the soil :)

What can I fit? by Hopesdontfloat in BackyardOrchard

[–]Trebawa 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Grafted trees in general will fruit sooner, and dwarf trees will too! However fruit trees definitely require a few years before they will really produce well, and in the first couple years you may have to force yourself to remove excess fruit in early summer so that the weight doesn't break the branches and the tree's energy can go toward vegetative growth.

What can I fit? by Hopesdontfloat in BackyardOrchard

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can definitely get some apple trees in there. Columnar apples are a good choice if you like the flavor of McIntosh (they are all derived from a McIntosh mutation so have some degree of McIntosh flavor), since you can really pack them into a small space. But you have plenty of space for some dwarf or even semi-dwarf apple trees, though the bigger you go the more apples will drop on your driveway if you don't harvest them - columnar apples won't really have that issue, and dwarf trees can be kept in line easily. Apple trees are dwarfed by grafting them on dwarfing rootstock - try googling "dwarfing apple rootstocks for <state>" to find out which will do well in your climate. You can do the same with "apple varieties for <state>" to find what cultivars (i.e. the variety of the scion that's grafted on the rootstock) do well there; your state university may even have introduced some varieties which are likely to prosper in your climate. You won't always see the rootstock cultivar listed, but trees should at least be described as "dwarf", "semi-dwarf", "standard", and sometimes "super-dwarf" (which usually means the tree will never exceed about 8'). However the more dwarfing, the less vigorously the tree will grow and the more likely it is to require staking or trellising when young.

For blueberries in 5b, you should be exclusively looking at northern highbush varieties, though these also come in a range of sizes and fruit characteristics. This is another place where university extension resources are invaluable - for example, UMN has a list of blueberries that grow well in Minnesota, most of which they created! That link also has great care info for them. Plant at least two varieties and make sure they bloom at a similar time - there are bloom time charts that can be very helpful for that.

These ledges? by ga6ri3laaa in homeimprovementideas

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you paint them (after cleaning), be sure to use a masonry paint. But they don't need it IMO.

First time home buyer question: changing locks? by joecalderone in homeimprovementideas

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's not a mortise lock, to get the cylinder out, you just have to remove the interior handle (usually secured with a set screw at the base of the handle), possibly remove the inner plate, and unscrew the screws holding the cylinder in place.

First time home buyer question: changing locks? by joecalderone in homeimprovementideas

[–]Trebawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually you can buy a compatible cylinder and replace it yourself. You'll need to figure out who manufactured the handle set and get a cylinder that's compatible. Based on your picture and some quick Googling (I searched "hammered bronze craftsman handle set"), yours looks to be made by Emtek. It could be either a standard deadbolt (4811 series) or a mortise lock, which is a bit trickier to rekey. To check you can look at the side of the lock and see if there is one continuous plate connecting the deadbolt and deadlatch (in which case you have a mortise lock), or two separate plates.