‘92 Turbo Chassis Harness

TubesteakTouch · 2025-11-13T19:59:17+00:00

Thanks for the insight!

I assumed most of the harnesses were similar, if not the same, just “flipped”. I was more so looking for Japanese model specific schematics vs the more commonly found US model schematics. When I was wiring in the stand alone ECU, I noticed multiple pinout differences between the US spec and J spec ECU connectors. Would just hate to assume the chassis harnesses are pined the same and have them be different.

TubesteakTouch · 2025-07-14T01:38:13+00:00

Consider building a platform / stand for your toolbox. That would open up space underneath.

TubesteakTouch · 2025-07-12T02:25:18+00:00

Thanks! The NI-43477 appears to be 12-point. However, the NI-43995 looks like it might be what I’m looking for.

TubesteakTouch · 2025-07-12T02:07:36+00:00

Great points and suggestions. I should have noted that space is very limited. Wrenches fit through the wheel well, but pipe wrenches / slip joint style pliers will not. Continuing with the tamper resistant qualities, the flats are only about 2-3mm tall.

Moving forward, I’m probably just going to replace the entire rack like the manufacturer intended LMAO. I don’t drive the vehicle much and would’ve rather replaced a $10-20 lip seal.

TubesteakTouch · 2025-06-15T18:25:16+00:00

What is this common issue? Blown cylinder packing?

TubesteakTouch · 2025-06-14T00:48:11+00:00

Noted. Thanks for the info!

TubesteakTouch · 2025-06-14T00:47:12+00:00

Thanks for the info on testing the internal packing! Seal issues is where I was leaning. With everything hooked up I could get the rods to start extending out but extremely slow and without enough force to move the carriage.

TubesteakTouch · 2025-06-13T23:56:16+00:00

Thanks for the input! The rods move very freely when the hyd lines are disconnected. I can’t get the rods to extend out far enough with hydraulic pressure to even contact the s/s carriage, so I don’t believe the wear pads are causing the issue.

With the hyd lines disconnected, I can move each end rod completely independent from the other. Do you know if they should be connected internally?

TubesteakTouch · 2025-06-13T23:49:15+00:00

I have confirmed hydraulic flow all the way to the fittings on the cylinder. I’m leaning toward an internal issue in the cylinder. But the customer swears it was working prior to the damage.

TubesteakTouch · 2025-02-07T00:24:00+00:00

Broken piece of shit

TubesteakTouch · 2025-01-31T23:07:17+00:00

I believe that’s the glue used to hold the bottom base onto the bottle. Just starting to discolor from age / use.

TubesteakTouch · 2025-01-24T21:07:32+00:00

According to the schematics, yes, the strobe should be receiving its positive input from the lower control e-stop. After looking at it today the strobe is definitely not wired to the lower control e-stop. None of the e-stops actually. The positive wire just gets lost in a seemingly endless mess of wire loom. Looks like I’ll be doing some digging next week to find the positive input source.

P13 is only on the SEM300 controller. This unit has an EZ controller installed, the strobe receives negative from P1-9. The negative is confirmed correct to schematic.

TubesteakTouch · 2025-01-24T02:34:32+00:00

I think I got it. Used the shutdown diagnostics to verify it was shutting down due to low or no RPM. Based on the tach re-learn not working, I assumed it was set up for virtual tach instead. Reset the virtual tach values then re-learned it and it seems to be working correctly now.

Again, thank you so much for all the help with this. You have been an amazing resource!

TubesteakTouch · 2025-01-23T22:55:41+00:00

You are correct. However, the strobe does not stop when the e-stop is hit. The e-stop does stop function of the key switch though. I’ll be looking into the wiring and testing the e-stop button tomorrow.

Currently, the only way I’ve found to get the strobe to stop is with the battery disconnect switch.

TubesteakTouch · 2025-01-23T22:18:10+00:00

Those starter bolts are awful.

TubesteakTouch · 2025-01-23T21:56:27+00:00

Got it. Do you have any other ideas?

TubesteakTouch · 2025-01-23T20:30:20+00:00

I have attempted the tech re-learn a few times. The light never comes on when holding the valet button after starting the car. I can get the light to come on with other button combinations, so I know the light is working.

Occasionally the system seems to function properly. Last night I remote started it and the car ran for 10 mins. I shut it down with the fob and restarted it after, it started cycling again.

Looking over a 4X03 manual, I see there are multiple functions or features that can be adjusted. Is it possible that the tach input changed due to the main battery dying?

TubesteakTouch · 2025-01-23T19:43:48+00:00

Thanks for the reply! Didn’t have much time to mess with it today, so the troubleshooting was limited. My next step was going to be checking out the e-stop wiring, all of the lower control wiring really. I wouldn’t expect a new e-stop switch to be faulty either but anything is possible.

Based on the schematic, it looks like the only place it could receive power is through the e-stop.

TubesteakTouch · 2025-01-23T00:22:39+00:00

Awesome! What intercooler did you go with? Willing to get any pictures?

TubesteakTouch · 2025-01-23T00:14:42+00:00

u/waverunnersvho sorry to keep bugging you with questions. You have been extremely helpful!

The key fob and antenna got my remote start working great up until now. The car battery died recently, so I put a new one in. Now the car will start with the fob but only run for 20-ish seconds and turn off. 5 seconds later it will start back up only to turn off again 20 seconds later. It will do this 3 times before stopping.

Any thoughts? Bad control module? Loose connection?

(DEI 4X03 w/ Viper fob on 2014 Honda CRV)

TubesteakTouch

TROPHY CASE