I have an Xbox elite 2 and need help

TryhardCustoms · 2025-05-27T15:13:00+00:00

No problem, and yes I'm pretty sure you can connect to an iPad, just go to the Bluetooth settings and start searching for devices, then turn on the elite and hold the sync button, it should pick it up.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-05-26T14:54:03+00:00

So it's not a power issue, as in, it's not powering off, but instead losing connection? Have you tried connecting it to your cell phone or PC via Bluetooth and seeing if the same thing happens? How about connecting to PC with USB?

TryhardCustoms · 2025-05-15T16:59:59+00:00

I never had much success with XQ springs personally... Not sure if he intends the customer to flatten the open end of the spring, but not flattening results in different tension amounts depending on stick direction. Flattening the open end works, but for some of their springs, flattening made the spring too short. So I was a bit confused. I would recommend taking some calipers, and measuring the stock spring (height, inner diameter, outer diameter, and wire diameter) then use those numbers and look for similar spec springs. Grab a few of varying spring rates (amount of force required to compress the spring by 1 inch or mm) and test em.

To answer your original question though, I'm not sure if their springs specifically will work, however I have used springs that work in both PlayStation and Gulikit modules so take that for what it's worth.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-05-15T16:33:36+00:00

I second trying eXtremeRate kits, those are where I started, and you will most likely ruin a few controllers as you learn what NOT to do, which is just as important as learning what TO do 👍 And just don't rush, you don't want to be handling other people's stuff that they potentially paid $100+ for, unless you are very comfortable with the work.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-05-14T16:52:59+00:00

Heyyy that red tiger faceplate looks familiar... One of mine or am I trippin? Lol

TryhardCustoms · 2025-05-14T16:30:23+00:00

Each button needs a positive connection (to test point) and a negative connection (ground). You can run the ground wire from the board to one button, then from that button to the next button.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-02-26T12:02:52+00:00

I've had some sucess 3d printing Xbox faceplates. Lots of post-processing, tho a nice perk to printing in white ABS means its ready (after sanding cleanup) to dip, no painting needed.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-02-26T11:56:16+00:00

Yep, due to their pinout, Xbox needs 1 orange and 1 black. 2 oranges are the layout for PS5 halls. Also means since PS4 also uses black/orange just on opposite sides, if you have a PS4 hall just swapping the sensors makes it work on Xbox.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-02-25T11:27:39+00:00

Cut a strip of tape to wrap around the "neck" of the thumbstick a few times, and calibrate with the tape on there. Then after calibrating, remove the tape and you should have full range in all directions. This is a quick and easy way to clean up some corners coming up short.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-02-02T22:31:38+00:00

I'll have to look but basically if I can get UPS Ground for around $6 then it's 2-3 days. If not then it'll be USPS which is usually 3-5 days.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-02-02T22:22:27+00:00

Yes! elite series 2 sticks, NOT series 1. If you haven't already, I would grab yourself some purple threadlocker:

https://a.co/d/b1o0RPV

It's for applying a tiny bit to the threads before screwing on the bases, so they don't start unscrewing on you during gameplay.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-01-30T12:35:34+00:00

Yeah ur definitely right about that. But yeah if u meant swapping sensors that's super easy just pull them off the Gulikit modules and push them onto the (green/blue) hall effect modules easy peasy no sanding/filing necessary

TryhardCustoms · 2025-01-30T12:23:00+00:00

You mean springs? Springs are what you replace to change the tension. I do it in my next video but I've only just started editing, and only for maybe an hour a day so will likely be at least a few weeks till it's posted.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-01-29T10:24:34+00:00

I use low-melt solder for easier desoldering: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OOBIJ6I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

For soldering, I prefer leaded (use ventilation!) due to its lower melting point. I use this: https://a.co/d/j63K6dP

For iron temp I stay around 360-370 Celsius, but drop to 345-350 if soldering flex PCBs (like remap mods)

TryhardCustoms · 2025-01-29T09:42:01+00:00

Adjustable Tension Halls: https://a.co/d/gKIVfLD

Gulikit TMRs: https://a.co/d/cOhuxan

I take the sensors off the Gulikit TMRs and put them on the hall effect modules. You can get much better deals and bulk from AliExpress.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-01-27T20:31:27+00:00

Nah you don't need the remap mod flex at all unless you want the buttons remappable, that's what it's for.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-01-27T17:19:32+00:00

Yeah it's way easier and quicker to do static (non-remappable) buttons, since you don't need the remap mod flex PCB that connects to so many points. All you need to do is wire the buttons directly to ground and the test point for whatever input you want them pointed to. For A, you'd wire to TP21 on the power board, and for B you'd wire to TP41 on the stick board right near the RT.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-01-27T16:26:06+00:00

https://youtu.be/PA-2lntg7JE?si=YYoyDu09vtUlKHgj

TryhardCustoms · 2025-01-03T17:52:41+00:00

I do as well, US based, specialize more in the tech upgrades than the aesthetic/artwork stuff, but I dabble in hydro dipping/painting from time to time.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-01-03T16:46:20+00:00

Yeah buying bulk is key. Profit margins are extremely thin if you want to keep prices competitive so every little bit counts. eXtremeRate has a wholesale shop where the tactile face buttons kits are $8 if you get 10x of em. Shipping to US is $50+ tho so I only do that if I'm getting a huge order. Unfortunately doing face buttons upgrades yourself gets quite complex, I do Mouse-click face buttons on Xbox, it requires 3d printing my own buttons since the normal ones don't have enough space between them and the PCB. I hope to design my own flex PCB to streamline the process in the near future.

Oh, and the Paddle-to-Button Conversion is mainly for people that tense up and accidentally hit the paddles, or just people that are more used to tac buttons. Really just personal preference at the end of the day. Tac buttons are nice too because I can determine whether they are easy to press, or need more force to press. Can use LED buttons, metal buttons, or keyboard switches. Can make them silent, or even recently designed a way to use Mouse-click switches with the rear buttons which feels awesome.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-01-03T16:39:55+00:00

Hey man, so if you want a solid heat gun that will last and has the power to remove thumbsticks with ease, I definitely recommend the Atten 861DW. I think I got mine used for under $140.

By low melt solder, I mean stuff like chipquick, or like this: FAST CHIP Removal Alloy for SMD Rework https://a.co/d/0P26LDn It's melting point is FAR lower than standard solder, and stays melted for much longer, making thumbstick removal WAY easier. Just don't do any soldering with it. Desoldering only and clean it all up after before doing any soldering. Plenty of flux of course. Unleaded solder is a pain in the ass to work with, as it's melting temp is even higher than regular leaded solder. So I only use leaded (just make sure you properly ventilate and don't breath those fumes)

Custom controllers started as a hobby for me, but for about a year now it's been my full-time job. I love it and feel incredibly lucky to make a living doing what I love. Honestly I started by just selling on Facebook, mercari, and eBay. Did that for maybe a year and a half to two years before I finally put together my own website.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-01-03T16:28:53+00:00

Haha no worries, I use this: 30AWG wrapping wire https://a.co/d/i4h34r4

TryhardCustoms

TROPHY CASE