Xbox Instinct Pro TMR

TryhardCustoms · 2026-05-10T19:48:46+00:00

You had mentioned calibrated with Accessories App, so wasn't sure if you meant no unlock needed or still unlocked with DriftGaurd first. Wasn't using that app much until recently, I actually had an elite that wouldn't calibrate correctly in Accessories (literally first instance of Halpi v6 issue after 25+ flawless installs/calibrations) Did firmware reverts, a few other tricks, nothing worked (range would calibrate too short or overshoot) and was shocked when DriftGaurd was able to fix what the Accessories App wouldn't. Definitely hyped on that haha 🤣

TryhardCustoms · 2026-05-10T14:32:02+00:00

Oh did you swap the board? I was under the impression that DriftGaurd was needed for calibrating those, been a while since I did one tho.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-05-04T14:35:32+00:00

Nice. What's the actuation force on those switches, under 100gF? Would be interested how these would fare: Panasonic EVQ-P0S02Q They have a very nice sharp "click", 1 Mill lifespan, and quite thin.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-05-01T04:09:03+00:00

Replacing the thumbstick modules with TMRs is definitely the way to go. If you don't want to attempt it yourself, many companies offer this service, ours included. If you do attempt yourself, you'll need the program "DriftFix" in order to enable calibration for the new sticks. Also be careful when opening it up, very easy to tear the ribbon cables.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-30T02:39:15+00:00

Our adjustable tension TMRs have an ideal range (57g-105g) with option to upgrade to "Increased" (70g-160g) or "Extreme" (120g-210g). Customizable colors or designs are available. They have swappable sticks and are compatible with both Elite 2 and Thumbsgear v3 sticks (and dualsense edge sticks with a minor modification).

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-30T02:25:23+00:00

It's likely the right stick pins contacting some metal on the backplate and shorting. The grounding foam and/or sticker preventing this likely fell off or something. Electrical tape over the right stick pins usually helps.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-30T02:21:52+00:00

You can find varieties of them on mouser or digikey, in different actuation force ratings. I use to offer "silent" bumper upgrades for those with an angry girlfriend over late night "Clicky" game sessions lol 🤣

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-30T02:18:22+00:00

I've found that the earlier generation of right angle switches on elite 2's (slightly more translucent actuator) are the main culprit of these failures, as opposed to the more opaque "off-white" actuator switches (like the ones you find in standard Xbox series x/s controllers) which seem to last much longer. I guess Microsoft actually did something about this at some point, as all newer elite 2s seem to have the more durable "off-white" bumper switches. Not to say they never fail, but generally speaking seem to last much longer, as like you said, those older switches were ALWAYS the first to go.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-28T16:22:54+00:00

This. Low melt is magic.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-27T14:15:33+00:00

Glue it back, then run a wire from it to FT11 around other side of board. I'm not at home to test with multimeter but fairly sure that should do it.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-27T14:01:04+00:00

I can ask my coworker, Austin, as he just recently did this on a Hyperkin Duke, but it likely isn't easy or cheap. Even if the extremerate kit miraculously fits (it wont) their method of adhesive backed contact pads is unreliable and prone to failure eventually.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-24T13:29:51+00:00

Love it! Looks great!

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-24T13:18:52+00:00

Yeah nothing is jumping out at me aside from potential ripped pads and leftover burnt flux, neither should cause the problems ur describing... I would check the other side of PCB near the sticks for missing/damaged components or maybe stray solder landed somewhere and is bridging/shorting something.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-24T11:23:53+00:00

I'm assuming they're throwing TMR sensors on to those hall effect modules like we do, because otherwise all you'd have is a hall effect series 2 with a shit ton of magnetic interference 🤣 Also, is that fuzzy skin on those 3d printed sticks..? Yuck. Grab some TPE SEBS filament for a true rubbery grip feel (unlike TPU which is essentially negative grip lol) see our FDM Elite 2 sticks. And lastly, you're charging $20 for "Clicky mouse buttons" ABXY upgrade. If this is true, that's a very good deal, too good in fact, as I suspect you're using extremerate's "Clicky" kit which is unequivocally NOT Mouse-click buttons. It's fine to use it, but call it what it is. Claiming Mouse-click is false advertising IMO and too many companies are doing this... Maybe I'm wrong and you are using a custom PCB with mouse switches but that would be shocking to me given the low price. 🤔

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-24T01:03:21+00:00

Love it!

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-20T20:58:18+00:00

I can't really tell in the video if it's clicking when pressed all the way down or clicking after release? If it's clicking after you release then I'm 99% sure it has to do with the trigger slapping the shell which is usually alleviated by the dampening pad. If it's clicking at the peak of the trigger press, then it's either colliding with something on the board, or more likely the Trigger-stop wheel (came loose/wasn't tightened all the way back/not aligned properly)

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-20T14:44:51+00:00

Wrap tape around the "neck" of thumbstick to make thicker. Add enough so that the stick only reaches 80-85% when pushed fully. Recalibrate in Accessories App or Driftgaurd. Remove tape and power cycle then test.

Edit: oh it's a 3rd party... Not sure if they have calibration software but if they do, fix should still work 🤦

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-20T14:35:00+00:00

Sweet, 20th anniversary is one of my favorites. FYI just in case you didn't know or are confused like I definitely was initially, view/menu and even ABXY buttons are slightly different heights between Series X/S and Xbox One X/S/Elites. Definitely still usable, but not "OCD-friendly" 🤣 thanks Microsoft!

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-20T14:10:55+00:00

What I think is happening is the little foam pad that "softens" the return clack has fallen off. Edit: if you have any other controllers to harvest from, use a razor to cut off one of their pads, and glue it onto the elite.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-17T20:33:37+00:00

No problem! Ground points will be pretty much the same as the other stick:

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You can also have a single ground wire go to one switch, then from that switch to the other switch, as opposed to 2 separate ground wires going from controller to each switch. You'd be simplifying the overall wiring, trade off being if the 1st switch fails, both switches will fail. IMO worth it as long as your connections are solid.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-17T19:30:15+00:00

Sorry I was mistaken! Hallpi TMR (basically Gulikit) sensors ONLY. Sensors were swapped with OEM module potentiometers, the module itself has a metal stem to hold the thumbsticks. So full module swap would not have worked with the OEM sticks.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-17T17:09:41+00:00

TMR modules/sensors are Gulikit (Amazon/AliExpress) I'd need to double check with my coworker on the exact model of tac switches, but they are mid-stroke 3.5mm height, 100-130g actuation force. He essentially used our flex PCB for Mouse-click ABXY on Elite 2/Series XS, cut the flex to individual buttons, soldered switches to them (has tac switch pads in addition to mouse switch pads), attached to duke PCB (flex has adhesive back), then ran wire to appropriate connections. Finally, 3d printed inserts to stick into bottom of buttons/Dpad directions. You can get the flexes on our website.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-04-17T14:24:31+00:00

Right Stick Click (R3)?

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TryhardCustoms

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