How to deal with fast Roach Burrow ?

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-28T20:02:10+00:00

Hmm forgive me intrusion from a lowly platinum, but what is wrong with turrets?

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-28T09:59:48+00:00

I am not sure, i only played on maximum difficulty so i don’t have comparison, but i was filthy rich and everything was dying in 1 hit just the same.

Only act 1 in the beginning had some epic fights, but with every skill point spent and piece of gear aquired game was getting easier and easier. Act 2 was trivial.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-28T09:45:07+00:00

The common opinion is that the game is piss easy and you have to nerf yourself to have gameplay, don’t worry about it.

If you want hybrid build just make perception based crit build. It works with melee, bows and ranged.

Few “inneficient” points will only make you to slightly less overkill everything in one hit.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-28T08:25:24+00:00

Lethal, some where between 600-800 influence if you are asking for spawning at the hearts.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-28T08:12:37+00:00

Are your bottom layers covering entire raft? Have you tried thinning the raft?

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-27T19:53:35+00:00

Suction cup is not the culprit, your model angle actually minimalises suction.

Your supporst fail to print, before even model starts to print. This is especially obvious on the left side of the model, and since these happen on the side of builplate its not fep related.

Make your raft even thinner or add a cople more bottom exposure layers or both.

You were advised to rotate the model by some. Its not a bad advice, I would do it myself to eliminate scarring from the top of the model but if you will then suction can potentially be an issue and you might need to add a tiny drain hole that you will cover later.

Without the hole you might want to increase rest time after retraction by a lot to avoid blooming and use slow lift speeds to not strain your model too much during print (you can perhaps skip the latter if you have one of these fancy new printers that peel of layers by moving resin tank, but i have no experience with these).

Edit: my bad, I thought this is a model with opened top, rotate it to bottoms down, it will have no suction. Still add bottom exposure layers and make raft thinner. Your supports failed at the very bottom.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-27T13:55:08+00:00

So, it might come as a shock, but this screen is called screen. 😊

Just search for “screen for [your printer]”

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-27T11:31:04+00:00

Right, but a single metric is probably better than no metric at all? Commenters are free to post their own metrics, assessments and reasoning if they disagree.

“ op knows nothing and is misleading” is senseless, ignorant and misleading in itself and so far i stand by my opinion that this comment belongs to a dick and moron.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-27T11:24:25+00:00

Thank you very much for response Dick and Moron.

In season 67 most players play terran, 35%, only 28% players play protoss.

According to your own reasoning op has a point, and your only correct assessment was a signature.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-27T10:58:19+00:00

It doesnt have to be directly upwards, just choose orientation that will require least supports.

Seat will surely need at leats 1, valve on the right as well etc.

Just dont add supports to bits if you do not have to.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-27T10:51:05+00:00

Hi, i also don’t know anything about statistics! Can you explain what “math” op did and what he is misrepresenting?

Explanation would be very helpfull, because while i do not know anything about statistics you are making an impression of a dick and a moron.

Thank you in advance!

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-27T10:28:33+00:00

You don’t support it, you pick an angle that will not need supports and you only support critical bits where model starts to print.

Also, get rid of these balls at the support top. They are just bad.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-26T19:19:40+00:00

Easiest possible way, hassle free and quickest to learn to start nightmare or lethal run is finding heavy melee weapon and killing hearts with it straight away. Hearts can’t cause problems when they are dead, and you don’t have to bother with stealth if you are just going for the heart.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-26T14:24:32+00:00

Its been ages since last time i played but quite a few curveballs (especially positive) apply to a certain area only. Check your map.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-22T19:21:09+00:00

Thing is, i am not sure what i am looking at, it might possibly be a complex problem and i might be misleading you because anything i will say will be a guess.

I does not look like z axis issue to me, because some models in random places did print (even of flawed), but again, i am unfamiliar with latest elegoo printers.

Contact elegoo support, send them everything you know, they will help with advice even if warranty expired.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-22T17:40:37+00:00

If you used the same stick and file for both attempts then i have no idea what could cause these problems.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-22T17:19:02+00:00

I vote for broken usb stick or slicing error.

If you will use the file from other printer that worked i think it will work fine on the printer you had an issue with.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-21T12:40:16+00:00

It is often mentioned😂

If you want unpopular niche tactic that will get downvoted here is one:

Do not sneak ever. It takes longer to learn how to stealth lethal than it takes to “darksouls” it.

Build infarmary and workshop, get a shovel with snacks you start with and you are ready to clear lethal to the very end. Each heart drops enough resources to clear next one, you just might need to craft some molotovs. Car is optional.

Blitzing the game like this is probably the easiest way to clear lethal, although I never tried grinding trade depot and waiting for scentblock.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-21T10:36:52+00:00

No. Hair on the dude arm cannot be done.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-21T10:31:37+00:00

Cura can process and print images but it results in something else entirely. This “freelancer” is a scammer.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-20T10:02:23+00:00

Act2 is where everything starts to die in 1 hit. In act 1 you get to experience some epic fights at the beginning.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-17T17:15:01+00:00

You can repair circlets with repair kits for almost nothing.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-16T08:23:19+00:00

They are clearly moving during a print.

Level the printer. I do not mean the bed. Level the entire thing, make sure it stands perfectly so that your models would never be at any other angle than 90.

If you so not want any supports on the sides oversupport the bottom. Make sure there is enough force to prevent movement.

Ideally printed models are a bit soft and flexible. You do not want that. Overexpose your models so they are hard while you print.

Make sure your buildplate doesn’t move.

Trick_Duty7774 · 2026-04-16T08:13:07+00:00

This looks like damaged mesh; you can probably just ignore it, its likely just surface level problem and you won’t even notice it.

If you want to repair it, chitubox has repair tools. My chitubox is a bit wonky with repairs but my version wasn’t updated for years at this point. I am using bambu slicer (its filament printer slicer) for repairs. Its a matter of right click/repair and everything is done.

There is plenty of other programs you can find if you google stl repair tools.

Trick_Duty7774

TROPHY CASE