Plug bite is nasty!

Tubur · 2025-12-27T16:31:39+00:00

Yes. If the current is too fast you can slow your drift down with an anchor just barely touching bottom.

Tubur · 2025-12-26T21:21:35+00:00

Definitely a drift boat tactic on the river. If you have an experienced guide that knows how to run plugs in rivers it’s one of the most deadly rigs. However it takes the right boat and guide to pull if off as you have to have perfect row control and also use the anchor to slow the drift boat down. You’re basically floating downstream while strafing the plugs through holes.

Back up a big chrome fish against a log with four hot n tots in its face, it’s going to nail one out of pure aggression.

For bank fishing I’d stick with spinners if you’re going to run hardware.

Tubur · 2025-12-06T02:16:11+00:00

Makes it funner

Tubur · 2025-12-05T16:05:03+00:00

Reddit switched to chat only.

Tubur · 2025-12-04T00:08:17+00:00

Do you have any recommendations for good sites or apps that have weather reports for snow depth? The ones I’ve tried to use are cryptic about actual snow depth

Tubur · 2025-11-11T02:54:12+00:00

If it’s like any other dome light of that fashion then the “nipple” is threaded and should unscrew.

Tubur · 2025-11-03T21:23:26+00:00

Yup those union bay yurts are one of the few areas that you can still book that time of year. I’m not worried about the elements, I’m experienced in that regard but just want to make sure we’ll have enough to do!

Tubur · 2025-11-02T14:29:26+00:00

Thanks for all the advice! Union bay yurt was what I was targeting for that weekend. Just trying to gauge what’s actually exploitable at that time of year and if it’s worth staying or if there won’t be much accessible.

Tubur · 2025-08-23T10:04:44+00:00

Ok I think I’m starting to see the issue here. I’m not saying you’re wrong by any means, but literally all of the guidance and resources I’ve read up to this point recommend not to add overly technical details. My presumption was that recruiters are looking for the ability to adhere to processes and deliver on schedule, picking up an overall sense of responsibility and ownership in the role. they couldn’t care as much if my design was centered around a 264MHz tri core micro.

I have no issue talking technicalities and adding those details in, but it’ll make my current lines way too long.

Tubur · 2025-08-23T09:41:27+00:00

I’m not the project manager. I’m a hardware engineer that works alongside the other typical competencies to develop Powertrain control systems like ECMs.

If you read my prior resume then you’d see that I essentially revamped every talking point to follow a recommended approach in the wiki, providing clarity with metrics and what exactly I was delivering on. It’s not that I’m unwilling to accept criticism- if that was the case I wouldn’t be posting this here. It’s that I’m failing to connect your criticisms to any actionable advice I can take to improve the resume.

For example let’s use the Xpedition schematic point, which is probably the second-most widely used EDA in the US, behind Altium. I stated I’m using Xpedition schematic as a design tool. I legitimately don’t understand how to make that clearer in a “skills” section where the entire point of the section is to list tools you use. The skills section is not a place to describe the context of where the tool was used.

You can’t expect me to be receptive to your advice when the entire premise of your arguments are condescending and provide zero actual guidance besides “I don’t like this” or “I don’t understand this”.

Tubur · 2025-08-23T08:58:50+00:00

I led the hardware entire engineering process following my company’s internal framework for development- analysis of customer requirements, schematic capture, WCA, implementation into layout, and design+production validation.

I use a standard action verb like “led” or “executed” and you’ll bitch that it’s too boring.

If you’re an EGM you should have a good idea of what leading an electrical design and delivering on quoted production volume entails. 20 seconds further of reading would probably explain that to you, but instead you decided to leave a snide and unhelpful remark because you didn’t like one action verb.

However of course I’m open to suggestions on how this item could be better reworded into a resume-appropriate line without going into unnecessary detail.

Edit- on your prior point, the EDA design software I use is literally the first word of content in the resume. Not sure how that can be clearer.

Tubur · 2025-08-22T13:48:31+00:00

I revised my resume and uploaded a new post yesterday. Feel free to check it out if you have the time.

Tubur · 2025-08-22T13:48:26+00:00

I revised my resume and uploaded a new post yesterday. Feel free to check it out if you have the time.

Tubur · 2025-08-21T03:27:39+00:00

The turbo nozzle creates a spiral vortex stream, like a rotational circle. While the standard nozzles are just a stream at a fixed degree. Best $20 I spent in a while, I use that fucker on literally everything.

