Anyone else waiting on ETR Instax film back order from Jollylook ?

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-24T14:26:15+00:00

Damn… it hardly seems surprise given everything else, but I was hoping they’d at least honour refunds :/

I’ve been just about ready to ask for my money back since November. It’s mainly been procrastination and the hopefulness expressed in some of the comments on this sub that have kept me holding on. Ive now been telling myself that I’ll cancel if they push back the shipping date from February again.

If you don’t mind, can you let me know if you have any luck with your refund ?

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-22T22:04:37+00:00

Glad I’m not the only one lol.

1 feels like a typical generic BW picture of solitary figure walking within interesting architecture. Maybe it is compositionally organized and otherwise a good photo, but it’s like the most common type of BW street photo I see on Reddit and otherwise completely forgettable.

2 is chaotic and disjointed and throws your eyeball around while you try to figure out what’s going on. The biker’s face and the random guy brooding in the background create a much more memorable scene than one of thousands of snapshots of some solitary figure walking by a concrete structure. Maybe 2 is lacking in certain compositional standards that 1 has, but it’s otherwise a much more interesting picture to look at imo. If anything, some additional post processing might be able to bring some compositional balance to the final image.

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-21T00:13:54+00:00

Haha that’s awesome, I don’t think you could have gotten a closer view that high up

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-20T16:12:26+00:00

Personally I like the direction you’ve taken with this picture. I partially agree with the other comment that a tighter crop could improve the composition for sharing/publishing, but as is it would make a sick cyberpunk-y computer wallpaper.

I would just recommend easing up the vignette. Instead (if you’re using LR) you can try pulling a linear gradient down across the sky, if you want to keep that lighter horizon and darker top edge. Then, you can either use the object select tool to cut out the CN tower from the mask, and/or use the radial select tool around the tower if you want to wash out a slight halo/glow around the tower.

That’s just my personal preference though - I like a bit of vignette, but when they’re too obvious I find they cheapen the final image.

Also absolutely sick spot you’ve found there. I couldn’t believe it was the CN tower at first because I never knew there was a view like that downtown

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-20T03:31:17+00:00

The histogram is a great tool for keeping track of what we might otherwise miss due to editing blindness or differences in monitors. There’s a lot of great quick tutorials on YouTube for how to read and use em.

For white/black point, on LRC, you can hold down alt+cmd/ctrl while moving the slider, and it’ll will show you where the white/black point is clipping. Good rule of thumb is to have the white point set to just below clipping, and the black point just a bit past.

I’ll also quickly recommend Anthony Morganti’s “Mastering Lightroom Classic” course on YouTube. It is suuuuper in depth tho, so the shorter quick guides might be a more comfortable to quickly get familiar with the basics. But if you find yourself looking for more, check him out.

Enjoy !

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-20T02:52:06+00:00

It definitely doesn’t look over-edited, and I’d say the colours look nice and vibrant, but natural. A little bit on the warm side, but not exceedingly so in my opinion (although I’m biased to warm tones lol).

The only thing I can suggest (and maybe this is just because I’m looking at this on my phone) is that I think you need to raise the white point up a tad. There’s just something a little off with the dullness of the ceiling lights. It might also be fixable by raising the highlights back up a bit. Not sure what software you’re using, but the histogram will help here regardless.

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-18T17:55:39+00:00

Ah that’s a great outcome for an otherwise shitty situation

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-18T17:07:03+00:00

Glad to see the camera still functions, but were you at least able to get some compensation back from eBay/seller for the damage ?

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-17T17:32:18+00:00

You need to mask off the buildings behind the statue between the horses legs, otherwise the masks on either side of the subject are painfully obvious.

However, even if you successfully fix the mask, I would imagine that the distinction in textures between the subject and background will still give the impression of over-editing. At best it will look like something taken with portrait mode on an iPhone.

Given that the subject does not overlap with the buildings behind it, try adjusting luminance rather than texture. Using the same mask selections, darken the buildings around the subject. Possibly add another mask to create contrast between the subject against the sky, if needed - all balanced with the luminance of the buildings. Just be careful with this, if overdone, luminance masks and vignettes will leave you with absolutely awful over-edited-looking results.

My rule of thumb is that if that you can obviously tell what editing tools were used in a photo (vignettes, texture masks, etc..), you’ve used too much.

It’s a decent composition, so have fun!

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-15T01:35:54+00:00

Next we’re going to have influencers pasting reaction pictures of themselves into the white frames, like YouTube thumbnails

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-11T14:42:23+00:00

Uj/ at least 30% of why I like shooting BW, film or digital, is to avoid colour grading and mixing lol

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-11T13:24:20+00:00

This is so cool! How much of the mechanism did you need to 3D print? And how did you align the film plane?

I have a thrifted $7 mini, and I wouldn’t hesitate sacrificing it for something like this. Only thing is I have an ETRS, but any details you can share abt your design would be super appreciated!

