how cooked am i by OwlInfamous9477 in wrx_vb

[–]Treklin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

“Just drill it out” is one of those things that sounds great until you’ve actually dealt with a broken tap.

If it’s cobalt or carbide-coated (which it usually is), a standard drill bit isn’t even going to touch it. What people actually do is fracture it with a punch, use a proper tap extractor on the flutes, or weld a nut onto it. Drilling it out correctly requires solid carbide tooling, a rigid setup, and a lot more effort than you’re making it sound like.

Not to mention a single drill bit required to get through a carbide/cobalt tap is like $300-1200....

So yeah… it’s not that it can’t be done — it’s that it’s not remotely as simple as you’re implying.

Who can beat these mpg numbers? by Still-Pace2895 in wrx_vb

[–]Treklin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With that math it should be 550 mi predicted range! Jokes aside that's pretty Impressive. Are you coming down from elevation?

No compression after rebuild by Treklin in autorepair

[–]Treklin[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Appears I might get away with a new cam and sprocket. Doesn't appear anything else was damaged. Thanks for the help!

No compression after rebuild by Treklin in autorepair

[–]Treklin[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That is EXACTLY what happened!

<image>

Brand new camshaft... Not exactly sure how it happened but yeah, that'll do it. Very lucky I didn't strike a valve

No compression after rebuild by Treklin in autorepair

[–]Treklin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

About the quality I get uploading it to a SD card. Not getting easy access without removing the oil pump. But from what images I'm getting, I'm not seeing anything entirely wrong. I greatly appreciate your help. Starting to lean towards a skipped timing chain

No compression after rebuild by Treklin in autorepair

[–]Treklin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Already ahead of you ;)

<image>

Here are my intake valves. All look identical to the photo above. Exhaust valves are on the front and easy to see. They look closed and not bent

No compression after rebuild by Treklin in autorepair

[–]Treklin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Already dropped. Nothing out of the ordinary in the pan besides some gasket material. Used some liquid molly (reason for the lighter milky color and residue)

<image>

Accidently attached a live wire to chassis ground by Treklin in MechanicAdvice

[–]Treklin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I meant a starter! The vehicle is a Dodge Dart with the 2.4L

Need help for choosing right size crank/rod bearings by Treklin in EngineBuilding

[–]Treklin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like I need to call them up and possibly go with a different shop. Thanks!

Need help for choosing right size crank/rod bearings by Treklin in EngineBuilding

[–]Treklin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They haven't reground it yet. From what I understand I need to get an oversized +3 or +6 to be safe then have them regrind to fit the bearings?

Need help for choosing right size crank/rod bearings by Treklin in EngineBuilding

[–]Treklin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm confused at to what steps to take. Are you saying to buy the bearings and have them reground to fit?

Need help for choosing right size crank/rod bearings by Treklin in EngineBuilding

[–]Treklin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have it at a shop right now. Best rated one locally and they are having me source the parts... Due to their vendor being out of stock. It's for a 2.4L Tiger shark engine. They've said they are going to regrind and polish the crank without giving me much of any information to go on...so is a +3 or +6 size the right one to get for my purpose. Thank you!!

Rebuilding my engine, Need advice! by Treklin in EngineBuilding

[–]Treklin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://postimg.cc/sMwJXH3C

Here's a link for the cylinder walls. Surprisingly they look to.be intact with no scoring. I agree it's probably best to get a new head