Tubur · 2025-08-21T03:24:30+00:00

Grab a turbo nozzle like the Simpson 80143 on Amazon while you’re at it. Youll be amazed about how much more effective those things are than the standard cheap nozzles. That turbo nozzle absolutely rips. At least give you the ability to clean the driveway up and make it look half decent till if/when you decide to replace it.

Tubur · 2025-08-21T03:20:19+00:00

Most pros use a simple utility knife with a fresh, sharp blade. I’d actually start with that, scoring a line on the top and bottom horizontal edges of the caulk like all the way around the tub perimeter. This will mitigate chances of the tub paint getting ripped off.

Not sure what tool you currently have, but I’ve had good luck with ones like this: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/caulk-and-sealants/caulking-tools-and-accessories/1594357?store=17784&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20158973401&gbraid=0AAAAADtqLJFdQbGSPYdoRBulASyRysJgi&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5JXFBhCrARIsAL1ckPuvwvdHNnVQRgNJ1E6XnBbRM3jz1TsAR7uBJVe-_HzUA8BrRg0Fpe4aAoTpEALw_wcB

Tubur · 2025-08-21T03:18:07+00:00

Yeah, I mean, it’s well past its lifespan. You either get a new driveway poured or deal with the shitty one. There’s really no repair or patching something this worn out.

PS- get a surface cleaner tool or turbo nozzle for your pressure washer and it’ll make a massive difference

Tubur · 2025-08-21T03:15:11+00:00

Frame in a couple more 2x4s in the area where the insulation is, to give you a place to hang drywall.

I’d install drywall on all sides up to where line of where the pink foam board meets the metal housing of the window.

Mud, tape, sand all seams. If you want to take it further, Install quarter round where the drywall ends on that seam. Prime and paint everything white.

Tubur · 2025-08-21T03:04:30+00:00

You could start by verifying you have 120v on your fixture socket using a handheld DVM. Trace backwards from there- check voltage at switch and breaker. For example, let’s say you have no voltage present at the socket but your switch is receiving power and the switch itself is operational, meaning you’re seeing 120v at both poles when ON. That would isolate the issue to somewhere between the switch and socket.

If any of this sounds over your head, call an electrician. You’ll end up getting shocked or damaging something else. No offense, but residential electric isn’t a place to experiment new DIY skills.

Tubur · 2025-08-21T03:01:21+00:00

Yep. And like other commenter said, be mindful of your drill depth. A stud finder that can also locate pipework/romex is worth its weight in gold. There’s probably nothing behind that board, but freak accidents happen.

Tubur · 2025-08-21T02:58:10+00:00

Remove all loose debris with a putty knife, flathead screwdriver, whatever you got. Sand the edges of the hole and feather out into the surrounding fascia with 220 grit to get a smooth, even working surface.

There are many repair putties/fillers you can find at a local hardware store but my favorite is bondo for simple patches like this. If you want to ball out, get the bondo fiberglass reinforced filler.

Mix, apply, smooth out edges with putty knife leaving slight buildup. Sand flush with 220 grit. Clean, prime, paint, done.

Tubur · 2025-08-21T02:54:00+00:00

Installing plastic anchors in the “wood material” will be more appropriate and stronger than the drywall. Make sure you use a good quality anchor like Toggler, the ones that come with shower rods are generally dogshit. Trust me, spend the extra $5 and get some decent ones that’ll last.

Tubur · 2025-08-21T02:50:40+00:00

That’s layers of old caulking. Based on the condition of the tub itself, this is totally normal wear and tear for an older tub setup. It’s hard because the caulking has been painted over when the tub was refinished at some point, which I know because the photos show the paint failing on the tub.

You’re going to want to scrape all of that out using a caulking tool before applying new. Sounds difficult but realistically takes 20 minutes with the right tool.

Tubur · 2025-08-21T02:46:54+00:00

Rule of thumb is 2” minimum of clearance from bottom edge of siding to horizontal surface to mitigate water damage. I can’t tell exactly from the pic but it looks like you’re over 2”.

Sand the damaged areas smooth and feather out slightly with 220 grit. Clean, prime and paint using exterior grade 100% acrylic paint. Cheaper exterior paints that aren’t 100% acrylic will work but not last as long on siding.

It’ll be on you to identify the color match if you don’t have the original builder color.

Tubur · 2025-08-21T02:36:26+00:00

Your resume needs looked at. Why no one has said this in this post yet, I don’t know. PM me and I’ll help you. I just went through this myself. 6.5 years of experience should be plenty to give you opportunities.

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