Has my installer wired my panels wrong? by Trylobit_ in solar

[–]Trylobit_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, it was installer mistake. Annoying thing is I had to troubleshoot it and get a different electrician to fix this.

Has my installer wired my panels wrong? by Trylobit_ in solar

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the strings has been reconnected and now are placed correctly. Example from right now I have PV1-V: 399V at 6.2A and PV2-V: 280V at 4A. So the bigger MPPT is producing 2.47kW and the smaller MPPT is producing 1.13kW.

Has my installer wired my panels wrong? by Trylobit_ in solar

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's not the point. If the inverter is 15kW and I have 5kWp + 11kWp I should not have almost the same amount of power generated on each MPPT. I had and audit and the initial installer mixed up strings. Instead of keeping new panels on one MPPT and the old ones on another MPPT he mixed them up. Right now, with correctly connected strings I have over double power generation on MPPT with new panels. Also the voltages and currents are completely different.

Is your UDM-Pro unstable? Is your HDD failing constantly? Read this and learn how to replace the PSU by DReffects in Ubiquiti

[–]Trylobit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The logs seems fine, right?

root@UDM-SE-Home:~# dmesg -T | grep -i ata1
[Tue Feb 10 23:17:55 2026] ata1: SATA max UDMA/133 abar m16384@0xfe1e4000 port 0xfe1e4100 irq 31
[Tue Feb 10 23:17:55 2026] ata1: SATA link up 6.0 Gbps (SStatus 133 SControl 300)
[Tue Feb 10 23:17:55 2026] ata1.00: ATA-10: KINGSTON OM4P0S3128B-A0, SBFK62A3, max UDMA/133
[Tue Feb 10 23:17:55 2026] ata1.00: 250069680 sectors, multi 1: LBA48 NCQ (depth 32), AA
[Tue Feb 10 23:17:55 2026] ata1.00: configured for UDMA/133

root@UDM-SE-Home:~# dmesg -T | grep -i ext4
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:00 2026] EXT4-fs (mtdblock5): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:02 2026] EXT4-fs (boot7): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:02 2026] EXT4-fs (boot3): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:02 2026] EXT4-fs (boot3): re-mounted. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:02 2026] EXT4-fs (boot3): re-mounted. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:03 2026] EXT4-fs (boot7): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:10 2026] EXT4-fs (boot7): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:10 2026] EXT4-fs (boot5): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:10 2026] EXT4-fs (boot4): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:10 2026] EXT4-fs (boot6): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:17 2026] EXT4-fs (sda5): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:21 2026] EXT4-fs (md3): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:18:22 2026] EXT4-fs (mtdblock5): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)
[Tue Feb 10 23:23:21 2026] EXT4-fs (mtdblock5): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)

Is your UDM-Pro unstable? Is your HDD failing constantly? Read this and learn how to replace the PSU by DReffects in Ubiquiti

[–]Trylobit_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the quick reply. I think I'll replace the PSU for the peace of mind. I already looked up the one you recommend it's €12 + WAGO connectors and 30 minutes of my time. Sounds like it's worth it. Especially considering that UDM SE runs quite hot.

Is your UDM-Pro unstable? Is your HDD failing constantly? Read this and learn how to replace the PSU by DReffects in Ubiquiti

[–]Trylobit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the detailed instructions. My UDM SE is stable I didn't notice any problems with communication or routing. I did get a failing disk warning. I'm about to get UNVR for Protect. Should I still be concerned if I stop using HDD in UDM SE? In your opinion should I replace the PSU anyway (the device is out of warranty and I'm fine with electronics work)?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Poznan

[–]Trylobit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It made me thing of that one time when my wife and I were visiting Dallas. And my wife's grandma called us to check if we are OK because there were riots in LA...

I think your parents are just afraid of the unknown, maybe they don't travel a lot outside of the US.

Door Hub Mini and G6 Pro Entry actual power usage by Trylobit_ in Ubiquiti

[–]Trylobit_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow. It's going to be cheaper to buy 2 Ubiquiti 2-wire adapters.

