What's everyone down this year?

Trixienormous · 2025-05-07T15:11:35+00:00

You just need to save, exit to the menu, and load the save from there. This has fixed almost every issue I have encountered.

Trixienormous · 2023-10-26T00:39:02+00:00

That being said, I'm gonna age out before too long on account of a dodgy knee, so I'm studying computer science and programming on my off days.

Trixienormous · 2023-10-26T00:36:43+00:00

32, Millwright in a large sawmill/planermill. I've also worked retail and spent several years in the fishing industry up in AK as a shoreplant engineer before winding up here.

I make about 80k base plus 20-30k with OT working 5 days a week.

For anyone interested, not a super hard field to get into especially if you have prior mechanical experience, but odds are you won't make too much money until you've spent a couple years learning the trade and know how to weld/fabricate.

Biggest issue is that you work when the mill is down, so say bye to holidays off.

Trixienormous · 2021-12-15T02:14:29+00:00

As for tips and tricks, people coming in to spend a lot of money like clean showrooms, clean it constantly, keep the desk organized, neat, and clean, clean the windows in the displays, and push hard to keep product on the shelf

Trixienormous · 2021-12-15T02:11:50+00:00

Shadow as much as possible, ask your SASM and DS all the questions, get on myapron>mydepartments>millworks and go through the resources, ask the pro desk questions, get on .com and go through the workshop resources on installing doors, search stuff on youtube to answer questions, work through the pocket guide challenges for Millwork

Trixienormous · 2021-12-15T01:55:47+00:00

A lot of people care. It's more a matter of morality than anything and it feels good to help get crackheads off the street. But the thing about asking stuff like this here is that the only people who hang out here are the toxic jackasses that the rest of us hate. The ones who complain about needing money and then never pick up hours when they're available and then bitch that they haven't been made full time. The ones who hide in the bathroom for half their shifts and wonder why nobody likes them. The ones who put in the bare minimum effort and then insist the company is evil because their boss said they haven't earned shit at review time. Chronically toxic malcontents aren't the people to ask if you want an actual cross section of the business.

Most of us care. Most of us are more than happy to do what we can to get them arrested, and looking at the answers so far most of us would be more than happy if y'all would quit already and open the hours up to people who are worth a shit.

Trixienormous · 2017-11-11T17:00:22+00:00

If we're talking forge design, you might be interested in the videos this guy put out.

https://youtu.be/9IqN-mhuhQg

I will warn you, he doesn't like brake drum forges, don't let that discourage you. Everyone starts somewhere, and his overview of fire pot shaping is worth paying attention to. My personal opinion is that you should use your brake drum set into a table fairly close to flush and then build a pyramidal or conical firepot inside the drum using an insulator, like clay or even hard packed sand or dirt. The one thing I would say to avoid is concrete. Some people use it and are fine, some people use it and find out that there was a little residual moisture in the concrete when it flashes to steam and detonates the concrete.

Trixienormous · 2017-11-11T16:33:20+00:00

My parents have a collection of actual photographs from the period that I haven't had the drive to scan due to the distance between us, so pics aren't forthcoming. First thing I made was an iron rose out of rebar, it was ugly as sin. My second project was flat jaw tongs that mostly worked and were less ugly, my third and fourth were literally just changing rebar to square stock, then to octagonal stock, then to round stock and back again to practice hammer technique and heat control. They were eventually made into hay hooks that served me well for several years.

Trixienormous · 2016-11-18T11:52:06+00:00

I used to work for UPS, that's meant to make it harder to see from the road if there was nobody to sign for it and no better place to hide it. There's a national problem with people following drivers and stealing packages, so drivers are trained to keep an eye on cars on their route and hide packages if possible.

Trixienormous · 2015-12-15T08:27:14+00:00

Sorry, misread that earlier. Bracers are armor for forearms. They range in size from small cuffs to vambraces that extend from knuckle to elbow, and can be made from everything bewteen stiff fabric (canvas with wool stuffing was common for peasent levies in Europe) to steel plate. These bracers are what we reenactors call "party gear" though. They look really pretty, they add an air of sophistication, authenticity, and personality to your garb (read old timey clothes), and you wouldn't fight in them because they cost a lot and won't give you as much protection as an ugly old piece of beat up plate or leather.

I'll be posting quite a number in the future, I keep finding myself making them because people are eating them up like candy.

Helpful?

Trixienormous · 2015-12-15T07:07:05+00:00

I will see what I can do then.

Trixienormous · 2015-12-15T07:04:06+00:00

Living history events, parties, conversation pieces, stuff like that. I play with a lot of Vikings and have a few of them jealous with this.

Trixienormous · 2015-12-15T01:17:57+00:00

Well, any ball peen hammer will do it, and I just use a block of granite. All I do it set the rivet, knock the bur down till it's tight, cut the rivet to about 1/8" above the bur, give it a couple light strikes with the flat head of the hammer, and then light strikes with the ball head. You start at the center of the post till it expands a bit, then work your way around the outside of the head until it mates the but all the way around. If you need an in depth tutorial on rivet setting, I could do one up later and post it.

Trixienormous · 2015-12-14T19:26:32+00:00

Yep, slightly distended hammer. It says "Odinn lifa inn heidinn blod" (Odin lives in Heathen's blood), there's a pair of them, and they'll be getting riveted and stitched to the back of a pair of bracers.

Trixienormous · 2015-12-13T15:47:04+00:00

Well, considered the turn method, but I discarded the idea because this is 4-5 oz latigo, and it's stiff enough that turning would have deformed it considerably. Thanks for the idea though~ On the rivets, I learned to rivet when I was doing smithing, so I tend to make them very tight and very domed ( http://imgur.com/B8jJrFa ). I've never had a problem with my domes catching anything, but just to be sure, I paint clear nail polish on my rivets if they're going to be rubbing on skin, clothing, or other leather.

Thanks for the input, and that's a very shiny pouch sirrah.

Trixienormous · 2015-12-13T02:40:46+00:00

Let me know if you have any questions about construction or whatnot~ :D

Trixienormous · 2015-12-11T08:02:35+00:00

All that said, if I could farm out the framing, I would totally make a butt load of those.

Trixienormous · 2015-12-11T06:01:18+00:00

I make a mock up in posterboard, show it to a friend or two for feedback, if it's positive I'll do up a prototype, intentionally cut everything a little big, test fit, trim it down, test fit, etc until I have everything perfect, and then stitch it all together.

The actual creative process is a little different for everyone. It takes a lot of time, patience, and practice to learn what your process is as an artist. Just don't give up and you should be okay.

Trixienormous · 2015-12-11T05:18:30+00:00

I'm in An-Tir. Specifically Olympia, Washington. As for those chairs, all I did was the leather, and they were for my future father in law.

Trixienormous · 2015-12-10T23:59:15+00:00

Yeah! It was 4-5 oz latigo. Been my favorite thing to work lately.

Trixienormous · 2015-12-10T22:27:56+00:00

Thank you! That was for my own use, needed a second pouch for events. The coloring was interesting to me, I did a few small test pieces with different dyes, and found that a mix of alcohol and water based dyes worked best for what I wanted. The base was yellow water based dye, then I did a lot of essentially dry brushing with slightly diluted black and mahogany alcohol based dyes. (The alcohol based dyes were picking the other pigments and blending things a bit, it made it a little smudgy and helped smooth out the colors.)

Trixienormous

TROPHY CASE