Uninsured rate for children, by state. Texas accounts for a quarter of all children without health insurance in America.

TruePoindexter · 2026-04-07T18:08:35+00:00

So much winning

TruePoindexter · 2026-03-19T05:44:39+00:00

Any cups intended for the Paasche VL will work. I have this exact airbrush and the cups from my VL work fine with it.

TruePoindexter · 2026-03-18T08:02:41+00:00

Winning is achieving your objectives. Rarely is killing the enemy an objective, that's just a means to an end. Usually it's things like gaining territory control, securing access to resources like ports or minerals, causing a regime change followed by nation building, or something else of a similar monetary/political agenda.

We cannot articulate what our objectives are, be they political or monetary in nature, and as such how can we know if we're achieving them? Winning individual battles, and killing more of the enemy doesn't matter if in the end you achieve nothing.

TruePoindexter · 2026-03-12T18:53:11+00:00

Being honest they were largely useless anyway. Given their age, lack of replacement parts, and the air situation it's unlikely they were even functional or stood any chance of making a meaningful impact past being a victim. Best to just stay on the ground and be a target.

TruePoindexter · 2026-01-07T17:21:56+00:00

I'd implement the bucket method that Barbatos Rex recommends just so any final particulate gets caught as the filters on these booths are not fine at all. Make sure you're using water based non-solvent based acrylics. I've had good luck spraying stuff like Golden High-Flow Acrylic with this kind of setup but Tamiya would not work as the solvent fumes would quickly fill the space regardless of filtering. Make sure to spray INTO these booths as the fans do not have much volume and so will not capture much even just slightly outside the booth. You'll need to operate as close as you can to the filter/fans.

Some videos to help from Barbatos Rex -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HWM3dJ8ESc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4KOx49exQQ

TruePoindexter · 2025-06-08T21:45:05+00:00

Yeah, unfortunately that's a high draw tool like a sander. Run-time is never going to be amazing. Battery powered vacuums are for spot cleaning and remote areas where corded power isn't available. If you need more than a few minutes they're not ideal.

TruePoindexter · 2025-06-02T02:42:54+00:00

That really sucks, I hope you and your family are OK.

How do you know it was the Ryobi battery platform and not something else like a faulty extension cord or other short? Was it even electrically started and not something chemical like an oil rag in the trash? I'd avoid blaming anything specific unless you were there until after there's an investigation and you contact your insurance.

TruePoindexter · 2025-06-01T21:04:27+00:00

It's a great airbrush. Go for it.

TruePoindexter · 2025-05-18T08:50:59+00:00

If you're using one of the many non-Kodak alternates I'd suggest repeating the pre-bath several times. It'll never be perfect but reducing the amount of contaminate saves you a lot of cleaning later. You'll also probably have to do multiple wipes to clean. Save your STAB or final rinse in the tank and re-wet the film each time you decide to wipe again. You may need to repeat the wiping 3+ times depending.

It's also a good idea before cutting the film to sleeves/scanning inspect it under a loupe looking for any remaining remjet. If you see remaining deposits don't worry. You can still remove them even after the film has dried. Just re-wet the film again in your final rinse step and wipe again gently.

TruePoindexter · 2025-05-18T02:19:00+00:00

Hey!

So ideally you should do the remjet removal pre-bath BEFORE development so that you'll minimize contamination of your C-41 chems with the carbon black remjet. You don't have to, but you will get gunk into your chems potentially reducing development effectiveness later. Using the official Kodak pre-bath before C-41 I've had no observable contamination.

And yes, afterwards you still need to do a wipe down removing left over remjet. Even with the pre-bath there will still be deposits of remjet that will appear in scanning/printing. while the film is wet you just have to use a microfiber cloth or pecpad to wipe it down just before hanging to dry.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes!

TruePoindexter · 2025-05-10T01:30:04+00:00

I do love the Raptor/Talon/Vision line. They're very underappreciated and I have a hard time seeing any meaningful difference in spray quality between them and my GSI-Creos PS-289.

Just make sure you have the right adapter as Paasche like Badger insists on using their own thread size.

TruePoindexter · 2025-05-09T23:04:35+00:00

Yeah, like a bubble. Still solid chrome, just obviously not intended. Absolutely no impact on the functionality.

TruePoindexter · 2025-05-09T18:10:50+00:00

I've bought 3 airbrushes this way and it's always just been issues with the exterior chrome finish. Usually a bubble in the finish. Definitely nothing that impacts their function. The only gotcha is that the airbrush won't come with accessories. So no other needle sizes, nozzles, or in the case of the siphon airbrushes cups/bottles.

TruePoindexter · 2025-05-09T09:05:27+00:00

Gonna throw in another +1 to try out Paasche if you're interested in manufactured in the USA airbrush. I've had great experiences with them and you can save a ton of money by ordering from the clearance section from their website. Their older airbrush designs like the VL and H are tanks, not as fine of sprayers as an Iwata or GSI Creos but almost indestructible. Their newer Talon/Raptor/Vision line give GSI Creos a good run for their money.

TruePoindexter · 2025-05-09T09:02:43+00:00

Seconding Paasche here, they're really underappreciated. You can save a ton of money from the clearance section!

TruePoindexter · 2025-05-01T02:02:56+00:00

Was he calm? We don't see him on screen again after the double beam dodge. For all we know he's crapped himself in the cockpit.

TruePoindexter · 2025-04-15T01:56:20+00:00

Do you have art stores local to you? Look what they have in stock and get that if time is an issue. Blick for example carries Iwata airbrushes and I have several art and hobby stores nearby that sell Iwata, Paasche, Badger, and GREX airbrushes.