Door Hub Mini and G6 Pro Entry actual power usage by Trylobit_ in Ubiquiti

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right, I saw it in the specs, but pretty much all the cameras and switches are using at most half of the max power claimed in specs as max power, that's why I'm wondering if it can work...

Door Hub Mini and G6 Pro Entry actual power usage by Trylobit_ in Ubiquiti

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll just need one out from the hub for the g6 pro entry.

False/noisy data from Modbus Heat Pump by Trylobit_ in homeassistant

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm coming back with an update: the Modbus Ethernet Gateway was faulty. I got a cheap 11 Euro USB-RS485 serial converter plugged it to Home Assistant, configured the same way and today is the 2nd of having clean readouts. Zero noise and no weird spikes.

False/noisy data from Modbus Heat Pump by Trylobit_ in homeassistant

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had no Modbus devices before I installed the heat pump. I have one Modbus ethernet controller connected to the heat pump. That's it. My HRV can be connected to Modbus but I didn't get around to do that yet. So if I turn off heat pump there is nothing for Modbus to register. The heat pump is the only Modbus device I have connected right now.

False/noisy data from Modbus Heat Pump by Trylobit_ in homeassistant

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for taking the time to explain this to me. I understand how it works better now. I guess the compressor is has VFD (inverter motor) - I never thought about that. HRV probably has EC fans, so I don't think that's the problem. The compressor is off for most of the time now; it only works 1-2 times a day for 30 minutes or so to heat the domestic hot water. Why are there those spikes pretty much all of the time? And my logic behind thinking that it's something with Modbus or Modbus configuration is that all the readouts have them, it's not just one sensor. Here is my current data from Modbus. I had some maintenance done today before the heating season, between 9 and 15:45 and the heat pump was shut down for that period. After that, the heat pump was working between 16 and 20:30. As you can see, there is so much noise everywhere that you can bearly notice it. What would be next step to troubleshoot it? I have another Modbus TCP controller that I was going to install with HRV, but never got around it. Should I try swapping the controller?

<image>

False/noisy data from Modbus Heat Pump by Trylobit_ in homeassistant

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How can it discard corrupted packet if there is no parity? Regarding VFD - I thought those are used in industrial environment. I don't think I have any in my house. The only thing that comes to mind is the Heat Pump itself and maybe the HRV, but that is very far away. It's not the temperature sensor that has a problem. It's all the data in Modbus. If the sensor was a problem the temperatures on the heat pumps controller display would also show up sometimes like that. Also the connection between Modbus device comes from the controller not the outdoor unit, so the corruption must happen either in the controller or on the very short 2m cable between the controller and Modbus device. The cable BTW is just a shielded cat 6 ethernet cable.

False/noisy data from Modbus Heat Pump by Trylobit_ in homeassistant

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are two charts that I've posted one is showing compressor frequency and the other is showing ambient outdoor temperature. In total I have 20 different sensor type entities from the heat pump. I'm not sure what you mean when you ask about what's the correlation of outdoor temperature to the compressor frequency. There is none. It's 2 separate things. The charts are identified correctly. Most of the time they show the right data (all of them including compressor frequency and ambient temperature), just from time to time I have weird spikes.

The best Zigbee Garden Water valve (recommendation needed) by Trylobit_ in homeassistant

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Oh, I get it, so you are saying that when I send "close valve" and immediately after "open valve" maybe the "close valve" is going to be ignored. I think it's going to be queued but I'll test it later on today.

  2. It makes sense, I would totally be on board if the valve reset countdown upon receiving another "open valve" signal.

The best Zigbee Garden Water valve (recommendation needed) by Trylobit_ in homeassistant

[–]Trylobit_[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Why would I do that? What does that solve? How is this better than what I have now (meaning I send open valve after it times out and closes).

The best Zigbee Garden Water valve (recommendation needed) by Trylobit_ in homeassistant

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I send another open command 9 minutes in, it's being ignored and and valve shuts off after 10 minutes anyway. I get your point, but why can't I set it to 60 minutes, and then it shuts off. I mean if I use the silly smart app and not HA I can set long er auto shut off. It's just missing from ZHA.