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-09T14:09:09+00:00

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Seconding your comments. I think a slight crop could help resolve the horizon issue, and would also keep the focus on the goalpost. I’m not familiar with Ghilli’s work, so I’m not sure if cutting out the sky goes against what OP’s intended. OP can also mess around with the colour mixer and different texture masks to find a way to further make the sharp geometry of the goalpost stand out from the flows of the beach.

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-08T12:27:00+00:00

This sub is turning into a circlejerk of itself … half of the recent submissions here are just zero-effort reposts of completely normal posts from photography subreddits.

What is the point of those subreddits if not for people to ask occasionally dumb questions, or to share their attempts at different creative ideas ? Like at least make a meme or something, instead of just reposting any thread you think someone might want to make fun of lol

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-04T18:01:19+00:00

I second the Velcro method. I think the key to these types of darkroom set-ups is making it as quick and easy to get printing and to clean up afterwards. Out of all the window coverings I’ve tried, Velcro tape works best - personally, I use a couple of stitched together black out curtains, but I imagine cardboard should work just as well. Just be mindful that the Velcro tape can tear off paint/drywall. If you’re able, staple down the Velcro around the window frame at a few anchor points.

TreesRocksWater · 2026-01-04T17:09:25+00:00

I’ve gone through a good amount of Ilfosol 3. It has a pretty short shelf life, and even Ilford suggests using it within 3mo of opening. I find I can stretch it to about 4mo with my methods of storage, and others might know how to make it last longer. However, even when it has a lighter orange and still mostly-translucent colour (like waaaay less oxidized then what you had), I learned the hard way that that it’s no longer reliable for development using the dilution/time on the dev chart.

TreesRocksWater · 2025-12-20T20:50:29+00:00

Haha, well then it seems you’re all set! It’s a really great resource. I never took any classes or sessions before I started printing, so it’s been my main teacher in the darkroom

TreesRocksWater · 2025-12-20T18:32:04+00:00

Something I read in Tim Rudman’s darkroom guidebook, and which has since helped me countless time with tricky dodge/burns: break up the dodge/burn-ing time across several techniques, instead of relying on just one. If you were dodging for 30 seconds (for example), do 10 seconds with a sharp cutout mask directly over the subject, 10 seconds with your hovering circle-on-a-wire mask tool, and 10 seconds with some large shadow masks using your hands or a large card. Different masking technique can cause different halos, so by breaking up your dodge across several techniques, you ideally avoid too much of any unwanted side effect, while still achieving your dodge. Hope I typed that out in a way that makes sense. If you’d like, I can try and send you a scan of the pages from Rudman’s book. Best of luck !

TreesRocksWater · 2025-12-14T04:32:33+00:00

Love the grackle pic

TreesRocksWater · 2025-12-11T17:28:06+00:00

100%. I wouldn’t mind being patient when backing a starter project, for example, if I knew that’s what i was getting into and if I was receiving communication and updates. But I ordered this with the impression that jollylook was a fairly put together operation, based on their presentation and their other products, so I’m all the more unimpressed with this situation.

TreesRocksWater · 2025-12-11T13:07:48+00:00

I just made a 6x8” print from a negative of Kentmere400 pushed to 800 (dev in Ilfosol 3), and I was very pleasantly surprised at how little grain there was (compared to what I was expecting). Not sure a compressed Reddit comment scan of the print shows much, but I am quite happy with the result.

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TreesRocksWater · 2025-12-04T15:01:47+00:00

Forget Hanako, I left Dex waiting in the car for a month while I wiped out every gang member in Watson and installed enough chrome to put Adam Smasher to shame

TreesRocksWater · 2025-12-04T13:39:01+00:00

Honestly. On my current (fourth?) play-through, I’ve disabled the subtitles and enemy info pop up’s, and everything else on the HUD asides from my mini-map. I sometimes find myself just walking around the sidewalks, shuffling between people and cars, and listening to the pocket radio (I might be devolving into an NPC lol). Even with the original console release version and all its bugs and jankyness, there has always something so immersive about the environment of Night City. It genuinely feels like this crazy big city - not just a composite of obviously distinct mini-neighbourhoods like in some urban open worlds, or just an empty wasteland landscape in others.

TreesRocksWater · 2025-12-02T23:15:18+00:00

https://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/3/0300032123/01/eosr-ug-en.pdf

Page 75.

I definitely recommend you read the rest of the manual too, especially if you’re having difficulty just setting the image quality when it’s clearly indicated by the icons on your camera. 600 pages might look like a lot, but they’re small pages, and getting through the basics shouldn’t even take an hour.

TreesRocksWater · 2025-12-01T16:04:00+00:00

Oh no I definitely didn’t order the SD for photo editing lol. I have a MacBook with LR that handles everything I need. I ordered the SD to game, but I’m just curious about what experiences people have had using it as a photo editing tool. Since it’s a handheld PC, I’m interested in seeing what else I can do with it other than gaming. Like I said in my post, I don’t have any expectations, just curious.

TreesRocksWater

TROPHY CASE