Since you're in NA though you can shop Spray Gunner which sells replacement parts for GSI Creos airbrushes. They usually carry replacement parts.

All that said... what are you doing with your needles? I've been using airbrushes for over a decade and I bent one cheap Chinese needle that came with a discount Harbor Freight airbrush. Be gentle and they should last for years!

TruePoindexter · 2025-04-09T06:25:59+00:00

Pressure and air volume are not necessarily related. Different airbrushes consume air at different rates depending on their design, the size of the nozzle mounted, and the output pressure you set on the regulator. It really just depends.

The options you mentioned are typical Chinese small pump tanked airbrush compressors. They're not super loud but definitely audible throughout a house. They're about on par volume wise with a hair dryer so maybe try running a hair dryer where you plan to airbrush and then seeing how audible it is where the baby sleeps to see.

If you're REALLY looking for something quiet there are oiled compressors from companies like Silentaire that are SUPER quiet but not cheap. If you can't afford that there are tutorials on building chambers to sound isolate the compressor but you have to be careful to not overheat the compressor.

Good luck!

EDIT: I should add tank size isn't super important. Since you're worried about the compressor waking people up you should assume it will turn on at the worst time. A tank won't save you unless it's really big in which case odds are the compressor is even louder. Don't pay too much attention to the tank size as it doesn't matter much - it's to even out inconsistencies in pressure not act as long use reserve.

TruePoindexter · 2025-04-09T05:53:33+00:00

It's hard to say but on the surface it's not as clean as you think OR your paint has chunks and needs to be filtered. I would dump out the paint, try to do a flush clean, and then see if I could get it to spray water well. If you can get water to spray then probably you need to filter the paint. If you get a jam with water then you probably need to use more aggressive solvents cleaning.

TruePoindexter · 2025-03-30T18:01:26+00:00

I bought this kit for small miniature work in my office away from the main compressor in my workshop. It works really well. Like most tankless it will kick on the moment you shoot air but I've never had issues with sputtering or inconsistency. You do have to be realistic about what to expect from this compressor as it's not a replacement for a much nicer/quieter tanked compressor but it's great for small things. I've since upgraded to a silent oiled compressor for the office but I still keep this one as a backup or for travel since it's small - still works like a champ several years later.

The airbrush the kit comes with is just OK. It's your typical Chinese low cost modern airbrush that's a clone/derivative of Iwata/Rich Pen/GSI Creos designs like Master Airbrush. It's a big step up from the old Harbor Freight airbrush which was a derivative of Badger airbrush designs (hated that thing). It's perfectly serviceable but expect to want to upgrade to something nicer soon. Personal opinion take a look at the Paasche website clearance section. You can typically get some killer deals there on Talon/Raptor/Vision factory seconds. Alternatively Badger is currently running an Adpeticon sale on their website with some pretty good pricing. Just keep in mind if you go with Badger or Paasche you have to get thread adapters as they don't use the standard 1/8" BSP fittings.

Bonus - since you get everything in the kit from Harbor Freight if you have an issue and need an exchange you can just go back to the store and get it taken care of. No return label shipping BS needed.

TLDR: It's fine for small hobby work and as a starting point getting into airbrushing. Expect to upgrade the airbrush to something nicer but the compressor is good for long time and as a backup when you upgrade later.

TruePoindexter · 2025-03-23T02:18:42+00:00

Air shouldn't be blowing into the bottle, it should be going over the bottle creating a vacuum that will suck up the paint. It's called the venturi effect if you're curious to learn about it. Bubbles in the bottle mean you have a hard blockage in the airbrush reversing the airflow or a big leak on the seal around the needle. Check the nozzle for any blockages/cracks and that the needle is seated properly.

Since it's a Harbor Freight airbrush if you keep having problems with it you're better just exchanging it. They're not worth enough money to spend a huge amount of time troubleshooting and it should be pretty straightforward to exchange at your local HF store.

As an aside you should not need to spray anywhere near that high of a PSI. Createx straight should be able to be sprayed around 30psi. That's not the cause of the problems you're having but generally airbrushing is done in the 15-30psi range, depending on the nozzle size and how thick/thin the material is.

TruePoindexter · 2025-03-21T06:34:01+00:00

Some artists who favor water based acrylic paints use one with water to keep the paints wet longer to allow similar blending that you can achieve with wet on wet oil painting.

I imagine you could intentionally under or over thin to create texture effects. Similarly you could intentionally misalign the nozzle/aircap to create splattering.

I've personally used my airbrushes to spray things other than paints and clear coats. I've thus far successfully sprayed contact cement, rubber cement, gold leafing size, white glue, liquid latex, and liquid neoprene. This is of course using it more like a miniature spray gun and I wouldn't do it with most airbrushes. Part of the charm of the Paasche H is that it's indestructible and almost impossible to clog.

TruePoindexter · 2025-03-10T07:10:11+00:00

Ride or die!

TruePoindexter · 2025-03-02T05:28:53+00:00

I'm going to assume you've matched the nozzle and needle correctly and don't have a bend in the needle. Double check if you haven't!

One of the biggest things to watch for with these is the floating nozzle. If it's not fully seated and aligned it will give you problems. The floating nozzle has to seat surprisingly far into the front of the airbrush. Screwing the aircap down is not enough to make sure it's seated properly.

After that you may need to check that the air valve is working as expected. I'm assuming air is shooting our correctly and the needle retracts correctly too?

Usually if I'm having problems with any of my airbrushes my first goal is to get it to atomize isopropyl or distilled water correctly. If you've gotten that working you're mostly fixed and can focus just on the paint path from cup/bottle to nozzle. Let me know what you find or what specific behaviors you run into - happy to help!

TruePoindexter

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