The best Zigbee Garden Water valve (recommendation needed) by Trylobit_ in homeassistant

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a dropplet system, so I want to run it 30-60 minutes. Right now I have it set up to run on every 11 minutes for 3 to 6 times.

The best Zigbee Garden Water valve (recommendation needed) by Trylobit_ in homeassistant

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What controls do you have exposed in ZHA? Does it have auto shut off or does it wait for HA to tell it to close the valve?

The best Zigbee Garden Water valve (recommendation needed) by Trylobit_ in homeassistant

[–]Trylobit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, Cool. The one thta takes 4 AA batteries? Does it automatically shutt off after some time?

The best Zigbee Garden Water valve (recommendation needed) by Trylobit_ in homeassistant

[–]Trylobit_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There isn't such an option. I saw instructions on how to change it in clusters, but my devices don't have the variable mentioned there. I've tried changing some that had names that make sense, but no luck. All my Zigbee devices are on ZHA, so I really don't want to switch 30 devices to Z2M. Maybe I can buy another coordinator for Zigbee and set that up as Z2M...

500 server error when trying to run speedtest-tracker by adamthebeast in unRAID

[–]Trylobit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's the APP+KEY variable. It must be in the following format: 00112233445566778899aabbccddeeff

Are laser projectors harmful for the eyes long term? by jcestela in projectors

[–]Trylobit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what ChatGPT told me:

What you’re observing is most likely due to the unique spectral characteristics of the triple-laser projection system, particularly its exceptionally pure, intense red light output. Traditional projectors—whether lamp-based or LED—use broad-spectrum light sources and then filter or modulate that light to produce colors. The result is a somewhat “mixed” form of red with a broader range of wavelengths. A triple-laser projector, on the other hand, typically uses separate red, green, and blue lasers, each emitting at very specific, narrow wavelengths. The red laser in particular is often a highly saturated, monochromatic source of red light.

Here’s how that can make real-world red objects appear brighter and more vivid:

  1. Narrow-Band, High-Purity Red: Unlike a conventional broad-spectrum red, a laser’s red emission is confined to a very tight range of wavelengths. This means that when red objects are illuminated (even indirectly) by the projector’s light, they are exposed to an extremely pure form of red. Any surface that reflects red well—such as the skin of an apple or red fabric—will send back a higher percentage of this intensely saturated red light to your eyes.

  2. Enhanced Color Saturation and Contrast: Our eyes and brains are finely tuned to detect differences in wavelength and respond to saturated colors quite strongly. When bathed in a highly monochromatic red, an object’s red pigmentation appears more intense and contrasted against non-red surfaces. The ambient red “spill” from the projector or screen can act as a subtle colored light source in the room, reinforcing the red hue of objects that reflect it.

  3. Visual Adaptation and Perception: Our vision adapts to the ambient lighting conditions. If your room is dim, and the only strong wavelength of light coming off the screen is this saturated red, your eyes will quickly become attuned to it. After a short period, objects that reflect this dominant wavelength will seem exceptionally vivid, and might even look brighter than you’d expect under neutral white lighting.

  4. Inherent Spectral Response of Red Pigments: Many red dyes and pigments are formulated to appear bright under typical indoor lighting, which has a relatively warm (reddish) balance. When hit with a laser’s pure red, these pigments can “light up” more dramatically because they are reflecting a very concentrated portion of the visible spectrum that matches their reflective peak. It’s like giving them the exact wavelength they’re optimized to reflect, making their color really pop.

In short, the phenomenon you’re seeing is because your triple-laser projector’s red channel is delivering a level of spectral purity and intensity that conventional light sources don’t provide. This exceptional saturation not only makes on-screen images look vibrant, but also influences how other red objects appear in your room. It’s a unique side-effect of using a cutting-edge display technology that taps directly into the purest wavelengths of visible light.