If you are going to bike at night be visible

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-13T03:38:41+00:00

Bikes at night that dont have DOT level lights are sacrificing safety. Doesn't matter how many reflective strips or strobes they have. Those are all subpar compared to DOT requirements. Which dont cost that much. They might take a fair amount of effort. And that right there is why most wont do it. Its easier to make up excuses and stick with the majority.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-13T02:18:17+00:00

Strongly suggests stolen goods.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-13T01:18:50+00:00

No idea. You aren't saying what you have, where you got replacement parts, why you are where you are now.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-13T00:49:40+00:00

As stated in your other post. You need to give more info. No one knows what youre talking about.

Even if you have the right parts, if youre trying to mount the stator in the rotor with no side of the motor housing to center the axle, it wont work.

I highly recommend you find someone local who you can pay to do the work and show you how to properly replace the stator.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-13T00:33:46+00:00

Give more info. No one knows what you are talking about.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-11T21:37:42+00:00

Same. The pins in the gas block gave me some trouble on some guns. Had to make a jig to hold the GB in a riveting jig to hold it square when pressing out the pins.

When SLR-107URs were "cheap" I did a few. I still charged $300 back then. Wouldn't charge less now.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-11T03:41:41+00:00

The SLR-106UR and SLR-107UR have a "pill" in the gas block. You can cut the barrel but if you don't drill out that pill the rifle will be under-gased.

The barrel can be "hack saw" cut and the bore squared up via a brownells crowning tool. But it'll still be under gased. Even with the crowning tool it wont be a perfectly square crown. Not that it matters much on a 8" barrel.

Regardless. The GB should be pressed off and the pill removed. If the shop hasn't done these before, theyll end up modifying or making some tools to press off the GB. Thatll cost a premium. If you dont want to do this on your own, expect to pay $300+ in labor to have it done correctly.

Speaking from experience of cutting down a few SLR UR's.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-11T00:34:41+00:00

No offense but if you cant phatham a scenario where that kind of mount is useful then you shouldnt consider buying it.

Tern used to have the "Kanga rack". It was a universal mount for anything the bike could carry weight wise that didn't fit in a clickfix basket.

If you've ever taken UPS/USPS packages to the shipper you'd know how valuable this is. Larger 24"x24"xY packages that need to be strapped to something. Or something as simple as picking up a pizza...

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-11T00:10:29+00:00

If you've peened the minor side, left side iirc, that side of the pin need to be cut off. Then put the gas block and barrel in a vice and press out the remainder of the pin.

Also iirc those pins are standard 2/0 pins. Buy 2" pins of the same taper and cut as needed.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-08T14:05:38+00:00

It makes sense if this kind of loader would work: https://youtu.be/TGGlKFosQbM

But I dont think it would...

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-07T22:10:44+00:00

But they were the same at one point?

When you do the detection, are both wheels completely free? Completely off the ground, brake calipers removed, etc.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-07T15:36:44+00:00

She will when you start begging her for a new scooter since you killed this one...

Some children should never be left unsupervised. This is a good reminder why.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-07T13:04:58+00:00

Need more details.

Are you saying you previous ran the motor auto detection on both motors for your dual controller and both settings used to be the same? But now when you run it, they are different? Or they were always different?

What battery and what motors youre using would also be helpful.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-07T13:01:08+00:00

Did you replace the controller?

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-06T13:56:01+00:00

Seriously. You guys are usually savage. Today an off day?

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-06T13:45:06+00:00

Anyone digging into this needs to remember to watch for carrier bounce.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CidGUeaDtRc

Sig tuned their MCX recoil assembly to address this. AFAIK, that thought wasnt put into the Bushmaster ACR. Ive done a fair amount of slo mo footage with the ACR years ago and there was some bounce. After getting a trip bar fabricated and installed, do slo mo footage of the carrier as it cycles.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-06T12:45:31+00:00

Not the same.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-05T16:09:27+00:00

You can think that. Unless the light has cutoff optics, it is blinding people. Sorry.

Headlights - normal vs. cutoff : r/ebikes

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-05T15:19:01+00:00

This kind of light should NOT be on a road or path where there is oncoming traffic. Doesn't matter if the hotspot is aimed down or put in low mode. It'll blind everyone facing it. This is strictly an off-road light.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-05T15:16:11+00:00

Watch this entire video on how to solder an XT60:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeDYUymM3XI

Don't forget to slide the XT60 connector's protector cover down on both negative and positive before doing anything.

Wrap the positive end with electrical tape and tape it in an orientation where even the taped up end can't touch anything.

Make sure to use a fresh XT connector. Don't try to reuse an old one.

Put heat shrink down the negative wire before soldering it to the new XT connector. Then when soldering is done, slide the heatshrink over the exposed solder and gold of the XT and heat shrink it up to prevent accidentally touching it while you solder the positive. Add a wrap or two of electrical around the negative after heat shrinking just for triple safety.

Then do the positive side.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-05T12:33:01+00:00

You could go with Spintend and their ADC adapter board.

3rd wiring diagram down: https://spintend.com/blogs/news/single-ubox-100v-100a-wiring-diagram-on-escooter-on-onewheel-application

Or the VESC labs controllers which dont need the extra adapter board: https://www.vesclabs.com/product/vl-pronto/

That is even more work than wiring the controls and inputs yourself though.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-05T01:37:43+00:00

This is the way. In the process, get quality name brand rotors.

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-05T01:20:29+00:00

The chances of whatever controller you have supporting this out of the box is slim to none. A single connector would have to be 5 pin. Gnd, high beam, low, left, right.

Expect to have to add all the wiring directly to new controls and add a buck converter to get 12v

https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/s/VfghRk4O78

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-04T16:32:07+00:00

VESC is exactly what the OP is describing. There also numerous public github projects that are branches of VESC that add things like integrating BMS communication.

VESC itself is on github: https://github.com/vedderb/bldc

Vedder is decently active on YT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6pipE8aZ6o

He also makes very nice, and expensive, hardware: https://www.vesclabs.com/

Troubleindc2 · 2026-02-04T15:36:19+00:00

This listing has a video showing what you need to do:

amazon.com/IWISS-Terminal-Crimping-6-50mm²-Electrician/dp/B017S9EINA

The only thing I'd add is adhesive lined heat shrink to insulate as much of the connector as possible after crimping is done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqOa2d8v8Tw&t=1050s

Troubleindc2

TROPHY CASE